Tibetan Mastiff Notes

Chapter 26 Wolf kills wolf (3)
This boy Dajie is much thicker than his father, with tight muscles and heavy bones. In addition, both of them are wearing thick clothes, carrying a lot of equipment, and the terrain is dangerous. After a few minutes of tossing, they didn't get out.Dajie shouted at me: "No way! The backpack is stuck and it is already falling!" Uncle Xianba shouted at Dajie: "Quickly untie the backpack, untie the backpack!"

Dajie's waist and lower body were stuck in the ice crevasse, but his hands were free. He tried his best to untie the backpack behind him. The backpack was heavy, and it was stuck on the back edge of the ice crevasse. As soon as he untied it, he fell immediately go down.As soon as I heard the snow clumps falling down, I leaned forward hastily, grabbed Dajie's hand, and pulled him out with all my might.

The three of them finally breathed a sigh of relief, and they were all in a cold sweat from the thrill, what should they do?Continue to go up?Uncle Xianba and Dajie looked at each other, and Dajie said: "Climb, we've come to this point."

We held the small ice ax in our hands and tapped the ice and snow with the small ice ax to find a firm place to fix the center of gravity while climbing up.

More than three hours later, Dajie suddenly said that he couldn't hold it anymore and wanted to pee because he lost his equipment bag. Dajie was the most relaxed of the three of us, so he turned around and was in the snow. It's convenient to start here.The process of urinating is also a way for the body to dissipate heat. When the wind blows over, Dajie shivered from the cold, and suddenly he cried out in surprise: "Daddy, brother, come and have a look, you who have urinated The snow all over the place has melted." Uncle Xianba said, "That's so strange."

I knew that Dajie's surprise was definitely not because his urine melted a piece of snow, so I walked over to have a look. Dajie pointed to his feet and said, "Look, there is a hat."

This is a red cashmere hat, tightly woven, and has been frozen into a whole lump of ice by the snow. This soft hat should be worn under the hiking hat to keep warm, because of some circumstances, The mountaineering hat was swept away by the wind, and the inner hat was also torn off by the wind.Now that the hat is found, it is enough to prove that those people have traveled the same route as us, and we are getting closer to them. Maybe those people are hiding somewhere above to avoid the wind and snow.

Seeing a little bit of hope, my heart suddenly brightened up, and now my vision is much better. Although the blizzard is still blowing, it is already much better than Yingfengpo.I divided the equipment into two halves, carried a bag by myself, and Dajie carried the tent on his back, and then climbed up at a faster speed.

More than an hour passed, and the terrain above was not easy to walk on. It was a slope sticking out, and there were no roads on the left or right.If we want to go up, we have to climb up, but the slope looks like it is hanging in the air, hanging alone on the mountain wall, it is very likely that it is just a piece of snow blown out by the wind, and there is some place to stay below nor.

I was the fastest and walked in the front. Uncle Xianba and Dajie were about ten steps away from me. I tentatively poked the snow slope with my snow pole, and a few pieces of snow fell down. .I continued to knock with the snow pole, and several large pieces of snow fell off. The innermost snow was very tight, and I knocked it down again, and it stopped falling.I used a small ice ax to dig a small hole in the hard snow, inserted the small ice ax tightly, and climbed up.I was the first to turn up, and Uncle Xianba and Dajie followed suit. Once we turned over this snow slope, we were pleasantly surprised to find that there seemed to be a small red dot floating far ahead.Uncle Xianba reminded us immediately, saying: "The little red dot is located in a depression near the edge of the ice cliff. It is safe for the time being, but it is not easy to climb up. They may go with us. It's not a route, they went up from the windward side, and the hats were blown off by the wind after climbing up."

I was very happy in my heart. Seeing that floating little red dot proved that my judgment was correct. There were indeed people on the top of the mountain, but I didn’t know if those people were still alive.I climbed up quickly, and Dajie also told me that the road above is not easy to walk, it is a straight slope, we must use the ascender, but one person must climb up first and find a firm fixed point .I immediately took over this task, found a suitable first climbing point, held a small ice ax in my left hand, held the ice pick in my right hand, and gripped the hard ice with the crampons on both feet, using the climbing skills I had learned before, With the strength of the waist and legs, climb up little by little.

This seemingly simple movement actually consumes almost [-]% of the strength of the human body, because the body is almost vertical, and the center of gravity adds gravity, which makes climbing very difficult, and the ice surface is very slippery, and the ice pick is not in the right place. The face will shatter, and the body will fall.

This straight slope is 30 meters long. I climbed carefully on it, my body stuck to the ice, looking like a not very good-looking Spider-Man.The most important thing is the waist injury. After the cold weather, and after climbing for almost two days, the muscles of the whole body are tense. When climbing vertically, the waist needs to use a lot of force. Feel the soreness in your muscles.

When I climbed to more than ten meters, I felt that my body was falling to the other side. The ice and snow inserted by the small ice ax shattered. Now only the ice pick is supporting my body. I hastily used a small ice ax to stick upwards, pulled myself up first, and then continued to climb.

The people below are probably also terrified, but they can't help anything, they can only watch me move up with difficulty in fear.Fortunately, I was lucky, there were no other accidents, and after four or 10 minutes, I finally climbed up.The weight is not the problem, and the technology is not the key. The biggest difficulty is time. The longer the time is dragged on, the more physically weak I feel. I quickly found a tight fixed point, laid down the anchor, tied the ascending rope, and then threw it go down.

23. Only one scream was heard

Both Uncle Xianba and Dajie are good at using ascenders. They know how to use the knots skillfully, and use the strength of their legs to climb up quickly, which is much shorter and saves a lot of time than my bare-handed climbing. physical strength.When the three of us reunited, we were all gasping for air, and the oxygen shortage was getting worse and worse. We were like fish jumping out of the water. Every time we took a breath, we had to open our mouths wide and desperately suck in for a while.

We have only been on this Tianzi Peak for less than two days, and it feels like a year, and the plight of those people is really more worrying.I rested for a few minutes and took a sip of water. The water bottle in my backpack was freezing cold. When I took it out, I shook it, as if I heard the sound of ice cubes shaking inside.

The higher the height, the harder it is to walk. The demand for oxygen is a big problem. If the oxygen supply of the human body is insufficient, the movement will be more sluggish.At four o'clock in the afternoon, we climbed to an altitude of about 180 meters, and the small red dot in front of us could already be seen clearly, as if a large piece of tent cloth covered something below.Those who were covered under the tent should be the people who called for help. In order to keep out the wind, they had to remove the tent cloth to cover their bodies. I don’t know if they were frozen or not, and whether they could breathe. Once you fall asleep, it will be difficult to wake up again.

The wind was very strong on the top of the mountain, and I shouted upwards, but I couldn’t hear it from above. I suddenly thought of the wireless walkie-talkie, took it out, and tried to adjust the frequency. Unfortunately, there was no signal, and there was only rustling sound from inside. Those people may be trying to save electricity. Turn off the intercom.I casually inserted the walkie-talkie into the leggings, and the three of them continued to climb up. After climbing less than 20 meters, suddenly an intermittent and heavy voice came from the walkie-talkie: "Helpme! Iamhere"

Dajie shouted in surprise: "Look! The people above are still alive!"

We all found the people above, they had lifted the tent cloth, stood up supporting each other, and waved at us from a distance, maybe they just turned on the walkie-talkie and heard our voice from inside.We were all overjoyed, it was a miracle that those people were still alive, and we speeded up the climb, and the voices of those people weeping with joy came from the intercom.

One of the three spoke Chinese, though it sounded stilted, and said: "Equipment is missing and the rope has been blown away by the wind. One has a broken leg and all food last night, and one I have already coughed up blood, and I also have a severe cold, my nose is always runny, and my throat is almost speechless."

Although we can already see each other, the short distance to climb still seems so long. Those people are trapped at an altitude of about 300 meters, and we have to climb another 100 meters.

Two hours later, it was already past six o'clock in the evening, the sky was getting dark, the blizzard still hadn't stopped, and the top of the mountain was even more severe.We finally climbed up and stood near the top of the mountain. Although the mountain is not as high as Mount Everest, its steepness is indeed the most unforgettable of all my climbing experiences.We finally found the three trapped.

During the conversation, I realized that they did not intend to climb the snow-capped mountains, they just came to climb when it happened to be snowing, and the equipment was not the equipment for climbing the snow-capped mountains.It turned out that there were two men and two women, but unfortunately, halfway through the climb, there was a heavy snowstorm, and the equipment was lost. A woman died unfortunately, and it was at the place where Dajie was stuck.They originally wanted to retreat down the mountain, but it is easy to go up the mountain and difficult to go down, so they can only continue to climb up. After reaching the top, they can go down a slope on the side through the descender. Something happened to the card.

The person fell from the crack. Because she was a woman, she was a little thinner and had the lightest equipment. The ice walls on both sides could not catch her, and she didn't know where the body fell. Only a scream was heard. The echoes were drowned out by the wind and snow.

Among the three surviving people, a woman named Catherine suffered frostbite on her legs. She was stuck on the way of climbing with the ascender, and her calf was hit by the ice falling from it, causing extensive bruises.Jonathan is Catherine's boyfriend, and he is also the most optimistic one so far. He just has a bad cold, has a runny nose, and has lost his voice.They were both very young, in their 20s.The other is in his thirties, named Carter.After questioning, I found out that he is from New York, USA, and is a reporter for The New York Times. Because of a big conflict between the boss and the promotion issue, he gave himself a long vacation in a fit of anger, and that's why he came here Climbing the snow mountain, the one who died was his wife, his parents and a seven-year-old daughter at home.

Carter was the most injured. The altitude sickness and cold, coupled with the lack of water and food, made him suffer from terrible pulmonary edema. The medicine bag fell into the snow cave again. Yesterday he was only coughing and wheezing, but this morning he started coughing up blood .The death of his wife was a great blow to him. If Jonathan and Catherine hadn't been encouraging him, Carter almost wanted to give up his life.Jonathan's Chinese is very blunt, and he doesn't know much. He can't fully understand what we said to him, so I have to talk to him in English, but I don't know how to translate some mountain climbing essentials and mechanical terms , and finally had to tell them: "Followme!"

Uncle Xianba took out food to replenish their physical strength, and we also took a rest for a while and ate something. Although the water was freezing cold, it was still drinkable.Fortunately, Aunt Xianba works at the medical station in the town. Before going out, Uncle Xianba brought some medicine for treating high altitude pulmonary edema—Rhodiola Capsules in his backpack. Carter’s coughing up blood was temporarily relieved, but still Not out of danger.It was already dark, and we had to go down the mountain quickly, to a place with a slightly higher oxygen content, so that Carter could save his life.

Catherine's legs were bruised by the ice and numb from the cold, and she could hardly walk, which was very difficult for us.The most difficult thing was that it was slowly getting dark, and we must not spend the night on the top of the mountain.

Uncle Xianba proposed a good method. Now that you have reached the top of the mountain, you can go down the gentler slope on the other side, but you have to use descenders and ropes.It doesn't matter if Catherine can't walk, as long as her hands are still strong and she can use the descender flexibly.

Jonathan and his climbing equipment fell into the snow cave, and some of them were lost halfway. All that was left around him was a roll of tent carried by Catherine, and Dajie’s equipment bag fell into the crevasse. Now only Uncle Xianba and I The equipment is still there, but it needs to be used by six people to go down the mountain.

I began to distribute the equipment. Uncle Xianba gave Jonathan the ice pick, Dajie could only use the snow pole, my small ice pick was given to Catherine, and the ice pick was given to Carter.In order to prevent slipping, each of us untied a crampon from our feet and distributed them to the three Americans. The rest of our hopes rested on the descenders carried by Uncle Xianba.

I helped Uncle Xianba lay the fixed points, put on the main rope, and then check whether everyone's seat belts are fastened.While wearing seat belts, Catherine and Jonathan get into an argument, and the two disagree.Jonathan insisted on fastening it tighter. Catherine just fastened the seat belt loosely because of her leg pain. Jonathan said it would be dangerous. It was dark and I couldn’t see anything clearly, so it had to be fastened tight. Catherine said That's ok, it's all within the bounds of safety.

I really don't understand, foreigners are like this, they can argue over trivial matters, not to mention that the two of them are boyfriend and girlfriend, without any humility and harmony of the Chinese.Even Carter couldn't take it anymore, and stepped forward to stop him, only to find that there was something wrong with his seat belt. The three of them quarreled together for some reason. The sky was already dark, and life and death were at stake. .

Suddenly, a large section of snow-white things fell down in the dark night sky, followed by the sound of falling snow blocks, and a large section of falling snow blocks hit the edge of the cliff next to it, and fell to the ground with a bang. Crush, snow powder splashes everywhere.The world suddenly became so silent, everyone was terrified, there was no other sound except breathing, and they didn't dare to open their mouths even for panting.

Dajie whispered to his father in Tibetan: "Foreigners are such a fucking trouble, if you talk too much, just throw them on top!"

Carter's seat belt was twisted, I helped him readjust it, and reminded them: "If there is any disagreement, we can discuss it after going down the mountain. Now everything is under my command, including the method of fastening the seat belt and The downhill route, you can only obey now, without protesting."

The three of them didn't speak. The big piece of broken snow just now could almost cause a larger avalanche. Everyone knew in their hearts how severe the avalanche was. No one quarreled or talked anymore. The world became so silent. , It was so silent that you could hear the beating of each other's hearts.

Uncle Xianba and I discussed the method of descent and possible unexpected situations in various aspects, and decided to implement interspersed descents. Dajie went down first and took care of him below, then Jonathan, then Uncle Xianba, and then Carter, followed by Catherine.I was the last to go down after Catherine, because Catherine was injured, so it would be easier to protect her.

We turned on the light on the hat, and Dajie was the first to descend. After reaching the first foothold, he untied the rope and descender on his body, and then adjusted the light on the hat upwards to shine on the main rope. In the direction, we waved to the top, probably because we thought we couldn’t see clearly, so we shook the rope a few more times.

When Jonathan descended, because he was anxious to get out of danger, he secretly adjusted the connection between the descender and the rope before descending.I could see that this guy wanted to do downhill, and the speed of the descent was obviously faster than I pre-regulated.However, Jonathan ran into trouble when he descended halfway. Due to various psychological reasons, the speed of the descent was adjusted too fast. The claws pressed against the cold snow wall, but the feet got stuck.

Seeing Jonathan struggling in the mid-air, we were all very anxious, but I was more worried about his safety. If the handling method was improper and caused accidental casualties, this can only be said to be my responsibility. I did not stop before he descended. Check his equipment again.It can be seen that Jonathan is a quick-tempered person. He struggled hard to pull his right foot out. After struggling for a long time, the foot broke free, but the boot remained in the ice crevice, and there was no way to take it out. He had to Glide quickly with your bare right foot to the first foothold.I checked Carter and Catherine's seat belts and descenders again to make sure there were no mistakes before letting Carter down.Because of his weak constitution, Carter suffered from pulmonary edema, and he seemed to be in a bad mood.In order to take care of him so that no accidents happened, Uncle Xianba went down immediately. Fortunately, both of them went smoothly and nothing happened.

When it was Catherine's turn, she frowned and bent over to cover her two legs. Her legs were bruised extensively, and she didn't know if her bones were hurt. She was so painful that she couldn't stand up, and she just sat there on the snow.It seemed a little difficult for her to go down with the help of the descender. During the descent, she had to incline her body by about [-] degrees and use her legs to hold onto the snow wall to maintain her balance. She probably couldn't bear it.

I encouraged her and asked her to stand up and give it a try. It was already dark, and we had to go down anyway. There was still a long mountain road below, and we had to descend to the pass halfway up the mountain to set up a tent and go down the mountain early tomorrow morning. ,time is life.

(End of this chapter)