If you don't go far, you'll be old 2

Chapter 9 Rwanda: Taste Like Chocolate

Rwanda has always tasted like chocolate. One day she was suddenly bitten by someone, and the wound was bloodshot. Over the years, she has been trying to heal the trauma.

the taste of this chocolate
I wanted to go to Rwanda, initially because of a movie called "Hotel Rwanda".

The genocide in Rwanda in 1994 has made people firmly remember this small East African country whose name can hardly be found on the world map, and the appalling ethnic cleansing.When I read about this tragic massacre in the book, and this "Hotel Rwanda" movie, when I traveled all the way to East Africa, I decided to come to Rwanda to see it.And now, she is in front of me.

After stamping the exit stamp of Uganda, the national flag of Rwanda with blue, yellow and green stripes is flying 200 meters ahead.I bounced to the entry point of the Rwanda port, followed the appearance of the American soldiers, turned around and saluted the Ugandan flag, and blew a kiss: Oh, goodbye, Uganda!

"Thank you for your approval number." The staff of the Rwanda Immigration Department pointed to the blank space on the form.

"Examination...approval number? Isn't it a visa on arrival?" I asked timidly.

"It is a visa on arrival, but you must first make an appointment on the official website, and after passing the approval, you can sign on arrival with the approval number."

Suddenly dumbfounded.I only know that Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, and Tanzania are all five East African countries that can get visas on arrival, but I don’t know that Rwanda is the only "conditional visa on arrival" among the five East African countries.In normal times, I, who have always been cautious about visas, would naturally check the information on the Internet early.But since entering sub-Saharan Africa, the Internet has become a rarity, and before I know it, I haven't touched a wireless network in days.

Looking at the passport that had already been stamped with the Ugandan exit stamp, I pleaded with the staff in my last hope, but to no avail.This is the first time I have encountered such a thing, but I am not allowed to enter the port of a country that allows visa-on-arrival.

When I learned that it would take three working days to complete the approval, my eyes widened, and my mind was running fast.

What to do now, return to Uganda?I have already stamped the exit stamp, can I still go back?Is it an old visa or a new visa on arrival fee?After returning, should we wait for the approval in a small border town, or simply change the route and go directly to Tanzania?If you are waiting for approval, if there is no result before the weekend, don't you have to wait until the weekend is over?That's long enough for me to move to Tanzania.My Rwanda, just give up on her...

"I advise you, you should apply on the official website first and ask for an expedited request. Come back tomorrow and see, maybe it will be approved." A guy at the immigration office unplugged his network cable and handed it to me as he spoke. Complete the application.Another guy took out his phone and lent it to me, asking me to call the headquarters for urgent approval.I was afraid that I would not be at ease, so I sent an email to the headquarters for me, and asked for an urgent request again.

After such a toss, I feel that the bird "hope" is flying again.Anyway, it's already like this, let's go through another level tomorrow.I cheered myself up, turned around and walked back into the arms of Uganda.Obviously two hours ago, he still blew a kiss goodbye to her with the feeling that he might never see her again in this life.

The uncle at the Uganda exit office listened to my experience, nodded, and wrote "cancel" (cancelled) on my Uganda exit stamp.

"When you come tomorrow, go to Rwanda first and ask if you can pass. If you can, come back and get the exit stamp."

If things are always so smooth, it is not reality but a fairy tale.Early the next morning, the guy at the Rwanda Immigration Department helped me check the official website and shrugged at me.

Approval not issued.

I was suddenly like a deflated ball, standing at the window with blank eyes and a daze.Looking at the busy crowd in front of me, leaving the country, entering the country, filling out forms, submitting forms... I seem to be an invisible person with nothing to do.

In a remote corner like the land port on the border between Rwanda and Uganda, there are not many East Asian girls for many years.The Rwandan boys at the immigration office couldn't help being curious about this oriental face standing dumbfounded at the port.A group of black lads were advising me.

"Ask the boss and see what can be done..."

"I'll borrow your phone and call the headquarters to ask..."

After a while of chatter, the head of the immigration department—a handsome black boy stood up, waved at me, and signaled me not to worry.Picking up the handset, I made a phone call from the left to the right.The fat guy next to me poked me and whispered, "Don't worry, our boss is calling to plead for you."

Finally, the officer put down the phone.

"There is no major problem. Let's have a cup of hot milk first, I think we need to wait for a while."

In the aisle behind the window office, I was sitting on a chair, holding a cup of warm sweet milk in my hand, and eating delicious chapatis, feeling a little flattered.Passing staff greeted me and chatted with me from time to time.In addition to being busy, the officer also happily listened to my chats about travel experiences.

After waiting about three hours, the officer handed me a freshly printed email, still warm.Looking around, it is the approval I have been waiting for for a long time.

I quickly counted 30 US dollars and handed over the visa fee. This was probably the first time in my life that I paid the money so gratefully.

"You are the only person who has received VIP treatment at this port for many years." The officer grinned, showing his clean white teeth.

Good luck, bad luck.When traveling, you never know what the next piece of chocolate will taste like.

I went back to the Uganda side in good spirits to complete the exit stamp, hummed a little song, kicked forward, and stepped into the border of Rwanda.

The 101st way to die

I unexpectedly discovered that Rwanda, a country that has been firmly tied to "genocide" in my heart for many years, is actually a gorgeous and lush place.

Known as the "Land of Thousand Hills", the entire territory is mountainous, with undulating terrain and winding lanes. For long-distance vehicles, it is either on the way up the mountain or on the way down the mountain.The vegetation is dense and lush.This is a country built on ridges, slopes and valleys.

Lake Kivu in Gisenyi, quiet and elegant, calm and calm, is a wonderful resort.Walking along the avenues of romantic hotels by the lake, you can never imagine that the beautiful lake in front of you is actually a lake that can explode.It is reported that Lake Kivu is currently one of only three known eruptive lakes in the world.The cause is unknown, maybe a volcano.Methane and carbon dioxide are dissolved in the lake water. Once it erupts, a large amount of methane is forced to overflow, which may cause an explosion. The explosion will cause the lake water to release a large amount of carbon dioxide, directly causing people living in the lowlands around Lake Kivu to suffocate to death.However, according to the research of geologists, the eruption cycle of this terrible lake is about 1000 years.If you can be met by me, it will really be "wait once in a thousand years".

If I had known in advance that the dirt road from Gisenyi to Kibuye would be so bumpy, I would probably have taken a better road instead, even if it took a few hours of detour.The bumpy and violently undulating rugged mountain road bullied the van full of passengers. Passengers struggled against the dirt road with a frequency of being bumped once a minute. Their heads hit the roof of the car and their bodies hit the windows. The van was killed by innocent people like us. The passengers hit with flesh and blood, and sooner or later the roof will be cracked by the passenger's head.Every part of her body turned into a concubine vying for the emperor's favor. She wanted to cover her head with her hands, but her arms had nowhere to hide.It was never such a bumpy ride in a pickup truck on the mountain roads in Shannan, Tibet.

Just when I was about to be knocked out, the car drove to the top of the mountain, and the Penglai fairyland suddenly appeared in front of my eyes: arable land all over the mountain, terraced fields, green mountains and green waters, countless hills stretching to the west in all directions, extending to the sky. the end.The lake in the distance is shrouded in clouds and mist, which is both real and illusory, quite a bit "fairy".The children in the nearby village were chasing and playing barefoot on the mountain. When they saw me, a rare animal with an oriental face, they all surrounded me and looked at me carefully from head to toe, as if they were spying on an alien. , I can't wait to see a superhuman being from me. The chances of an "Oriental foreigner" appearing in this small hilltop village are probably lower than bumping into a ghost.

The refreshing scenery and these lively children are not in vain for my few hours of bumps.Just a little bit of comfort in my heart, the road down the mountain began.Due to the slope and speed, it was more bumpy than the uphill road.God, among the hundred ways to die in life, is there one called "death"?
This five-hour bumpy trip made me bump up, down, left, and right, back and forth, almost smashed into meatloaf, my bones fell apart, and I suffered from pain for three days.

Do I want to faint? !
hill city
The capital, Kigali, is the largest city in Rwanda.This "hilly city" built on a mountain stretches over more than a dozen hills. The mountains are connected and surrounded by hills. When you open the door, you will see the mountains.Standing in the central area of ​​Kigali, no matter which direction you look, there are rolling hills in the distance.Finding a level road here is definitely a technical job.

A few high-rises scattered in the city center, as well as a sprawling mass of construction sites on the hills, are reminders of its capital's identity.Motorbikes shuttled through the streets, and the drivers wore uniform uniform vests.These motorcycles are equivalent to taxis, and motorcycle rental is almost the most common means of transportation in this city.The motorcycles were parked in a small area set by the side of the road in an orderly manner, and the drivers rode neatly on the motorcycles, waiting for the arrival of the next passenger.

Before going out, I used to think that riding a motorcycle was the last thing I would want to do in the world. Any idle thing would have a higher priority than this one, because I didn’t trust motorcycles, and I always felt that disturbed.However, in Rwanda, where public transport is underdeveloped and taxis are rare, I had to break the taboo for many years, get on a motorcycle, and pull the driver's coat across the road like lightning.I have to say, the feeling of galloping on a motorcycle is hearty, what a cool word.Therefore, my fear of motorcycles has gradually faded.I remember that I couldn't take a cold shower before going out. The cold feeling was really terrible.Later, after living in a small hotel in Sri Lanka without hot showers, I was forced to take cold showers for more than [-] consecutive days, and I gradually got used to it, and found that taking cold showers has a special refreshing feeling different from hot showers.During the trip, the things that I once thought I could not accept in this life were broken one by one. Thinking about it, long-distance travel is just such a process-the process of gradually breaking the seemingly hard shell of the tightly wrapped man, and let Try things that you thought would be impossible, and stretch the breadth of your life since then.

"The cheapest hotel...the most-cheap-cheap-" Looking at the confused eyes of the black boy, I repeated this simple English sentence loudly.

Rwanda is a French-speaking country, and the penetration rate of French is much higher than that of English.If the locals knew a language besides Kinyarwanda, it would be French.

The little brother pondered for a while, then suddenly showed an expression of enlightenment, wrote down the name of the store, stretched out his finger, and pointed firmly in one direction.I walked in the direction, and a big hotel suddenly appeared in front of my eyes. By the way, it was really here.When I asked someone, I almost fainted: This is the most expensive hotel in the area.

In a country where neither the first language nor the second language can be communicated, it doesn't matter how good a traveler's English is. How well you can communicate does not depend on your English level, but on the other party.

Once you've found the right place to stay, it's time to treat your growling tummy.The most common small restaurants in Rwanda are very similar to domestic fast food shops.Potato cubes, potato cubes, stewed beans, beef, chicken, vegetables, rice, pasta and more than a dozen kinds of vegetables are placed on different large dinner plates. You can hold the plates yourself or ask the staff to serve them. it is good.Self-service is a few yuan more expensive than the latter, because there is no limit to the portion, suitable for men with large appetites.After the food is packed, the waiter writes the total price on a small note for the guest to review. After getting the guest's approval, he turns the note over and places it in front of the guest's plate. After the meal is finished, he takes the note to check out.The reason for doing this is probably that it is very impolite to show the side with the price to other diners, which is exactly the same as the practice in western restaurants.

I don't like spicy food, I asked the restaurant owner to add some chili, the boss nodded, and handed me a small plastic bottle, which is exactly the same as the common eye drops bottle in China.Isn't this really eye drops, cough drops, or some unknown potion?

I squinted my eyes and carefully studied the sticker on the small bottle. I couldn't understand Kinyarwanda and French, but the English note clearly said "chili oil".Squeeze out a little, toss in pasta, have a bite, yo ho!Spicy enough!It's really genuine chili oil, quite spicy and refreshing to eat.

A Hong Kong martial arts movie was playing on the small TV. Watching the people in the movie were so excited that even the spaghetti in my mouth had an oriental taste.

Rwanda Hotel

The brilliance of human nature coexists with darkness, kindness coexists with cruelty, protection coexists with destruction, and mission coexists with evil.

I write this a few years ago when I saw the movie Hotel Rwanda for the first time.Filmed in 2004 by the UK, South Africa, Canada and Italy, the film tells the story of a Hutu hotel manager, Paul Russabakina, who managed to save 1994 bitmaps during the genocide in Rwanda in 1268. The true story of a Western refugee.Although the movie was shot in South Africa, the prototype of the hotel in the movie is the Hotel Des Mille Collines in the center of Kigali, the capital of Rwanda.

I don't have the financial means to stay in this [-] star hotel, I just visited as a movie buff.When I walked to the gate, I was still hesitating, how should I explain my "break-in" to the security guard.After thinking about it, I am the "foreigner" here, and the security guard didn't know if I was a hotel guest, so he walked in and walked around.As trespassing, I was embarrassed to go across the lobby to the other side, where I heard there is indeed a swimming pool, as described in the movie.

The Holocaust Memorial Center in Kigali, the capital, is a memorial hall specially built for the 1994 massacre. It warns people with facts: Never do that again!The heart is extremely heavy when visiting the memorial center.From time to time, there were long sighs from visitors from all over the world.The 100 million corpses left after the massacre, the bones everywhere, the crying of children... What is even more frightening is that hundreds of thousands of Tutsi women and Hutu women who intermarried with Tutsi were raped, and the executors Often men with HIV, this is also for the complete extermination of the next generation of Tutsis!In the video, a Tutsi woman recounts that the Hutu woman who helped her was killed by the army on the spot... Rwanda in 1994 was once a real hell.

The Holocaust has also become the object of study by psychologists and sociologists, a classic example of the collective unconscious.What is it that makes people who are peaceful and kind on weekdays pick up machetes that they have never used before, hack their wives, neighbors, and son's friends to death in a pool of blood, and turn them into demons and beasts?
Now Rwanda has gradually recovered from that haze.But for those who have experienced it, the scars in their hearts will probably never be erased...

A heavy heart tried to drive me on the road, sitting in the car listening to "A Million Voices" (the theme song from the movie "Hotel Rwanda"), Wycliff Jean sang in a sad voice: If America can be the United States of America , why can't the peoples of Africa unite into a United States of Africa?Since England can become the United Kingdom of Great Britain, why can't the people of Africa unite to become a United Kingdom of Africa?
Rwanda, who heard you cry?

(End of this chapter)