Plane Merchant's Dream of a Powerful Country

ps: Thank you readers for "Shuibutou" rewarding 100 Zongheng coins, thank you o(n_n)o

Later generations of Yan and Huang have simple and profound memories of their national costumes in the Republic of China. It seems that those years were the world of gowns, cheongsams, and Chinese tunic suits, and these were the clothes of the middle and upper class. Great.These and the "Blue Ocean" in the 50s, the "Green Military Uniform" in the 60s, the "Green, Gray and Blue Tricolor" in the 70s, the "Hundred Flowers Blooming" in the 80s, and the "International Crazy" in the 90s constitute more than half a half. The clothing "family tree" of Yanhuang people in the century.

After the main plane entered the 21st century, the common people in Yanhuang had their spiritual and cultural demands for revitalizing the great power, achieving national rejuvenation, and regaining the traditional culture of the nation. Combined with the characteristics of the commodity market economy, which constantly requires subdividing and discovering the market, it constituted a There is a relatively small but stable Tang suit and Hanfu consumer market in China.

The definitions of Tang suit and Han suit are actually quite vague.The media, newspapers, the Internet, etc. all have their own standards and definitions.But no matter how they are described and defined, they all have one thing in common: Tang suit does not only refer to the clothing of the Tang Dynasty, and Hanfu does not only refer to the clothing of the Han Dynasty.

Because the Tang Dynasty was a dynasty that made the people of Yanhuang Kingdom proud and excited, the Tang Dynasty's prosperity and prestige spread far and wide overseas.Therefore, since the Tang Dynasty, all countries in the world must call Yanhuang people "Tang people", and the Chinese residential areas in Europe, the Stars and Stripes and other countries are also called "Chinatowns", and most overseas Chinese also call themselves Tang people, so it is natural and harmonious It is logical that the Chinese who live in Chinatown wear traditional Yanhuang style clothing called "Tang suit".

Although the term Hanfu has not been proposed for a long time, it has existed naturally for a long time.Since the Shang Dynasty, the clothing form of the Han people has been determined: the big skirt, the right lapel, the jacket and the skirt.In the Zhou Dynasty, "shenyi" also appeared, which is the "clothes in the form of long gowns" of the common people in China.Hanfu is flat cut, does not emphasize the characteristics of the human body, and uses styles, colors and decorations to distinguish between men and women, forming a shape that is completely different from Western clothing.And no matter how the basic elements of Yanhuang traditional clothing evolve, there is always a core that has not changed, that is, generous, easy-going, and elegant.

The first target plane.

The countdown to the founding ceremony of the Yanhuang Red Party has already entered, but what attire the leaders will wear on the tower of the Communist Party of China is still under discussion.If you refer to the history of the main plane, then tunic suits and gowns are very suitable choices for the occasion.However, from the perspective of revitalizing national culture, if Lao Mao and others are allowed to wear Tang suits and Hanfu with traditional Yanhuang characteristics to board the **, and announce the establishment of the new Yanhuang Democratic Republic.Then not only can the name and positioning of these clothes be corrected, from "wild road" clothes to elegant halls, but also the self-confidence and pride of the Yanhuang nation can be further enhanced, and the influence of Western symbols such as suits in the Yanhuang country can be weakened.

At this time, in a courtyard house in the old city of Beijing, more than 20 people were sitting together to discuss and have a meeting. They were surrounded by a lot of fabrics and clothing, red, green, brown, floral, plain, and striped. , can be said to be rich in color and style.

Before the Yanhuang Red Party liberated and recovered the enemy-occupied areas occupied by Japanese pirates across the country, Zhang Ailing's "Changing Clothes" had become popular all over the country.Many of the fashion inspirations in it are borrowed from Western clothing.But these are the noble lives of the bourgeoisie in metropolises such as Beijing and Shanghai.In the ancient city of Yangzhou, the common people still wear the original Yanhuang traditional Chinese clothing as the mainstream.

Lu Xuehao is a folk tailor with exquisite craftsmanship. He lived in Yangzhou since he was a child and learned from his father's family skills.His father, Lu Changshan, made a living by making Hanfu for ordinary civilians. Because of the turmoil at that time and the service targets were all poor people, the clothing and accessories were relatively monotonous. Most of them were Tsing Yi gowns, melon skin caps, etc., but the craftsmanship was absolutely guaranteed. Cutting, buttoning, piping, threading, nothing is sloppy.It is because of the simple professional conscience that the exquisite quality of Tang suit and Hanfu craftsmanship can be preserved and passed down in the war-torn and materially poor era of the Republic of China.

In the middle of the Republic of China, on Caiyi Street (including nearby areas) in Yangzhou City, there are many clothing shops lined up together. The famous ones include Wu Zhengkui's house near the Temple of Wealth; Zhang Tailor's house in Yangzongmen; The family of Yuan Xuehai; the family of Fan Tingzi and Zhu Laoer from Tianning Gate; the family of Lu Changshan in Caiyi Street, etc.These shops all earn their living by making garments with Yanhuang ethnic characteristics.But it is a pity that although the tailors in Caiyi Street are all skilled, due to the warlords' separatism and the chaos in the world, people's food is almost becoming a problem, and secondary factors like clothes are naturally left behind.Therefore, the family support of the tailors is only to live a difficult life and have enough food and clothing.

In the mid-30s, Lu Xuehao, who had achieved success in his studies, went to Nanjing, the capital of the Republic of China, to explore the world, and then moved to Shanghai a year later.Shanghai at that time was the intersection of Eastern and Western cultures, and it was also an important cultural center of Yanhuang. The concept of Shanghai clothing in the 30s was unconventional and trendy.It is also this kind of concept that formed the social fashion in Shanghai at that time of "only paying attention to clothes and not people".The timing coincided with the popularity of cheongsam, which made Lu Xuehao, who was born in Tang suit and Hanfu craftsman, feel like a fish in water.Under his dexterous hands, the style of cheongsam has been constantly updated, with frequent and easier changes such as neckline height, sleeve length, slit height, and matching accessories, which has won praise from customers.Even in many old Shanghai movies of the 30s, the coquettish cheongsam that was fixed in a certain scene by the charming star was sewed by Lu Xuehao himself.

It is precisely because of his outstanding reputation in the industry and his admirable craftsmanship that Lu Xuehao was invited to Beijing together with many top masters in the industry to discuss the specific design ideas of the new "Tang suit Hanfu" with domestic aesthetic and cultural masters and cut styles.

"I personally think that Yanhuang's national costumes, the so-called Tang costumes and Hanfu, should focus on reflecting the traditional cultural charm that Chinese people show through their bodies and inner national language. Men wearing Tang suits should focus on expressing elegance and extraordinary bearing. It is elegant and handsome; women's cheongsams add elegance, dignity, elegance, charm and exquisiteness, showing a gentle and subtle oriental charm." Zhao Shigang, a domestic traditional culture expert, said first.

"I agree with Mr. Zhao's suggestion." Wang Ti, a painter at the Yanhuang Academy of Painting, nodded. Hearing the sound of gongs and drums in a Chinese-style wedding; it can also be the noble and indifferent light purple, and the flickering light and shadow in the folds of the clothes, which vaguely reflects the kind of refusal to welcome; it can also be black intoxication, just wear it Experience a luxury that has been washed away by the years. In short, it should be a collection of "realization" of national culture."

"Mr. Lu, you have been engaged in the actual production of Tang suits for many years. You should have your own ideas. Can you share them with us?" Qi Baishi suggested when he saw Lu Xuehao sitting on a chair, nodding his head and thinking.

"Well, you are all gentlemen and scholars. I haven't read many books myself, so I will just briefly talk about my tailoring experience over the years. We have a formula for making Tang suits in our industry, which is called 'five styles, four mouths, six collars, eighteen Button', this is the most basic essential, no matter how the clothing changes, this cannot be changed, so that the quality of the clothes can be guaranteed; in addition, regarding the stand-up collar, open collar, slanted front, double front, piping, and flower buttons, I They all brought specific samples, and you can take a look at them later, and consider how to apply them to the new national costumes (Tang costumes and Hanfu) while commenting; there are also flower-shaped patterns that have been passed down from ancient times in Tang costumes, such as dragons and phoenixes showing auspiciousness, dragons flying and phoenixes dancing , Nine Dragons Playing Beads, etc. I also brought patterns such as Crane and Deer in the Same Spring, Magpies Climbing Plum Blossoms, Phoenix Playing Peonies, etc. Whether these can be used, should they be used, I hope that a regulation can be made first; finally, traditional Chinese clothing There is no waist, because women's clothes lack curves, and now some customers have requested to change the waist. In the past, the hem of the skirt was very narrow, and you could only take short steps when walking, but now the skirt is made bigger, etc. These needs Don't you need to take it into consideration?"

"I think it is very necessary, like the open front of the cheongsam, the traditional one is very high, my friends feel very uncomfortable, and it always feels a bit awkward to wear, if the open front is lower, it will be more comfortable." A female representative heard After seeing Lu Xuehao's speech, he immediately responded with empathy.This is an older middle-aged lady, and one of the celebrities in the Republic of China.In the early days, when the Red Party had just regained Beijing, she restrained herself for a period of time because she didn’t know the policies of the Red Party. When the policies of the Red Party were gradually announced to the public, she discovered that the Yanhuang Red Party, which was rumored to be communist and co-wives, had nothing to do with her. No crime, and encourage them to go out and encourage a hundred flowers to bloom.She found a job in the Painting and Calligraphy Association, teaching young students Yanhuang traditional Chinese painting Danqing, which not only gave full play to her interests, but also gained a stable income, so as to maintain the family's not cheap living standard.

Today, in order to reflect the beauty of traditional national costumes, she specially dressed up to attend.At this time, she was wearing a cheongsam with full-sleeved blue soft satin with dark flowers, and the hem, neckline, and cuffs of the robe were all pressed with three-inch-wide knurled brocade borders.On top of the cheongsam, there is another green vest.On the feet are a pair of black soft-soled embroidered shoes, showing a kind of pure and sparse charm.The perm-dyed hair is undulating and shiny, and neatly covers the forehead.Above the beautiful eyes, the eyebrows seem to come from the hands of a painter.The pink lipstick sets off a set of neat teeth, and the lavender-brown silk scarf tied around the neck and the flesh-colored coral brooch on the chest are like flowing waves under the refraction of the sun, adding a bit of vividness.

"Mr. Min (Ms. Guan is also called Mister in the Republic of China) is right. Is there anything else?" Qi Baishi encouraged.

"I still have some. The women's clothes I mentioned just now are mostly women's clothes, but this time the leaders are mostly men, so calmness should be the first priority, so you have to make a choice in color. For example, blue..."

In this way, in what you said and what I said, and in the opinion of masters of Yanhuang culture and experts from all walks of life who are related to clothing, Yanhuang Xinguo (Han) clothes and Tang suits of the first target plane were gradually conceived and formed. .