Don't pretend, I'm the God of Cooking and I'll showdown!

Chapter 281 A high-end Sichuan dish that combines freshness, fragrance and tenderness——Steamed Jiang Tuan! 【Subscribe】

Not long after, everyone came out of the room where the dry sauce was made.

Xie Baomin asked with a smile:
"What about the two river balls? Take them out and let Lao Dai show you his skills... Junior brother, look carefully, the steaming technique of Sichuan cuisine is completely different from that of Cantonese cuisine."

Cantonese cuisine pays attention to freshness, and the method pursues natural flavor.

That's why steaming sea bass is so simple, steam it, decant the soup, put onion and ginger shreds, top with steamed fish soy sauce, heat the oil, and it's all done!

Whether it is a night market stall or an ordinary family, you can cook this dish with gusto.

But Sichuan cuisine is different. The steamed dish in Sichuan cuisine is a big dish.

Jiangtuan tastes fat and has been a tribute since ancient times. Such a rare ingredient naturally needs to be set off with a bunch of precious ingredients, so as to highlight its status.

Dai Jianli said:
"Yes, Brother Lin, take a good look at the routines and techniques of steaming big dishes. If you need it later, it can be regarded as accumulating some experience."

He was very excited.

Because the two Jiang Tuan "borrowed" from Building No. [-] are excellent in both quality and size.

It is a bit higher than the farmed river group brought by Lao Huang, which is why he took the risk to "borrow" it this morning.

Brother Lin is here, so he has to eat well.

As the original owner of Jiang Tuan, Song Dahai looked at Lao Dai helplessly:

"Dog, take my Jiang Tuan as a favor."

While he was complaining, Lin Xu asked curiously:
"Chef Song, where did you buy this Jiangtuan? Is it still available?"

"A few friends bought these by chance when they were traveling on the Minjiang River. They used an aerator to get them all the way to the capital. I managed to get a few of them, but this dog stole half of them."

Dai Jianli took the copy net and fished out Jiang Tuan from it and said:
"What you said is wrong, Lao Song. I want to eat alone if I get something delicious. I want to be like you. Do you have any dipping sauce?"

When the chefs next to him heard it, none of them echoed his words.

You dog, you even stole and robbed so much of our stuff, and even put on a self-sacrificing posture, your face is about to catch up with Xie Baomin.

After the Jiang Tuan was fished out, everyone came to the kitchen and began to watch Dai Jianli cook the steamed Jiang Tuan.

The ingredients for making steamed jiangtuan have been prepared in the kitchen.

The ham has been cooked, the scallops have been soaked until soft, and the fish maw is ready.

In addition to these precious ingredients, the kitchen also prepares ingredients that add flavor and freshness, such as floret mushrooms, which are the best among shiitake mushrooms, and magnolia slices, a dried product made of bamboo shoots.

Lin Xu felt a burst of emotion in his heart.

Jiangtuan is already delicious enough, but if it is cooked with these ingredients, how delicious would it be?
When Dai Jianli went to clean up Jiang Tuan by the pool, he asked:
"Steam both of these, or cook another dish?"

Xie Baomin said:
"It's all steamed. It's been a long time since I've had fresh steamed Jiangtuan soup. I'm going to drink more today because I want to drink it again next time. I don't know when it will be."

Qingzhengjiangtuan will basically make it when present.

But such a good ingredient is not easy to come across, so this time I encountered it, let’s eat it first and then talk about it.

When Dai Jianli cleaned up, Lin Xu rolled up his sleeves and went to help.

Jiang Tuan has small eyes and a long mouth, and looks like a mouse from the front, so in the Yangtze River Delta, this fish is also called mouse catfish.

This kind of fish has no scales on the surface, and its body is covered with mucus, which is slippery to the touch.

Lin Xu asked curiously:
"Chef Dai, is this slime rubbed with salt?"

Dai Jianli shook his head:
"Salt rubbing is not enough, and it can't be washed cleanly. Jiang Tuan has to be scalded. The outer skin can be scalded to remove the mucus on the surface, and the steamed fish will have no fishy smell."

hot?
Lin Xu immediately remembered what catfish did.

When stewing catfish in Northeast China, the surface of the catfish is also scalded with hot water to remove mucus.

"For fish with scales, just scrape off the scales, but it's better to scald this kind of fish without scales, because fish without scales basically live at the bottom of the water, and the fishy smell is relatively strong."

While speaking, Dai Jianli cut open the belly of the fish.

The viscera of Jiang Tuan was then cleaned out, and the most striking of the viscera was the swim bladder, which seemed to be very thick in texture, that is, fish bubbles.

Dai Jianli pulled the fish bubbles and put them aside, and said with a smile:

"This is a good thing. It is dried and made into fish maw, which is a tribute from all dynasties. It is recorded in ancient books that in the past, Jiang Tuan was huge, and the fish maw was very impressive. Unlike now, not only is it small, but it is also caught. It's almost time to protect animals..."

Looking at the fish bubbles, Lin Xu couldn't help but think of the prepared fish maws.

Those fish maws should be the fish maws of sea fish. It is very important to use sea fish to make freshwater fish!
After cleaning up the fish, the internal organs of the fish were handed over to the head chef to make fish offal with pickled peppers. Dai Jian used a rope to thread the fish head of Jiangtuan and brought it to the stove.

It's time to scald.

Guo Weidong said to Lin Xu:

"This type of aquatic scalding has requirements for water temperature. It should not be lower than [-] degrees. If it is lower than [-] degrees, it will not be scalded, but it should not exceed [-] degrees. If it exceeds [-] degrees, the fish will be scalded."

Is it that strict?
Not long after, small bubbles began to appear at the bottom of the pot, which was a sign that the water temperature had reached [-] degrees.

After working in the kitchen for so long, Lin Xu has a good understanding of the water temperature.

For example, there are dense small bubbles on the edge of the pot, and the warm water is around [-] degrees. When small bubbles start to appear at the bottom of the pot, the water temperature is [-] degrees, and big bubbles appear at the bottom of the pot. Basically, it is above [-] degrees.

Dai Jianli put two rice balls on top of the pot, scooped up the water from the pot with a spoon and poured it over the fish.

As soon as it was poured on, the mucus on the fish immediately solidified into a film, just like a mask.

After pouring and scalding several times in this way, throw the fish into the pot and rinse it again, so that the skin of the fish is fully soaked in hot water.

After scalding, put it out immediately, and then put it under the faucet, quickly wash the mucous membranes on Jiang Tuan, and cool the fish body with cold water by the way to prevent the loss of umami substances.

After doing this, wipe off the water on the fish, put it on the chopping board and start to change the knife.

Changing the knife of Jiang Tuan is very simple. Just cut a few times at intervals of two to three centimeters on the thick meat on both sides of the back, with a depth of more than one centimeter, so that the seasoning can completely penetrate into it.

After changing the knife, start to adjust the marinade.

The meat of Jiang Tuan is tender, so you can't rub salt directly on the meat to marinate, otherwise the water in the fish will be killed and the quality of the fish will be reduced.

Dai Jianli brought a bowl and put onion and ginger water, pepper, salt, and two teaspoons of rice wine into it.

Stir well, wait for the salt to dissolve completely, and apply it all over the body of Jiang Tuan with your hands.

After smearing, cut some green onion and ginger, flatten it and stuff it into the belly of the fish, then put the fish in a basin, and finally pour the remaining marinade on the fish to start marinating.

Taking advantage of the time to marinate the meat, Dai Jianli began to modify the ingredients.

The cooked ham is cut into thin slices. This piece is enough to make a honey sauce fire recipe in Jiangnan cuisine. However, in Sichuan cuisine, it has become an embellishment, foil, and condiment.

"In addition to adding umami, the most important thing for ham is to season the Jiangtuan, so that the taste of the Jiangtuan is more delicious, and it also avoids too much salt causing the taste of the ingredients to be stale."

Lin Xu was surprised by what the senior brother said.

It is so extravagant to use ham as salt, no wonder everyone is looking forward to this dish, this taste is enough to make people greedy.

After the ham is cut, change the other ingredients in turn.

Then add a small half pot of broth into the pot, boil it, put the mushrooms, magnolia slices, scallops and fish maw one by one into the pot and blanch it.

Use the fresh aroma of the broth to remove the peculiar smell in the ingredients, and at the same time let the heat in the broth awaken the umami substances in the ingredients.

When blanching, there must be a sequence, first the fish maw, then the scallops, and finally the magnolia slices and shiitake mushrooms. Putting the shiitake mushrooms at the end can effectively prevent the smell of the shiitake mushrooms.

After all the ingredients are hot, bring the broth in the pot to a boil again.

Then take two slices of lard oil and put them in, and blanch them with broth for one minute.

When steaming later, the lard oil will be wrapped on the fish, so scald it in advance to prevent the fishy smell and peculiar smell of lard oil from contaminating the fish.

These ingredients are properly prepared, and the Jiang Tuan is almost marinated.

Take the Jiang Tuan out of the basin, remove the onion and ginger, and then place them in a basin according to the shape of yin and yang twin fish.

After setting it up, insert the thinly sliced ​​Jinhua ham into the place where the fish was changed, and then cover it with lard oil.

Finally, put all the extra ham and other ingredients into the pot, and then add half a pot of clear soup for boiling cabbage.

Seeing this, Lin Xu felt that let alone Jiangtuan, if he just picked two leaves and cooked them, the taste would not be bad.

After adding clear soup, cover with plastic wrap to prevent condensation from dripping in.

Dai Jian used a toothpick to pierce a few holes in the plastic wrap for ventilation, then took the soup pot and put it into the steamer to start steaming.

"This approach... is really classy!"

Lin Xu sighed with emotion, this is the first time he has seen this kind of practice.

However, this kind of high-end dishes all pay attention to the harmony and unity of aroma and umami, and in this dish, there are obviously more umami ingredients than aroma ingredients. Can this aroma top it?
Although there is a lot of fat in the two slices of lard oil, it is somewhat thin compared to ingredients such as ham.

In line with the principle of finding someone to answer any questions, Lin Xu asked this question.

As a result, all the chefs present showed expressions like you had never eaten Jiangtuan, which made Lin Xu even more confused.

"Junior Brother, Jiang Tuan is different from other fish. The meat of Jiang Tuan contains a lot of fat and has a strong aroma, so this dish only uses lard oil."

As soon as Xie Baomin finished speaking, Song Dahai also said:

"Among the eight major cuisines, Sichuan cuisine is the one that likes to use lard the most. The reason why Lao Dai uses it so restrainedly is because Jiangtuan is fatty and rich in fat."

Oh... got it!
Lin Xu felt fortunate for a while, fortunately, he hadn't pretended to have eaten jiangtuan before.

Otherwise, at this moment, I can definitely dig out half of the community with my feet in the kitchen.

Next, in order to express his welcome to Lin Xu and his love for Song Dahai's contribution of ingredients, Dai Jianli made several representative dishes.

For example, unpopular dishes that are not seen in ordinary Sichuan restaurants, such as fat sausage in clear soup, loofah in white oil, magnolia chicken slices, garlic tripe strips, and ginkgo stewed chicken, really opened Lin Xu's horizons.

Forty minutes later.

When lunch was almost ready, the rice balls in the steamer had already been steamed.

Open the cabinet, take out the pot of steamed rice balls from inside, peel off the plastic wrap, and a strong fresh fragrance wafts out from the pot.

The soup in the basin remained clear, but there was a layer of grease on the surface.

This should be steamed from lard, ham and fish.

The soup is clear and the fish is complete, which looks quite appetizing.

But the most attractive thing is the strong fragrance and umami taste. The two flavors are intertwined, and the pores of the whole body are relaxed just by smelling the smell.

Lin Xu couldn't help taking a deep breath.

Mom!This is so erotic.

"Is this Jiang Tuan steamed?"

He couldn't wait to taste it, but the answer he got was:

"Not yet, wait a minute."

Dai Jianli brought a basin, carefully poured out the steamed Jiangtuan soup, and then picked out the lard oil that had not completely melted and threw it away.

Then he readjusted the fish in the basin to make the appearance more perfect.

The ham slices in the basin were also rearranged.

Then pour the poured soup into the pot, bring it to a boil, then add a teaspoon of sugar and a teaspoon of pepper to bring out all the umami and aroma of the soup.

After adjusting, pour the soup back into the basin containing Jiangtuan.

The hot soup was poured into the bowl, and the fish that had cooled down a little bit was stimulated by the hot soup, and the rich fresh fragrance wafted out again.

The fresh and fragrant taste became strong again, even more delicious than when it was just brought out of the steamer.

"Let's go, let's start eating!"

Dai Jianli walked towards the private room with a basin in his hand, and when he was about to leave the kitchen door, he turned around and told the head chef:
"Don't forget to bring us some hairy ginger vinegar, this is indispensable for eating Jiangtuan."

Ginger vinegar?
Isn't this the dipping sauce when eating meat or hairy crabs?
Eat Jiang Tuan also dip this?
Seeing Lin Xu's puzzled look, Guo Weidong said:
"The meat of Jiangtuan is already fatty, but if you steam it with this delicious ingredient and thick soup, the fatty feeling will become more obvious, so when you eat it, you should dip it in hairy ginger vinegar like you eat crabs and delicacies. , so that it can not only relieve the greasiness, but also maximize the umami taste of the fish.”

Learned another trick!
When he came to the private room, Xie Baomin couldn't wait to pick up a piece of fish fin and taste it:

"It has to be Jiang Tuan, this taste, this texture, it's just right."

Everyone picked up the spoons one after another, filled a bowl of soup and tasted it first. The soup was very rich in umami, but not greasy at all. It tasted not only the unique freshness of Hexian, but also the freshness of other ingredients.

And the layer of oily flowers floating on it gives this delicious soup a rich taste.

This taste is absolutely perfect.

Lin Xu drank a small bowl of fish soup with emotion, and the waiter brought ginger vinegar.

Ginger is made into minced ginger, marinated in balsamic vinegar, so that the spicy taste of ginger and the sour aroma of balsamic vinegar blend together, then add a little sugar and a little salt, and it becomes the ginger vinegar that is inseparable from eating crabs .

Lin Xu watched the others start eating, and also used chopsticks to pick up a piece of steamed belly meat that was trembling, dipped it in ginger vinegar, and then put it in his mouth.

The plump jiangtuan meat and ginger vinegar had a perfect encounter in the mouth.

The meat on Jiang Tuan’s stomach has a jelly-like texture, and it tends to get greasy if eaten too much. The appearance of ginger vinegar not only dilutes the greasy, but also reveals the delicious taste in the fish.

"How about Brother Lin? This Jiang Tuan tastes good, doesn't it?"

Dai Jianli asked with a smile.

Lin Xu gave him a thumbs up:

"It is indeed one of the top ten famous dishes in Sichuan cuisine. The taste is simply wonderful. Thank you, Chef Dai, for allowing me to experience such delicious dishes."

"Ham! This is a trivial matter. Turn back to Lao Song... Turn back to everyone who has good food, I will borrow it for you, and we will taste it together. Anyway, Director Liao said that you will be a distinguished guest of Diaoyutai in the future. Let We have a good relationship with you."

Tsk tsk tsk, no wonder he used his own name to steal fish early in the morning.

It turned out that Director Liao from the catering department had spoken.

Lin Xu helped Diaoyutai win a cooking competition, repelled the hostile attacks of other foreign-related hotels in Yanjing City, and used his own relationship to turn Diaoyutai into a cooperative unit of "Eating the World".

Now Liao Jinming is reciprocating and offering preferential treatment to Lin Xu, which is considered reasonable.

As for Dai Jianli going to steal fish...

Who could have imagined this?
The taste of jiangtuan is unforgettable. Lin Xu made up his mind while eating it. When he is not busy, he must find a way to buy two jiangtuan and steam them in this way, so that his family can also try it.

While eating, Xie Baomin said:

"Lao Dai's lo mei here is pretty good, junior brother, let's take some back later."

Guo Weidong answered and said:
"Lao Dai's sweet duck is really good, don't forget to bring a few."

Qiu Zhenhua echoed:

"Sichuan cuisine's stewed oil is a must. Take some with you when you leave. It's delicious with wine and rice."

He Baoqing nodded:

"There is also Dengying Beef, which is enjoyable for drinking."

Song Dahai put a Jiangtuan head into his bowl:
"There are also spicy rabbit heads. You have to eat five or six of them each time to enjoy it. Try more. This Building [-] is full of treasures."

Lin Xu felt happy when he heard it.

Chef Dai is very popular in Diaoyutai.

Look at how excited everyone is.

Dai Jianli was not annoyed either, and said with a smile:
"Brother Lin just say whatever you like, and I'll pack some more for you later."

You can force Brother Lin to take the things here, how much he took away today, how much I will "borrow" from your back kitchen later.

After finishing the Jiang Tuan, Lin Xu tried other dishes.

Every dish is exquisite yet delicious, making people want to eat more.

After lunch, he loaded twenty catties of dipping sauce, six sweet-skinned ducks, a whole box of various braised duck products, and a bag of spicy rabbit heads into the car, bid farewell to everyone, and drove back.

Come to Yingchun Street.

It's time for dinner.

After Lin Xu parked the car, he called Che Zai, and the two moved the things in the car upstairs to the kitchen.

As soon as she put it down, Chen Yan came over:
"Didn't you go to Diaoyutai to learn how to make dipping sauce for dry dishes? Why do you feel like you have bought some goods?"

"Chef Dai is so enthusiastic that he insisted on giving me something to eat. I couldn't resist, so I brought some here for you to try... This box is full of all kinds of braised duck products, and that bag is full of spicy rabbit heads."

what?
Spicy rabbit head?

Chen Yan, who was full and ready to go back to the company, immediately became interested:
"Brother-in-law, quickly bring me two... don't take four, I will help you taste the saltiness."

Lin Xu:? ? ? ? ? ?

Do you just like cute little rabbits so much?

He nodded, and then told Che Zai:
"Get some beef bones and cook some beef bone soup in a pressure cooker. It will be useful for dinner today."

When he heard that beef bone soup was to be used, Che Zai asked curiously:

"Boss, are you making any new dishes?"

Chen Yan was also full of anticipation. She didn't expect that her brother-in-law would not forget to learn new dishes when he went to buy goods. This is simply too efficient.

Lin Xu said:

"I'm going to make a dish that doesn't use tofu... Mapo tofu!"

--------

For all the dishes in this book, no matter whether I know how to make them or not, I will habitually search for the recipes on the Internet, and strive to make the recipes more perfect.But last night when I searched for Jiang Tuan recipes, I felt a little sad, because the online tutorials about steamed Jiang Tuan are basically Cantonese dishes. It took a long time to find a video with an ancient quality. practice.Perhaps in a few years, the orthodox way of steaming Jiangtuan will be completely forgotten...

This chapter is 5300 words, ask for a monthly pass!
(End of this chapter)