A mouthful of fried rice at a sky-high price, Old Tang apprenticed on the spot

Chapter 339 Eclectic
"No fat? Impossible?"

Wu Lei was puzzled: "I've been to Xiangjiang, and the char siu I ate were both thin and fat?"

"That's right! There are indeed fat and thin skewers for char siew nowadays, and I also like to eat fat ones."

Li Yi turned off the fire, took a steel wool ball, put the scorched black pig's head into the pool, scrubbed it, and explained: "In Cantonese-style siu mei, those without skin and bones are called char siu, and those with skin and The one with the bone is called roasted pork, and the one without skin and bone is called roasted pork.

The previous char siu was actually called char siew, which means that the ribs are inserted with a knife.

It means that the meat is inserted on the iron fork, and the chef sticks it into the oven or on the charcoal fire, carefully controlling the heat and firing.

This method is the production mode of the palace or the official family, just like the roast venison used to describe the wealth of Jia's family in "Dream of Red Mansions". Ordinary people's homes cannot afford to burn so much charcoal for barbecue. "

The Ivory Mountain Six members saw Li Yi cleaning the pig's head, so they all came over to help.

Hearing Li Yi's description, Yang Shulin smiled and said, "Speaking bluntly, it's barbecue?"

"That's about the same."

Li Yi smiled, and then continued: "Actually, the history of char siew in Cantonese cuisine recipes is not that long. It started to rise in Yangcheng around the 20th year of Daoguang."

Hearing him call out the year, Wen Song on the side was surprised: "How do you know that Daoguang started in 20 years?"

"It's all in the book."

Li Yi said with a smile: "The development of char siu is actually closely related to roast goose technology.

There is a saying in the roast meat industry, which is called roast goose in the first oven and char siu in the tail oven. The char siew is usually roasted behind the roast goose.

Therefore, if you want to judge when the rise of barbecued pork, you can know when the rise of Cantonese-style roast goose.

The technique of Cantonese-style roast goose originated from the famous court dish of Jinling, hand-cooked roast duck.

At the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, the imperial cook of Jiankang Mansion followed Song Emperor Zhao Bing's anti-Yuan army to Xinhui, Guangdong Province.

Later, because of the failure of the Yamen naval battle, the imperial chefs were scattered in various places in Xinhui, and the technique of roasting duck spread in Xinhui.

There are many geese in Xinhui, so it was later improved to eat roast goose.

However, Xinhui Roast Goose was not spread in Guangdong Province until 20 years before Daoguang. It was introduced to Yangcheng 20 years after Daoguang and gradually spread. "

Listening to Li Yi's narration, everyone present was fascinated, as if they were listening to a story.

Duozhuan also pays attention to flattery. Hearing Li Yi's tone paused, Tang Jianjun added: "Why? Didn't it spread in the Southern Song Dynasty? Why didn't it spread in Daoguang?"

"Because before the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Huaiyang cuisine had always been the mainstream of court cuisine, and the royal chefs in the palace were all selected from the Huaiyang area to enter the palace."

Li Yi handed the steel wire ball to Wu Lei, and continued: "As a leader, Huaiyang cuisine is valued in the court, and the officials below all value Huaiyang cuisine, and the same is true among the people.

Twenty years before Daoguang, in the high-end restaurants in Yangcheng, most of the chefs were controlled by government chefs brought by officials who went south.

Even high-end restaurants run by locals will not easily hand over their kitchens to local chefs, so local Cantonese cuisine has never been able to occupy the official mainstream position. "

Wu Lei scrubbed the carbonized layer on the pig's head with a steel wool ball. He didn't realize why he started doing the work unconsciously. He was still looking at Li Yi and asked curiously, "What about Daoguang 20 years later?"

"Then I have to mention one person. His name is Wen Xun. He was one of the four Hakka talents in Meizhou in the Qing Dynasty. He was a native of Dengshe Xiatan Village in Changle. He edited the Changle County Chronicle."

Li Yi washed his hands and explained: "However, his greatest contribution to the culinary world is that he took the lead in setting up a kitchen in Henan, which is now Haizhu District, where he taught the local cooking techniques of Guangdong Province and cultivated a large number of Yangcheng chefs. children.

In the 20th year of Daoguang, because of the outbreak of war, Yangcheng was the first to bear the brunt, so many yamen chefs of high-end restaurants returned to their hometowns to seek refuge.

In order to operate normally, the owner of a high-end restaurant in Yangcheng had to appoint young people from Yangcheng who had just completed their studies to preside over the overall situation.

Since then, Yangchengzizi has become the mainstay of local high-end restaurants, and local Cantonese cuisine has begun to emerge.

It was at that time that the roast goose technique of Xinhui was introduced to Yangcheng, and it was at that time that barbecued pork emerged in Yangcheng. "

Listening to Li Yi's description, everyone present seemed to understand half understood, but they still couldn't help sighing: "It seems that the dishes from different regions have been mixed together!"

"Cantonese roast goose is actually passed down from Jinling. This is the first time I've heard of it."

"The history of Cantonese cuisine is not as long as that of Huaiyang cuisine, but it is the main reason why it has gone abroad and become popular all over the world."

Li Yi said with a smile: "Cantonese cuisine is a fusion of Kyoto style, Suzhou style, Yangzhou stir fry, local dishes, and even Western styles.

In Cantonese cuisine, the oven-dried duck and fried chicken are the recipes of Jinling. The dry-roasted abalone and barbecued pork leg are also influenced by Sichuan cuisine. In terms of dim sum, they also absorb the essence of Huaiyang cuisine, such as soup dumplings and siu mai.

In the [-]th year of Xianfeng, the first western restaurant was opened in Yangcheng again. Cantonese chefs also learned western recipes and created new delicacies made in western dishes such as milk salad, baked lobster with butter, and dry fried salad.

Cantonese-style meals such as egg tarts, lotus paste buns, and taro buns are also improved on the basis of butter crisps, cheese buns, and cream buns in West Point.

It is because people from anywhere in the world can find their favorite delicacies in Cantonese cuisine, so there is a saying that they eat in Yangcheng. "

Listening to Li Yi's description, Wu Lei exclaimed: "Eh? That's right! When I had Cantonese morning tea, I felt that egg tarts, pineapple buns, and custard buns tasted like Western food. So early Cantonese food It has already integrated the essence of Western food!"

"It's all about economic development."

Li Yi explained: "At that time, foreigners could only do business in the Yangcheng area, so merchants from all over the world gathered in the Thirteen Banks.

The flow of local goods and people has accelerated the blending of local flavors.

At that time, most of the people who came to Yangcheng to be officials brought their own chefs with them.

But once the officials left, chefs from all over the world would open restaurants in Yangcheng.

Cuisines from all over the world are blending in Yangcheng, which makes the flavor of Cantonese cuisine more and more abundant. "

In the live broadcast room, the audience also listened intently and chatted enthusiastically.

"No wonder when I eat roast goose in Guangdong Province, it feels very similar to the roast duck in Jinling. It turns out that it comes from the same source!"

"It feels like Cantonese cuisine is like giving back to the other. Other cuisines can learn from it, and they can also create their own characteristics."

"The only shortcoming of Cantonese cuisine is that it is not spicy anymore. If there are spicy dishes, it will be perfect."

"Who says Cantonese food isn't spicy? People from Shaoguan express dissatisfaction!"

"If you come to Nanxiong and try it, you will know whether it is spicy or not. People in Jiangxi Province are afraid of it. Believe it or not?"

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(End of this chapter)