Food starts with Mapo Tofu
Chapter 611 The Buddha Jumps Over The Wall
Chapter 611 The Buddha Jumps Over The Wall
Chen Nian nodded. When cleaning just now, Chen Nian intentionally or unintentionally memorized the proportions of various meats.
Although it may not be useful, but if it is useless, it is a big deal and forget it.
But it turns out that Chen Nian was not mistaken.
The reason why the white color appears when the soup is boiled is because the fat in the bones and meat is emulsified during the heating process, forming stable fat droplets suspended in the water, so the soup becomes milky white.
After putting it in the pot, continue to cook on the fire.
But when Daguo was cooking the soup, Mr. Huo started to tell Chen Nian again.
"Actually, there is no fish in the original Buddha Jumping Over the Wall, but when making this dish, I feel that if the fish can be fried and put in, the taste of the soup will be softer and the color will be more beautiful."
Chen Nian nodded, this should be some minor changes of Mr. Huo.
The reason why the version with crucian carp is now used as a common practice is that Mr. Huo must have concluded that it is better to do so based on the usual comparison, and Chen Nian intends to learn this way.
There are actually no fixed methods for many dishes.
If there are more suitable ingredients for hanging soup, they can also be added.
No one said that chicken and duck must be used only for hanging soup. In fact, in order to make the soup, pig skin, pig's trotters, and pork are also added separately.
"Master, when shall we release the crucian carp?"
Chen Nian asked again.
"Wait for about an hour." Huo Yang said.
Chen Nian kept listening to Master Huo's words that he was not used to the time, but thinking about it, usually or cross talk gives people the feeling of gentleness and elegance, and what he wears is either a suit or a chef's uniform, so it gave Chen Nian a kind of Huo Nian. Mr. is a modern illusion.
But in fact, Mr. Huo was also born in the Qing Dynasty.
It's just that compared to most people, he was exposed to the outside world earlier.
During these two hours, the two also sat and rested.
Chatted up the chat.
When preparing Buddha Jumping Over the Wall these two days, they don't need to cook for other guests.
This is also to allow them to concentrate on making this top dish.
Mr. Huo even went back to his room to take a nap.
About an hour and a half later, Mr. Huo returned to the kitchen fully dressed.
"Okay, let's deal with the crucian carp and put it in the pan to fry."
Chen Nian nodded, and then took out the crucian carp in the basin and started killing the fish.
Now aged fish are quite proficient in killing fish.
Compared with the first time I killed fish and even kept apologizing to the fish, the old man now has no psychological pressure, and what he does is this line of work, so killing is definitely inevitable.
Carefully handle the four crucian carp.
Then start to heat the pan with oil, and then crucian carp.
There was a stabbing sound, and it could be seen that the skin on the edge of the crucian carp's body had begun to tighten.
The muscles of fish itself are mostly composed of fast-twitch fibers, which are shorter and thinner than the large, slow-twitch fibers found in most land animals, so they are more easily broken down by the heat of cooking.
So it was only fried for a while, and after being turned over for a long time, the side that was fried just now has turned golden.
When both sides are fried until golden, the old crucian carp will be put into the earthen pot to continue cooking.
"Wait a little longer. Our task today is just to cook this pot of soup. You don't have to think about anything else. You can sum it up yourself later. It may be half a year before you do this level of Buddha Jumping Wall again."
"Good master." Chen Nian replied.
The soup is still boiling in the pot, although it is wrapped in lotus leaves and tied with ropes.
But if you get close, you can hear the gurgling sound inside.
The voice sounded so healing.
Old age seems to have smelled it.
All of a sudden, aging became more and more expected.
I don't know what the taste of the Buddha Jumping Wall that has been painstakingly prepared will be like?
But he also knew there was no rush.
The so-called slow work produces meticulous work.
In this way, it boiled for about an hour or so.
Mr. Huo suddenly asked Chen Nian to open the jar, then he took a wooden stick and started to stir it.
"Master." Looking at this scene, Chen Nian felt extremely novel.
Never seen this kind of operation before.
Moreover, the master stirred it very vigorously, and Chen Nian stood beside him, watching the soup inside getting thicker and thicker.
At this moment, he felt that he suddenly understood.
"Master, do you want to break up the contents and fully blend them into the soup?"
"Yes." Huo Yang nodded, "If you want the soup to be thick, you have to do it this way, because we want the soup that Buddha Jumps Over the Wall will finally present to be colloidal, so it's different from some dishes that pay attention to the clear and delicious soup bottom Yes, the thicker the soup here, the better."
Before aging, it was only regarded as Buddha jumping over the wall, and it was made entirely by the rareness of the ingredients.
But the more it ages, the more I realize that this dish is actually very technical.
The main thing is the temperature of the fire.
Moreover, it is necessary to be very familiar with each ingredient used, so that the ingredients can be used to their full potential and their taste can be cooked to the extreme.
Just keep stirring.
The soup is getting thicker and thicker, with a faint golden yellow chicken oil floating on it, with a little bit of pearl.
"All right."
After a while, Mr. Huo finally said, "Put the cloth on the basin, I'm going to filter the soup."
Following an order, Chen Nian quickly took the cage cloth and pulled the two sides with his hands.
Huo Yang began to scoop out the soup in the earthen jar with a water ladle made of ceramics.
The chicken, duck and other ingredients that had been smashed into pieces were left on the cage cloth.
But at such a close distance, Chen Nian smelled the rising fragrance: "It smells so good."
Can't help but sigh with emotion.
"Is it delicious, let's make two bowls and taste it later." Mr. Huo said with a smile.
"Master... is this okay?" Chen Nian asked uncertainly.
"Of course." Mr. Huo scooped out all the soup in the urn while talking.
Chen Nian struggled to lift the cage cloth, and held it for a while before taking it away.
"Such a big pot of soup, it's all the essence." Huo Yang said, "Not to mention, the value of this big pot of soup alone is already very expensive, not to mention that we will put in more soup later. Expensive material."
"The next abalone is worth all the previous ones."
While aging was processing the remaining ingredients, Mr. Huo had already taken two bowls from the side, put some salt on the bottom of the bowls, and poured the soup into the bowls.
I chopped up some shallots.
Sprinkle a handful of shallots in.
"Okay, let's have some soup after being busy for so long." Mr. Huo said.
Aging put down the material.
Pick up the bowl and take a closer look. The golden and round oil droplets are like golden beans floating on the suet-like white jade soup, and decorated with green onion, just like a landscape painting.
The steaming heat on the surface seems to embellish the bowl like a fairyland in a fairyland.
The mellow smell hits the face, as if the air is full of delicious taste.
Chen Nian blew lightly to blow away the oil droplets on the surface, and gently went up to take a sip.
The soup dipped into the mouth finely.
At this moment, it was as if he suddenly entered the bathhouse from the sub-zero outdoor, and he took off his clothes and soaked in the pool.
It seemed that after a busy day's work, Shu Tai wiped it from forehead to neck with a hot towel immediately after returning to the room.
There is a rich and mellow fragrance between the lips and teeth.
It's a somewhat conflicting sense, but aging is sure to taste it.
After swallowing, the mouth and tongue are full of aftertaste.
"It's such a beautiful thing to drink soup." Chen Nian couldn't help but sigh with emotion.
He took a small sip just now, and soon, Chen Nian blew into the bowl again.
Another gulp followed.
This bite is even more satisfying than before.
And chopped scallions also entered the mouth, with a simple and elegant fragrance, just like a girl in white with a small flower on her head.
Finish the soup in threes and fives.
Chen Nian suddenly began to regret why he had to drink so fast.
Why not take a closer look at each product.
"Many people actually think that Buddha jumping over the wall is a soup to the end, but in fact Fujian cuisine is about ten changes in one soup." Huo Yang looked at Chen Nian and said.
This voice pulled Chen Nian out of his remorse.
"Master, what is a soup and a change?"
"For example, let's say that we are going to make Buddha jump over the wall. Now it is thick soup, which tastes very mellow, but this is only the first step. Next, we need to use wine to turn this thick soup into clear soup, and then remove the oil. Remove the dregs and extract the golden soup from the clear soup."
Chen Nian sounds fantastic.
I began to think about what kind of operation and principle this is in my mind.
"Okay, let's go back and think about it slowly. I told you too much today and you can't remember it. We're here today. It's not too early. Let's go down and eat something later and rest." Mr. Huo Said.
After Chen Nian heard this, he didn't want to stalk him and ask again.
Anyway, we will know tomorrow.
At this moment, Chen Nian suddenly looked out the window, and it was already dark outside.
Only the lights on the cruise ship shine to bring the light.
After helping clean up the kitchen, Chen Nian went downstairs to eat a bowl of Yangchun noodles.
Come here again this time, the chef here is more polite to the aging.
Although now Chen Nian has changed from a chef to a helper, but that is Mr. Huo's helper.
After dinner, Chen Nian returned to the house.
Today, I didn't even bother to read the book. Chen Nian came to the table after washing up. While recalling part of the practice of Buddha jumping over the wall that he experienced today, he wrote it down in a small notebook.
After this time, if you do Buddha Jump Over the Wall in the future, you can only do the castrated version.
If you want to do this level of Buddha Jumping Over the Wall again, you will really have to wait another half a year as Mr. Huo said.
After memorizing it, Chen Nian put down the pen and paper.
Turning off the light, I began to think about what Mr. Huo said about using wine to turn soup into clear soup...
Lipidation reaction?
Chen Nian guessed in his heart that the reaction process between carboxylic acid and alcohol is generally that the hydroxyl group in the carboxylic acid molecule combines with the hydrogen atom of the carboxyl group in the alcohol molecule to form water, and the rest combine with each other to form an ester.
"It should mean that."
Chen Nian knows the general principle, but he is not sure whether it is the case of Buddha jumping over the wall.
After thinking for a while, Chen Nian fell asleep.
In this way, Chen Nian came to Mr. Huo's kitchen again early the next morning.
And Mr. Huo has already arrived.
"Coming?" Mr. Huo saw that Chen Nian was in good spirits, so he knew that Chen Nian had a good rest last night.
"Master." Chen Nian greeted respectfully.
"Go ahead, we have to do a good job today, first take out the meat from yesterday." Mr. Huo nodded, and quickly got into work.
Chen Nian likes this character.
Reckless.
After taking out yesterday's ingredients, Mr. Huo put the soup into the crock again.
"This time, only put in the ingredients related to the chicken, and don't need to add anything else. You can add a piece of yellow rock sugar later, and you can withdraw cash." Master Huo instructed Chen Nian to add ingredients into the crock pot, and started to heat it himself. Put a lot of oil in the pot, and then put the ginger slices in it to fry.
After frying for a little bit of aroma, star anise and cinnamon leaves were added to it.
After all the seasoning spices are fried thoroughly, take them all out and put them in a crock pot and start to simmer slowly.
"It will simmer for about an hour or so."
"Apprentice, you go to my room. There is a big jar of wine under my bed. Bring me that jar of wine." After speaking, Mr. Huo took out the key from his pocket and threw it to Chen Nian.
After Chen Nian took the key, he went downstairs to Mr. Huo's room.
“What a big room!”
It wasn't the first time Chen Nian came to Mr. Huo's place, but every time he saw it, he would express his envy by real name.
This room has more than 150 square meters, a huge living room, a huge bedroom and a huge study room, which is full of books.
While looking around, he found a jar from under the bed.
Looking at the seal above, it is obvious that this wine is some years old.
After drinking heavily, Chen Nian picked up the jar of wine.
When I came to the door, I put it down again, and after locking the door, I picked up the wine and went upstairs.
"Master, what are we going to do with the wine?" Chen Nian asked curiously.
"Fried wine." Mr. Huo replied, but found that Chen Nian couldn't understand, so he explained again: "This is an old wine from Fujian. You should have used it in cooking before."
Chen Nian nodded. He had indeed used rice wine from Fujian before.
"But master, how do you stir-fry wine?" Chen Nian asked again.
"Pour the wine into a jar later, and then light a fire to boil all the wine in it."
Hearing this, Chen Nian has overturned all the things he thought yesterday.
If you want to use fire to light the wine, the ethanol inside will turn into carbon dioxide and water after burning.
用化学式表达就是C2H5OH+3O2=2CO2↑+3H2O
In this way, the purpose of adding rice wine is not to use wine, but to use other substances in it?
Generally speaking, this kind of wine fermented with food contains amino acids, vitamins, sugar and other substances in addition to alcohol.
The combination of these things is actually the mellow taste that many people call grain wine or grain vinegar. Of course, this alcohol is not a noun like ethanol alcohol, but an aged and mellow alcohol. adjective.
I am hungry, I want to drink stewed chicken soup
(End of this chapter)
Chen Nian nodded. When cleaning just now, Chen Nian intentionally or unintentionally memorized the proportions of various meats.
Although it may not be useful, but if it is useless, it is a big deal and forget it.
But it turns out that Chen Nian was not mistaken.
The reason why the white color appears when the soup is boiled is because the fat in the bones and meat is emulsified during the heating process, forming stable fat droplets suspended in the water, so the soup becomes milky white.
After putting it in the pot, continue to cook on the fire.
But when Daguo was cooking the soup, Mr. Huo started to tell Chen Nian again.
"Actually, there is no fish in the original Buddha Jumping Over the Wall, but when making this dish, I feel that if the fish can be fried and put in, the taste of the soup will be softer and the color will be more beautiful."
Chen Nian nodded, this should be some minor changes of Mr. Huo.
The reason why the version with crucian carp is now used as a common practice is that Mr. Huo must have concluded that it is better to do so based on the usual comparison, and Chen Nian intends to learn this way.
There are actually no fixed methods for many dishes.
If there are more suitable ingredients for hanging soup, they can also be added.
No one said that chicken and duck must be used only for hanging soup. In fact, in order to make the soup, pig skin, pig's trotters, and pork are also added separately.
"Master, when shall we release the crucian carp?"
Chen Nian asked again.
"Wait for about an hour." Huo Yang said.
Chen Nian kept listening to Master Huo's words that he was not used to the time, but thinking about it, usually or cross talk gives people the feeling of gentleness and elegance, and what he wears is either a suit or a chef's uniform, so it gave Chen Nian a kind of Huo Nian. Mr. is a modern illusion.
But in fact, Mr. Huo was also born in the Qing Dynasty.
It's just that compared to most people, he was exposed to the outside world earlier.
During these two hours, the two also sat and rested.
Chatted up the chat.
When preparing Buddha Jumping Over the Wall these two days, they don't need to cook for other guests.
This is also to allow them to concentrate on making this top dish.
Mr. Huo even went back to his room to take a nap.
About an hour and a half later, Mr. Huo returned to the kitchen fully dressed.
"Okay, let's deal with the crucian carp and put it in the pan to fry."
Chen Nian nodded, and then took out the crucian carp in the basin and started killing the fish.
Now aged fish are quite proficient in killing fish.
Compared with the first time I killed fish and even kept apologizing to the fish, the old man now has no psychological pressure, and what he does is this line of work, so killing is definitely inevitable.
Carefully handle the four crucian carp.
Then start to heat the pan with oil, and then crucian carp.
There was a stabbing sound, and it could be seen that the skin on the edge of the crucian carp's body had begun to tighten.
The muscles of fish itself are mostly composed of fast-twitch fibers, which are shorter and thinner than the large, slow-twitch fibers found in most land animals, so they are more easily broken down by the heat of cooking.
So it was only fried for a while, and after being turned over for a long time, the side that was fried just now has turned golden.
When both sides are fried until golden, the old crucian carp will be put into the earthen pot to continue cooking.
"Wait a little longer. Our task today is just to cook this pot of soup. You don't have to think about anything else. You can sum it up yourself later. It may be half a year before you do this level of Buddha Jumping Wall again."
"Good master." Chen Nian replied.
The soup is still boiling in the pot, although it is wrapped in lotus leaves and tied with ropes.
But if you get close, you can hear the gurgling sound inside.
The voice sounded so healing.
Old age seems to have smelled it.
All of a sudden, aging became more and more expected.
I don't know what the taste of the Buddha Jumping Wall that has been painstakingly prepared will be like?
But he also knew there was no rush.
The so-called slow work produces meticulous work.
In this way, it boiled for about an hour or so.
Mr. Huo suddenly asked Chen Nian to open the jar, then he took a wooden stick and started to stir it.
"Master." Looking at this scene, Chen Nian felt extremely novel.
Never seen this kind of operation before.
Moreover, the master stirred it very vigorously, and Chen Nian stood beside him, watching the soup inside getting thicker and thicker.
At this moment, he felt that he suddenly understood.
"Master, do you want to break up the contents and fully blend them into the soup?"
"Yes." Huo Yang nodded, "If you want the soup to be thick, you have to do it this way, because we want the soup that Buddha Jumps Over the Wall will finally present to be colloidal, so it's different from some dishes that pay attention to the clear and delicious soup bottom Yes, the thicker the soup here, the better."
Before aging, it was only regarded as Buddha jumping over the wall, and it was made entirely by the rareness of the ingredients.
But the more it ages, the more I realize that this dish is actually very technical.
The main thing is the temperature of the fire.
Moreover, it is necessary to be very familiar with each ingredient used, so that the ingredients can be used to their full potential and their taste can be cooked to the extreme.
Just keep stirring.
The soup is getting thicker and thicker, with a faint golden yellow chicken oil floating on it, with a little bit of pearl.
"All right."
After a while, Mr. Huo finally said, "Put the cloth on the basin, I'm going to filter the soup."
Following an order, Chen Nian quickly took the cage cloth and pulled the two sides with his hands.
Huo Yang began to scoop out the soup in the earthen jar with a water ladle made of ceramics.
The chicken, duck and other ingredients that had been smashed into pieces were left on the cage cloth.
But at such a close distance, Chen Nian smelled the rising fragrance: "It smells so good."
Can't help but sigh with emotion.
"Is it delicious, let's make two bowls and taste it later." Mr. Huo said with a smile.
"Master... is this okay?" Chen Nian asked uncertainly.
"Of course." Mr. Huo scooped out all the soup in the urn while talking.
Chen Nian struggled to lift the cage cloth, and held it for a while before taking it away.
"Such a big pot of soup, it's all the essence." Huo Yang said, "Not to mention, the value of this big pot of soup alone is already very expensive, not to mention that we will put in more soup later. Expensive material."
"The next abalone is worth all the previous ones."
While aging was processing the remaining ingredients, Mr. Huo had already taken two bowls from the side, put some salt on the bottom of the bowls, and poured the soup into the bowls.
I chopped up some shallots.
Sprinkle a handful of shallots in.
"Okay, let's have some soup after being busy for so long." Mr. Huo said.
Aging put down the material.
Pick up the bowl and take a closer look. The golden and round oil droplets are like golden beans floating on the suet-like white jade soup, and decorated with green onion, just like a landscape painting.
The steaming heat on the surface seems to embellish the bowl like a fairyland in a fairyland.
The mellow smell hits the face, as if the air is full of delicious taste.
Chen Nian blew lightly to blow away the oil droplets on the surface, and gently went up to take a sip.
The soup dipped into the mouth finely.
At this moment, it was as if he suddenly entered the bathhouse from the sub-zero outdoor, and he took off his clothes and soaked in the pool.
It seemed that after a busy day's work, Shu Tai wiped it from forehead to neck with a hot towel immediately after returning to the room.
There is a rich and mellow fragrance between the lips and teeth.
It's a somewhat conflicting sense, but aging is sure to taste it.
After swallowing, the mouth and tongue are full of aftertaste.
"It's such a beautiful thing to drink soup." Chen Nian couldn't help but sigh with emotion.
He took a small sip just now, and soon, Chen Nian blew into the bowl again.
Another gulp followed.
This bite is even more satisfying than before.
And chopped scallions also entered the mouth, with a simple and elegant fragrance, just like a girl in white with a small flower on her head.
Finish the soup in threes and fives.
Chen Nian suddenly began to regret why he had to drink so fast.
Why not take a closer look at each product.
"Many people actually think that Buddha jumping over the wall is a soup to the end, but in fact Fujian cuisine is about ten changes in one soup." Huo Yang looked at Chen Nian and said.
This voice pulled Chen Nian out of his remorse.
"Master, what is a soup and a change?"
"For example, let's say that we are going to make Buddha jump over the wall. Now it is thick soup, which tastes very mellow, but this is only the first step. Next, we need to use wine to turn this thick soup into clear soup, and then remove the oil. Remove the dregs and extract the golden soup from the clear soup."
Chen Nian sounds fantastic.
I began to think about what kind of operation and principle this is in my mind.
"Okay, let's go back and think about it slowly. I told you too much today and you can't remember it. We're here today. It's not too early. Let's go down and eat something later and rest." Mr. Huo Said.
After Chen Nian heard this, he didn't want to stalk him and ask again.
Anyway, we will know tomorrow.
At this moment, Chen Nian suddenly looked out the window, and it was already dark outside.
Only the lights on the cruise ship shine to bring the light.
After helping clean up the kitchen, Chen Nian went downstairs to eat a bowl of Yangchun noodles.
Come here again this time, the chef here is more polite to the aging.
Although now Chen Nian has changed from a chef to a helper, but that is Mr. Huo's helper.
After dinner, Chen Nian returned to the house.
Today, I didn't even bother to read the book. Chen Nian came to the table after washing up. While recalling part of the practice of Buddha jumping over the wall that he experienced today, he wrote it down in a small notebook.
After this time, if you do Buddha Jump Over the Wall in the future, you can only do the castrated version.
If you want to do this level of Buddha Jumping Over the Wall again, you will really have to wait another half a year as Mr. Huo said.
After memorizing it, Chen Nian put down the pen and paper.
Turning off the light, I began to think about what Mr. Huo said about using wine to turn soup into clear soup...
Lipidation reaction?
Chen Nian guessed in his heart that the reaction process between carboxylic acid and alcohol is generally that the hydroxyl group in the carboxylic acid molecule combines with the hydrogen atom of the carboxyl group in the alcohol molecule to form water, and the rest combine with each other to form an ester.
"It should mean that."
Chen Nian knows the general principle, but he is not sure whether it is the case of Buddha jumping over the wall.
After thinking for a while, Chen Nian fell asleep.
In this way, Chen Nian came to Mr. Huo's kitchen again early the next morning.
And Mr. Huo has already arrived.
"Coming?" Mr. Huo saw that Chen Nian was in good spirits, so he knew that Chen Nian had a good rest last night.
"Master." Chen Nian greeted respectfully.
"Go ahead, we have to do a good job today, first take out the meat from yesterday." Mr. Huo nodded, and quickly got into work.
Chen Nian likes this character.
Reckless.
After taking out yesterday's ingredients, Mr. Huo put the soup into the crock again.
"This time, only put in the ingredients related to the chicken, and don't need to add anything else. You can add a piece of yellow rock sugar later, and you can withdraw cash." Master Huo instructed Chen Nian to add ingredients into the crock pot, and started to heat it himself. Put a lot of oil in the pot, and then put the ginger slices in it to fry.
After frying for a little bit of aroma, star anise and cinnamon leaves were added to it.
After all the seasoning spices are fried thoroughly, take them all out and put them in a crock pot and start to simmer slowly.
"It will simmer for about an hour or so."
"Apprentice, you go to my room. There is a big jar of wine under my bed. Bring me that jar of wine." After speaking, Mr. Huo took out the key from his pocket and threw it to Chen Nian.
After Chen Nian took the key, he went downstairs to Mr. Huo's room.
“What a big room!”
It wasn't the first time Chen Nian came to Mr. Huo's place, but every time he saw it, he would express his envy by real name.
This room has more than 150 square meters, a huge living room, a huge bedroom and a huge study room, which is full of books.
While looking around, he found a jar from under the bed.
Looking at the seal above, it is obvious that this wine is some years old.
After drinking heavily, Chen Nian picked up the jar of wine.
When I came to the door, I put it down again, and after locking the door, I picked up the wine and went upstairs.
"Master, what are we going to do with the wine?" Chen Nian asked curiously.
"Fried wine." Mr. Huo replied, but found that Chen Nian couldn't understand, so he explained again: "This is an old wine from Fujian. You should have used it in cooking before."
Chen Nian nodded. He had indeed used rice wine from Fujian before.
"But master, how do you stir-fry wine?" Chen Nian asked again.
"Pour the wine into a jar later, and then light a fire to boil all the wine in it."
Hearing this, Chen Nian has overturned all the things he thought yesterday.
If you want to use fire to light the wine, the ethanol inside will turn into carbon dioxide and water after burning.
用化学式表达就是C2H5OH+3O2=2CO2↑+3H2O
In this way, the purpose of adding rice wine is not to use wine, but to use other substances in it?
Generally speaking, this kind of wine fermented with food contains amino acids, vitamins, sugar and other substances in addition to alcohol.
The combination of these things is actually the mellow taste that many people call grain wine or grain vinegar. Of course, this alcohol is not a noun like ethanol alcohol, but an aged and mellow alcohol. adjective.
I am hungry, I want to drink stewed chicken soup
(End of this chapter)
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