Food starts with Mapo Tofu
Chapter 743
Chapter 743 Gua Yan Sui Belly
The last dish Chen Nian prepared for them was called Gua Yan Sui Du, which was also a combination of two other non-spicy Sichuan dishes.
Clear soup with melons and swallows and harvested wheat ear tripe.
The previous dish of melon and swallow in clear soup has been learned before aging, and this dish of harvested wheat ear belly is what I came into contact with when learning mapo tofu at the beginning of aging.
In the 70s, a man named Chen Shengde made this dish when he was fighting with others, and then put it in his own store for sale.
So for this dish, Chen Nian went out and bought a freshly cut winter melon and a piece of pork belly.
The aged pork belly is not so fat. After all, it is to be used in the soup, so if it is too fat, it will affect the taste and taste a little greasy.
Pork belly has also been cleaned before aging, so it can be used directly at this time.
In addition, special clear soup is needed. This kind of clear soup is still somewhat different from high soup, but the clear soup used to make this dish is similar to the clear soup used to make boiled cabbage.
But this clear soup is already made in the afternoon.
He added ham, chicken, duck and elbow to it.
At the same time, scallions and ginger were put in to remove the fishy smell of the raw materials themselves. After three hours of cooking, all the ingredients that were put in before were taken out.
At this time, put the minced lean minced pork into the water to stir it up, and then pour it into the pot for clear soup.
Pork is used to make clear soup. The minced pork will not spoil the taste of this pot of soup. On the contrary, the deliciousness of pork can be further integrated into the soup. At the same time, pork can also absorb impurities in the soup.
After repeating this three times, the impurities are filtered out, and the remaining soup is clear soup.
The soup produced in this way is delicious and soft, with a strong aroma, but the bottom of the soup is extremely clear.
But later, we need to use boiling clear soup, so now this soup needs to be kept hot.
Put the pink and tender pork belly on the chopping board, first break it from the side, and then use a knife between the tail and the belly kernel to cut the head layer and cut it off.
There is also fascia on the pork belly, so in order to ensure the taste of this dish after it is produced, it is necessary to remove this layer of fascia, so the old man first took a clean towel specially used to wipe the ingredients , while tearing the fascia down along the belly kernel, while wiping the water on it.
This is a job that pays attention to precision and strength. Firstly, don't use too much force, and secondly, don't be too anxious, otherwise the pork belly will be torn apart.
It took about five or six minutes for Chen Nian to tear off all the fascia inside.
Then he turned it over to the back, and there was still a layer of oil tendons on the back, and the oil tendons here also needed to be torn off.
After processing, put it into clean water for rinsing after aging. At this time, it is necessary to let the pork belly fully absorb the water, so as to ensure that the pork belly will be crisp and tender when it is made.
After a while, after the pork belly was soaked, Chen Nian took it out of the water and began to change the slanted flower knife along the direction of the tendons.
There is a little difference between changing the knife for pork belly and changing the knife for waist flower. Although they are all cut obliquely, the knife and the chopping board must be kept perpendicular to the waist, but when cutting pork belly, you need to Turn the knife sideways to form a 45-degree angle with the chopping board.
Because the thickness of the pork belly itself is thinner than that of the loin, cutting it obliquely can also ensure that the length of the ears of wheat will not be too small.
After being improved at a diagonal angle of 45 degrees in different directions, the surface of the pork belly has produced grains in the shape of ears of wheat.
It looks so beautiful.
After changing the flower knife, the old man cut it into slices and put it in a basin, and began to add edible white alkali to it for cleaning.
Edible caustic soda has a very obvious decomposition effect on oil. Usually, after the tableware or chopping board at home is contaminated with grease, you can apply an appropriate amount of edible caustic soda and then clean it.
And when used on pork belly, it can also further wash off the unnecessary fat on it, because it will be used in clear soup at that time. To ensure the clarity of the soup, all excess fat must be removed.
Moreover, edible white alkali also has a certain deodorizing effect.
Some dishes made with offal need to retain a certain visceral flavor in order to taste more delicious, but what is needed for this dish of melon and swallow sui tripe is only the taste of the tripe, and the rest of the tripe itself is best not to have any taste.
Sprinkle the edible white alkali into the basin, knead it evenly with your hands, and then put it aside.
By the way, he also told his apprentices some usage of edible white alkali in cooking.
Although they were all busy with their own things at the moment, they all pricked up their ears and listened very carefully.
"Add edible white alkali, after kneading, it is best to let it stand for 10 minutes to give it a reaction time. In fact, cooking is a combination of most of the chemical reactions and a small part of the physical reactions. There is something biological about it.
Let edible white alkali decompose excess oil, this is a chemical reaction, some chemical reactions take a short time, so you don’t need to wait too long, but some chemical reactions take a long time, you need to give it enough time to finish. "
Xie Yu poured the vegetables into the basin while listening, while Qiao Zhaomei put them on the plate.
But Xie Yu felt a little dizzy after listening to this professional stuff: "Master, I feel that I can understand what you said, but I don't seem to understand it. I have studied physics and chemistry before, but now Just forget about it."
Chen Nian smiled: "This is normal. I have forgotten some things I have learned before, but I usually remember this step when I am working. In fact, I also hope that you will not only study cooking In addition, you can also pick up the old things and learn from them.”
He Hai nodded: "Then I have to learn from the content of junior high school, but what other obvious chemical reactions do we have when we cook?"
"Other things, do you know fried sugar color? In fact, this is the Maillard reaction, that is, the non-enzymatic browning reaction. I won't tell you the specific reaction equation and principle. I guess you don't quite understand it.
In fact, it’s okay to not understand these technical terms. After all, these skills have been passed down from ancient times to the present, relying on experience. Many masters today have actually never been to school, but this does not prevent them from becoming masters.
It's just that I can better understand some of the principles, which is still helpful for improving cooking skills. "
"Master, then I'll go back tonight and see if there are any books that specifically talk about chemical reactions in cooking. If there are any books, I'll read and learn after I buy them."
"Well, let's learn more." Chen Nian said.
"When you become masters in the future, some apprentices will ask you why the color of fried sugar turns black. At least you can answer it. You can say that it is a compound of free amino and reducing sugar or hydrocarbon. The reactions such as polymerization and condensation that take place, after a complicated process, will eventually produce brown or even brown-black macromolecular substances like black crystals.
Rather than foolishly saying that this thing itself can be fried, the apprentice can only say that it is fried when he asks why. "
"Master, I want to learn even more when you say it like this. It's too pretentious to say it." Li Ting also said at this time.
Chen Nian nodded in agreement: "Indeed, it's really pretentious to say that. I often do this outside. When people hear it, they say, Wow, why are you so good? Although I don't understand, I always feel quite Awesome."
After chatting for a while, Chen Nian saw that the color of the pork belly had become very bright, then he scooped a spoonful of boiling water that had been boiled while chatting, poured it into the basin, and continued to soak it.
The temperature of the boiling water is about eighty degrees, so it should not be too hot.
This step is called scalding with alkaline water.
This can make the texture of the pork belly more crispy and tender, and the thinly sliced pork belly will become more mature during the hot process.
After being cooked, the pork belly will be rolled up, which looks a bit like a squid roll from the outside.
But this step takes a long time.
During this process, Chen Nian went to help cook other dishes in the store.
After about 10 minutes, Chen Nian was not so busy, so he went into the box and asked everyone how the food was today.
Unsurprisingly, he got another compliment.
"Boss Chen, the meal you cooked today is really good. Although it's a bit spicy, it's very delicious." Ke Jie said happily.
"Yes, when you come to BJ in the future, you must contact me, and I will treat you to dinner!" Zhan Ying also said boldly.
"That's right, that's right, call me up when the time comes, Sister Ying will invite you at noon, and I will invite you at night." Lian Xiao also said hastily.
"No problem, no problem. I will definitely find you guys for lunch, or we can buy some ingredients to eat at someone's house. To tell you the truth, I am also very good at making hot pot bottom ingredients." Chen Nian said.
"Okay!" Zhanying gave an OK gesture.
As a result, Ke Jie felt that the two people were looking at him from time to time at this moment, as if they meant something.
"Boss Chen, they're all finished talking, and it's up to me next time. If you go to Hangzhou to play, you can come to my side of Yuejiang River to sit. When you go, just let me know. I will personally entertain you when the time comes." .
Or come to BJ and wait for them to finish their invitations. I will take you to a barbecue restaurant that I like very much, called Northeast Family. Their roasted kidneys are really delicious. Every time I go to eat, I will order ten or so first. Grilled kidneys on skewers. "
"If you say so, I don't need to spend money to eat when I go to BJ." Chen Nian said with a smile.
"No, no matter what money you spend, it's all in BJ, so we must entertain you, or you can eat whatever you want, we don't have many hobbies except playing chess and games, so we only have food Eat." Lian Xiao said.
Chen Nian usually feels quite shy when he looks at Lian Xiao. Although it is a bit abstract to be infected by the two people around him, overall it is quite normal.
"Okay, then let's make a deal first, wait a minute and there is the last soup, it will take about seven or eight minutes."
"It's okay, don't worry, don't be afraid to wait for good food."
In this way, the old age returned to the kitchen again.
I was busy with other things for a while. After the pork belly was simmered, I took it out, washed it with water to remove the alkaline smell, and finally put it in the clear soup for later use.
This dish is called Gua Yan Sui Du, and there are melons in addition to the belly.
As mentioned earlier, the reason why this dish uses melon is because it is a combination of two dishes, and the other dish is called melon swallow in clear soup.
The reason why it is called this name is that after the wax gourd is peeled and fleshed, it is cut in half with a continuous knife.
The cut melons are still connected, but after being pulled apart, there are strips of filaments.
Then sprinkle mung bean starch on it, and after mixing evenly, the excess water in the winter melon will be absorbed by the starch.
Then boil the pot under water, wait until the winter melon enters the water, then turn to low heat, there is no need to cook for too long, just wait until the winter melon is slightly softer.
After taking it out, put it in the strainer like this, put it on the basin, and pour the boiled clear soup on it continuously for scalding.
After such treatment, the wax gourd looks like a bird's nest when placed in the bottom of the basin, which is why this dish is called clear soup melon swallow.
At the end of aging, put the spare pork belly on top and pour in clear soup.
The dish is done.
In fact, the overall production process feels that this dish is a bit like boiled sea mussels in chicken soup, but the actual production difficulty is still higher than that of chicken soup boiled sea clams, and it is more complicated.
After making it, Chen Nian directly brought the soup to the box.
"What is this?" The three asked curiously.
"Guayansui tripe is a Sichuan dish."
"Is this also Sichuan cuisine? But it doesn't look like any chili."
Chen Nian laughed after hearing this, and what he was waiting for was this sentence: "Actually, there are many non-spicy dishes in Sichuan cuisine, but these home-cooked dishes are more spicy. This dish is also the most time-consuming dish. Just this soup It will take at least four hours."
"It's been so long! Didn't you start preparing as soon as you came back?" Ke Jie asked in surprise.
"Yeah, if you don't prepare earlier, it will be too late."
"That's great, what's that in the middle? Is it a squid?" Zhanying was a little curious again.
"No, that's pork belly, but it doesn't taste fishy, and the taste is actually similar to that of squid, but it's better to use pork belly for soup." Chen Nian explained.
And Ke Jie became energetic when he heard this: "You don't know that, Mr. Ying, pork belly can be used to make soup in Guangdong, and there is a very famous dish called pork belly chicken. Go out to eat pork belly. Belly chicken, you can also make hot pot in it after eating."
Hearing this, Zhan Ying pouted angrily: "It seems how capable you are. It's not that I haven't eaten it, but I just didn't remember it for a while."
While talking, she directly reached out to serve the soup, and filled a bowl full for herself.
(End of this chapter)
The last dish Chen Nian prepared for them was called Gua Yan Sui Du, which was also a combination of two other non-spicy Sichuan dishes.
Clear soup with melons and swallows and harvested wheat ear tripe.
The previous dish of melon and swallow in clear soup has been learned before aging, and this dish of harvested wheat ear belly is what I came into contact with when learning mapo tofu at the beginning of aging.
In the 70s, a man named Chen Shengde made this dish when he was fighting with others, and then put it in his own store for sale.
So for this dish, Chen Nian went out and bought a freshly cut winter melon and a piece of pork belly.
The aged pork belly is not so fat. After all, it is to be used in the soup, so if it is too fat, it will affect the taste and taste a little greasy.
Pork belly has also been cleaned before aging, so it can be used directly at this time.
In addition, special clear soup is needed. This kind of clear soup is still somewhat different from high soup, but the clear soup used to make this dish is similar to the clear soup used to make boiled cabbage.
But this clear soup is already made in the afternoon.
He added ham, chicken, duck and elbow to it.
At the same time, scallions and ginger were put in to remove the fishy smell of the raw materials themselves. After three hours of cooking, all the ingredients that were put in before were taken out.
At this time, put the minced lean minced pork into the water to stir it up, and then pour it into the pot for clear soup.
Pork is used to make clear soup. The minced pork will not spoil the taste of this pot of soup. On the contrary, the deliciousness of pork can be further integrated into the soup. At the same time, pork can also absorb impurities in the soup.
After repeating this three times, the impurities are filtered out, and the remaining soup is clear soup.
The soup produced in this way is delicious and soft, with a strong aroma, but the bottom of the soup is extremely clear.
But later, we need to use boiling clear soup, so now this soup needs to be kept hot.
Put the pink and tender pork belly on the chopping board, first break it from the side, and then use a knife between the tail and the belly kernel to cut the head layer and cut it off.
There is also fascia on the pork belly, so in order to ensure the taste of this dish after it is produced, it is necessary to remove this layer of fascia, so the old man first took a clean towel specially used to wipe the ingredients , while tearing the fascia down along the belly kernel, while wiping the water on it.
This is a job that pays attention to precision and strength. Firstly, don't use too much force, and secondly, don't be too anxious, otherwise the pork belly will be torn apart.
It took about five or six minutes for Chen Nian to tear off all the fascia inside.
Then he turned it over to the back, and there was still a layer of oil tendons on the back, and the oil tendons here also needed to be torn off.
After processing, put it into clean water for rinsing after aging. At this time, it is necessary to let the pork belly fully absorb the water, so as to ensure that the pork belly will be crisp and tender when it is made.
After a while, after the pork belly was soaked, Chen Nian took it out of the water and began to change the slanted flower knife along the direction of the tendons.
There is a little difference between changing the knife for pork belly and changing the knife for waist flower. Although they are all cut obliquely, the knife and the chopping board must be kept perpendicular to the waist, but when cutting pork belly, you need to Turn the knife sideways to form a 45-degree angle with the chopping board.
Because the thickness of the pork belly itself is thinner than that of the loin, cutting it obliquely can also ensure that the length of the ears of wheat will not be too small.
After being improved at a diagonal angle of 45 degrees in different directions, the surface of the pork belly has produced grains in the shape of ears of wheat.
It looks so beautiful.
After changing the flower knife, the old man cut it into slices and put it in a basin, and began to add edible white alkali to it for cleaning.
Edible caustic soda has a very obvious decomposition effect on oil. Usually, after the tableware or chopping board at home is contaminated with grease, you can apply an appropriate amount of edible caustic soda and then clean it.
And when used on pork belly, it can also further wash off the unnecessary fat on it, because it will be used in clear soup at that time. To ensure the clarity of the soup, all excess fat must be removed.
Moreover, edible white alkali also has a certain deodorizing effect.
Some dishes made with offal need to retain a certain visceral flavor in order to taste more delicious, but what is needed for this dish of melon and swallow sui tripe is only the taste of the tripe, and the rest of the tripe itself is best not to have any taste.
Sprinkle the edible white alkali into the basin, knead it evenly with your hands, and then put it aside.
By the way, he also told his apprentices some usage of edible white alkali in cooking.
Although they were all busy with their own things at the moment, they all pricked up their ears and listened very carefully.
"Add edible white alkali, after kneading, it is best to let it stand for 10 minutes to give it a reaction time. In fact, cooking is a combination of most of the chemical reactions and a small part of the physical reactions. There is something biological about it.
Let edible white alkali decompose excess oil, this is a chemical reaction, some chemical reactions take a short time, so you don’t need to wait too long, but some chemical reactions take a long time, you need to give it enough time to finish. "
Xie Yu poured the vegetables into the basin while listening, while Qiao Zhaomei put them on the plate.
But Xie Yu felt a little dizzy after listening to this professional stuff: "Master, I feel that I can understand what you said, but I don't seem to understand it. I have studied physics and chemistry before, but now Just forget about it."
Chen Nian smiled: "This is normal. I have forgotten some things I have learned before, but I usually remember this step when I am working. In fact, I also hope that you will not only study cooking In addition, you can also pick up the old things and learn from them.”
He Hai nodded: "Then I have to learn from the content of junior high school, but what other obvious chemical reactions do we have when we cook?"
"Other things, do you know fried sugar color? In fact, this is the Maillard reaction, that is, the non-enzymatic browning reaction. I won't tell you the specific reaction equation and principle. I guess you don't quite understand it.
In fact, it’s okay to not understand these technical terms. After all, these skills have been passed down from ancient times to the present, relying on experience. Many masters today have actually never been to school, but this does not prevent them from becoming masters.
It's just that I can better understand some of the principles, which is still helpful for improving cooking skills. "
"Master, then I'll go back tonight and see if there are any books that specifically talk about chemical reactions in cooking. If there are any books, I'll read and learn after I buy them."
"Well, let's learn more." Chen Nian said.
"When you become masters in the future, some apprentices will ask you why the color of fried sugar turns black. At least you can answer it. You can say that it is a compound of free amino and reducing sugar or hydrocarbon. The reactions such as polymerization and condensation that take place, after a complicated process, will eventually produce brown or even brown-black macromolecular substances like black crystals.
Rather than foolishly saying that this thing itself can be fried, the apprentice can only say that it is fried when he asks why. "
"Master, I want to learn even more when you say it like this. It's too pretentious to say it." Li Ting also said at this time.
Chen Nian nodded in agreement: "Indeed, it's really pretentious to say that. I often do this outside. When people hear it, they say, Wow, why are you so good? Although I don't understand, I always feel quite Awesome."
After chatting for a while, Chen Nian saw that the color of the pork belly had become very bright, then he scooped a spoonful of boiling water that had been boiled while chatting, poured it into the basin, and continued to soak it.
The temperature of the boiling water is about eighty degrees, so it should not be too hot.
This step is called scalding with alkaline water.
This can make the texture of the pork belly more crispy and tender, and the thinly sliced pork belly will become more mature during the hot process.
After being cooked, the pork belly will be rolled up, which looks a bit like a squid roll from the outside.
But this step takes a long time.
During this process, Chen Nian went to help cook other dishes in the store.
After about 10 minutes, Chen Nian was not so busy, so he went into the box and asked everyone how the food was today.
Unsurprisingly, he got another compliment.
"Boss Chen, the meal you cooked today is really good. Although it's a bit spicy, it's very delicious." Ke Jie said happily.
"Yes, when you come to BJ in the future, you must contact me, and I will treat you to dinner!" Zhan Ying also said boldly.
"That's right, that's right, call me up when the time comes, Sister Ying will invite you at noon, and I will invite you at night." Lian Xiao also said hastily.
"No problem, no problem. I will definitely find you guys for lunch, or we can buy some ingredients to eat at someone's house. To tell you the truth, I am also very good at making hot pot bottom ingredients." Chen Nian said.
"Okay!" Zhanying gave an OK gesture.
As a result, Ke Jie felt that the two people were looking at him from time to time at this moment, as if they meant something.
"Boss Chen, they're all finished talking, and it's up to me next time. If you go to Hangzhou to play, you can come to my side of Yuejiang River to sit. When you go, just let me know. I will personally entertain you when the time comes." .
Or come to BJ and wait for them to finish their invitations. I will take you to a barbecue restaurant that I like very much, called Northeast Family. Their roasted kidneys are really delicious. Every time I go to eat, I will order ten or so first. Grilled kidneys on skewers. "
"If you say so, I don't need to spend money to eat when I go to BJ." Chen Nian said with a smile.
"No, no matter what money you spend, it's all in BJ, so we must entertain you, or you can eat whatever you want, we don't have many hobbies except playing chess and games, so we only have food Eat." Lian Xiao said.
Chen Nian usually feels quite shy when he looks at Lian Xiao. Although it is a bit abstract to be infected by the two people around him, overall it is quite normal.
"Okay, then let's make a deal first, wait a minute and there is the last soup, it will take about seven or eight minutes."
"It's okay, don't worry, don't be afraid to wait for good food."
In this way, the old age returned to the kitchen again.
I was busy with other things for a while. After the pork belly was simmered, I took it out, washed it with water to remove the alkaline smell, and finally put it in the clear soup for later use.
This dish is called Gua Yan Sui Du, and there are melons in addition to the belly.
As mentioned earlier, the reason why this dish uses melon is because it is a combination of two dishes, and the other dish is called melon swallow in clear soup.
The reason why it is called this name is that after the wax gourd is peeled and fleshed, it is cut in half with a continuous knife.
The cut melons are still connected, but after being pulled apart, there are strips of filaments.
Then sprinkle mung bean starch on it, and after mixing evenly, the excess water in the winter melon will be absorbed by the starch.
Then boil the pot under water, wait until the winter melon enters the water, then turn to low heat, there is no need to cook for too long, just wait until the winter melon is slightly softer.
After taking it out, put it in the strainer like this, put it on the basin, and pour the boiled clear soup on it continuously for scalding.
After such treatment, the wax gourd looks like a bird's nest when placed in the bottom of the basin, which is why this dish is called clear soup melon swallow.
At the end of aging, put the spare pork belly on top and pour in clear soup.
The dish is done.
In fact, the overall production process feels that this dish is a bit like boiled sea mussels in chicken soup, but the actual production difficulty is still higher than that of chicken soup boiled sea clams, and it is more complicated.
After making it, Chen Nian directly brought the soup to the box.
"What is this?" The three asked curiously.
"Guayansui tripe is a Sichuan dish."
"Is this also Sichuan cuisine? But it doesn't look like any chili."
Chen Nian laughed after hearing this, and what he was waiting for was this sentence: "Actually, there are many non-spicy dishes in Sichuan cuisine, but these home-cooked dishes are more spicy. This dish is also the most time-consuming dish. Just this soup It will take at least four hours."
"It's been so long! Didn't you start preparing as soon as you came back?" Ke Jie asked in surprise.
"Yeah, if you don't prepare earlier, it will be too late."
"That's great, what's that in the middle? Is it a squid?" Zhanying was a little curious again.
"No, that's pork belly, but it doesn't taste fishy, and the taste is actually similar to that of squid, but it's better to use pork belly for soup." Chen Nian explained.
And Ke Jie became energetic when he heard this: "You don't know that, Mr. Ying, pork belly can be used to make soup in Guangdong, and there is a very famous dish called pork belly chicken. Go out to eat pork belly. Belly chicken, you can also make hot pot in it after eating."
Hearing this, Zhan Ying pouted angrily: "It seems how capable you are. It's not that I haven't eaten it, but I just didn't remember it for a while."
While talking, she directly reached out to serve the soup, and filled a bowl full for herself.
(End of this chapter)
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