Tang Dynasty Crossing Guide: Chang'an and People's Life Manual

Chapter 23 Chang'an Trendy Women's Guide (2)
Everyone wants to gain weight, gaining weight is not easy.Overeating, sleeping more and moving less are of course the most fundamental solutions.But even if your family has the conditions to provide you with three meals a day, roasted fat lamb and oatmeal rice, and crispy sweets and glutinous rice cakes, it still takes time and patience to gain weight.

Is there a quick way to gain weight?Of course there is!Choosing a suitable dress can make you look 20 pounds fatter in no time!
In the past, the waist of the pomegranate skirt, no matter how high it was to the side, or even to the breasts, as long as the belt was tied tightly, the thin waist was always invisible.A smart girl will hang the straps around her shoulders to her belly to cover up, and she hates the wind blowing silk, and the truth will be revealed immediately.

I don't know when, the myrobalan, which has been quietly popular in the self-restraint, and paired with a breast-length skirt, can just save the tear-soaked quilt mats of the "flying swallows".

Mysterious, fragrant and taboo legends may be regarded as a successful marketing strategy.The truth is, after cutting a pair of myrobalan satin, stitching it tightly with skillful hands to create a three-dimensional hemispherical curve, and then lining it with a hard lining to wrap around the chest and upper body, no matter whether the lining is empty or solid, that area has finally risen.

On top of the breast enlargement, put on a skirt waist, and the under breasts will flutter, dragging straight to the ground.As for the richness and richness of the skin behind the swaying bright skirt, it is a beauty that is only for outsiders to imagine.

Menswear is hot!Two rabbits walk side by side, can you tell if I'm male or female?

From the founding of the Tang Dynasty to the present, the evolution of ladies' go-out clothes can best reveal the boldness of ladies, and make the foreheads of Confucian masters angry.

Many lovers of retro styles still remember the mysterious and graceful figure on the horse's back when Princess Changle was traveling during the Zhenguan period.

Wide-eaved felt hats, with a long circle of soap gauze around the eaves, completely wrapping Yuyan's body in the gauze silk, the shadows are so faint that passers-by can't see her true face.The noble master of the heavenly family has his own reserved demeanor.But also because of this, when she died young, there was no clear image left, which made future generations sigh.

The dignified and conservative during the Zhenguan period had its reasons for the background of the times, needless to say.With the advent of the Queen's Era, ladies have shortened their soap gauze, only covering their face and neck, showing their beautiful body curves while galloping on horseback.

Things like fashion have always been banned but not stopped, and the more they are controlled, the more popular they become.The short veil hat has been criticized, that’s good, just throw it away, let Ruyun’s hair bun and gorgeous face be exposed in broad daylight, just like this. Look at the old masters, there are too many nosebleeds, it’s already Fainted.

Changed the veiled cap, and threw away the veiled cap. Not only did she show her face, she even blatantly lowered her breasts and exposed her breasts—I tell you to show them!Call you Lou!Let's see where you will show up in the future!The old masters cursed bitterly and looked forward to it angrily, so the ladies responded with actions—we stopped wearing them.

Don't get me wrong, I don't wear women's clothes anymore.

The black gauze head is wrapped in a high bun, the round-necked gown ① is worn on the delicate body, and the sash belt ② is tied around the waist, with the thin strands hanging from the small holes on the belt, and the leather bag ③, the needle cylinder, and the meat-cutting knife are tied , put on the black leather boots, jumped out of the door and mounted the horse, shouting and shouting, heroic and heroic, as if Princess Pingyang Zhao was reincarnated.

Women wearing men's clothing, first became popular from court ladies to maidservants in noble families, and finally women could not resist the temptation of this unique style, took off their shirts and skirts, and put on robes and boots.After getting tired of looking at the complicated attire with full hairpins and layered skirts, the simple and tough style of men's clothing is really refreshing.

Futou, round-neck gown, black boots, no matter how the colors change, the style of men's clothing is monotonous after all.It has been popular for a while, and the girls with changeable natures have created various effects for men's clothing.

The bright striped women's trousers are quietly exposed in the gaps of the round-neck robes; or the hard boots are replaced with soft sneakers, which seems to be worn in a hurry, but it does not have a careless and lazy charm.There is also the style leader who is at the forefront of fashion trends, with the most feminine spirit snake bun on his head, there is no shortage of hairpins, combs and flowers, thick eyebrows and lip makeup, and a masculine coat on his body. robe.What?Mr. Lang said I turned my clothes upside down?Then you can correct it.

This winter, when you see the backs of two robes and belts on the streets of Chang'an, it would be presumptuous to go up and call them "Lang Jun".Maybe the one who turns to look at you is a pair of rouge faces with light eyebrows and light dimples. From the fresh cherry lips, Jiao Didi spits out a sentence: "You are the lord, and all of your family are lords." So a romantic affair begins. .

Hu Fu steals the spotlight, who is the most dazzling on the streets of Chang'an?
The popularity of Hufu in the Central Plains did not appear recently.

①The round-necked gown, the representative men’s clothing of the Tang Dynasty, was worn daily by the emperor to the peasants. Seam, so it is called "quee".

②The belt, a kind of belt introduced from the grassland nomads to the Central Plains, with holes inlaid on the belt, and various portable objects attached to it. It was once stipulated in the Tang Dynasty that civil and military officials must wear this kind of belt when going to court, and wear a hanging counting bag , Knife, whetstone, syringe and other seven items, commonly known as "Seven things about the 蹀躞".

③Leather bag, a small bag made of leather or cloth, hung on the waist, and some small personal belongings are placed in the bag.

④Princess Pingyang Zhao, the third daughter of Li Yuan, the founding emperor of the Tang Dynasty, and the same mother and sister of Li Shimin. The court generally called her "Princess Pingyang Zhao".Yuchi Yiseng, a painter in the early Tang Dynasty, once painted a portrait of Princess Pingyang riding a horse with an arrow. She is a representative of heroic women.

More than one person has asked, why are the patterns and colors of Hufu so complicated?Especially the tall peaked hat, the collar that hangs down from the shoulders to the ground, and the wide sleeves with narrow cuffs, the fine patterns are dizzying, and it is hard to imagine how it was woven.

Why do Hu people prefer complex and eye-catching clothing materials?Is it because of their hometown, and the scenery they experienced on the way to Chang'an, are all big blocks of monotonous colors?
Silver snow-capped mountains, deep green forests, tender green grasslands, blue lakes, golden deserts, as far as the eye can see, the only living thing in the world is the caravan of camels ringing bells on the commercial road.Among the khaki camel humps, bright silks are stacked one after another, and the more colorful colors on the bodies of the Hu merchants condense all the knowledge on the road.They brought the clothes into the deep mansion in Chang'an, and the noble ladies folded them beside their pillows to dream, believing that they could fly to the Western Regions in their dreams and experience the gorgeous and strong exotic customs for themselves.

In winter in Chang'an, street Hufu is particularly dazzling.

The locust trees on both sides of Suzaku Avenue have lost all their branches and leaves, leaving only bare branches reaching out to the gray sky.The weeds are withered and yellow, the ditches are frozen, and all the magnificent colors of summer fade away in winter.Passers-by's thick coats are also mainly in warm colors such as gray, black, and brown.

At this time, wearing a set of bright Hu clothes, whipping the horse and walking on the street, how high should the rate of turning heads be?
What's more, wearing a Hu suit should be accompanied by a Hu hat, the kind of beard hat with a pointed top and a circle of fluff rolled out of the brim. Most of them are made of soft and warm fur felt, and some have drooping ear protectors on both sides.Even in the coldest days and heavy snowfall, such beard hats are a fashionable and practical choice.

The large lapels of Hufu often give people a sense of airiness that is "only suitable for wearing in summer".Big mistake, the popular lapel this winter has buttons on the hidden place behind the collar corners—when the wind is strong, the lapel is closed, and the button loops are tied to the shoulders, and the lapel robe becomes a dense round neck gown with neck protection.And when people step into the room from the outdoors, the collar is unbuttoned and opened, and the chic and heroic demeanor is instantly reappeared.

This book of clothing and ornaments passed down from the Hu people and the Hu clothes with lapels and embroidered edges are also suitable for the original match.The same goes for striped trousers and hemp shoes.Of course, like men's clothing, women may not be willing to wear a complete set of Hufu honestly, which will lead to rigidity and stagnation.

Mixing and matching is the fashion that is always popular in ancient and modern times.

References & in-depth understanding recommendations for this article:
Na Chunying. Clothing Fashion in the Tang Dynasty. Beijing: China Social Sciences Press, 2009
Shangguan Wan'er endorses with love, this season's new fragrances are on sale, and free sachets are given away!
makeups
Celebrities always have an indissoluble bond with incense, lip balm, eyebrows, and hair combs.

Dressed in hand-crafted Chinese upper bodies, they only put a layer of background on their noble image.The carefully drawn makeup, the dazzling hair accessories in the side of the cloud, and even the faint fragrance from the clothes and skin are the finishing touches to establish a personal style.Either elegant, or glamorous, or luxurious, or rebellious and retro, each style is amazing and will set off a fashion frenzy.

Shangguan Wan'er: Lu Lunong is cold, and the moon is falling on the screen①

Putting down the ink and pen that filled a roll of jute paper just now, Shangguan Wan'er rubbed her wrist and showed a casual smile.

It's hard to tell how much of the smile is professional and how much is genuine.As a young woman who has experienced hardships, her emotions towards people have been reduced to a means of survival since she was thrown into the court as a baby.Talent, quick-wittedness, delicate insights, calmness, and good looks, these are her promotion steps.Her personal enjoyment is compressed in a small and secret place in her life and heart.

Even if she agreed to endorse the newly released "Lily Fragrance ③" this season, she just smiled and ordered the waiter to present a silver box with gilded lotus petals and branches.The lid of the box is opened, and the unique scent of Lily's new fragrance is released.

Wan'er took off the hollowed-out cover on the back of the Golden Duck Incense Stove, and the old incense cakes in the furnace were indeed dry and tasteless.After removing the mica partition, she took the chopsticks ④ and gently fiddled with the snow-like frost ash in the furnace belly.

The seventeen or eighteen exquisite orifices are carefully poked through the incense ashes, reaching the charcoal buried in the ashes, the little live fire that would be smothered by suffocation suddenly becomes bright, and the warmth overflows.Putting down the chopsticks, Wan'er put the piece of mica with delicate and beautiful ice patterns back on the incense ashes, stretched out her slender hand again, with green onion-like jade fingers, picked up a new lily incense from the silver box.

Her fingers are slender, outside the fourth finger, but she has a pen callus that can't fade away.

The incense grains rolled into the mica slices, and were baked by the clean charcoal in the ash below, and the smell became more intense immediately.Wan'er took a breath, smiled and covered the stove cover, and after a while, the golden duck's flat mouth spit out strands of mist that seemed to exist and seemed to disappear.

In the top notes, intense fragrances of agarwood, carapace, clove, chicken bone, incense, white sandalwood and ripe jasmine can be discerned.The middle notes also have the fruity aromas of Lingxiang, Huoxiang, green cinnamon, and white gradual fragrance, and the base notes return to sweetness. It is guessed to be sparrow head, styrax, benzoin, and musk.So many spices were crushed into fine powder, dried in the wine drain, mixed with white honey, and formed into this exquisite fragrant cake. If there is a slight error, the whole batch will be scrapped—so it is reasonable to be so crazy. Bar.

The season focuses on new products, including promotional activities.A silver sachet will be given for every [-] yuan, and the quantity is limited, while supplies last.

This gift, Shangguan Wan'er's bed curtain, also hung one.

①From Shangguan Wan'er's "Colorful Book Complaint"

②Yeting, an area in the Taiji Palace of the Tang Dynasty, was mainly inhabited by maids and slaves.In the Tang Dynasty, there was a regulation that the female relatives of criminals should be imprisoned in Yeting Palace as female slaves.When Shangguan Wan'er was young, her family was confiscated for treason, and she and her mother were fined and sent to Yeting Palace, where they grew up.

③ "Hexiang" refers to the process of mixing various natural spices into new fragrances.

④ Fragrant chopsticks, the ancient people burned incense to bury the spices in the incense burner, and then used something similar to large chopsticks to take care of the spices and ashes.

She unfastened the golden hinge of the sachet from the tassels of the tent. On the outer wall like a silver ball, twelve clusters of evenly distributed clusters of flowers were chiseled, and inside the clusters of flowers were decorated with four moths, decorated with gilt gold.

The two hemispheres' mother and child mouths are lightly opened, and there is a bowl-shaped incense bowl and two rings inside the capsule. The incense bowl is riveted with a short axis, and the inner and outer rings are also riveted with a short axis.When the ball rolls, the inner and outer rings also rotate accordingly, and the incense bowl is always balanced upwards, and the incense charcoal in the bowl will never spill out.Such an ingenious work of art, no matter it is hung in the bed curtain or simply placed in the bed quilt, the endless fragrance in the hollow ball can accompany the owner quietly through the long night.

The moonlight shines through the sachet and pours onto the bed screen, the trembling flower shadows are like the plum blossom between Wan'er's eyebrows.

Aunt Gongsun: Crimson lips, pearl sleeves, and loneliness①

Aunt Gongsun unscrewed the thin blue ivory tube full of flowers and birds in her hand. The bright red color inside the tube, together with the fragrant aroma of fried nails, is alluring.

Stretch the tip of your little finger into the barrel, and with a light touch, the gorgeous lip balm will be brought out.She rubbed it with her backhand, and the originally bright and individual lip shape instantly seemed to ignite a flame.

It is really rare to see such a scene of lip balm being applied in front of everyone, let alone a famous lady who is famous all over the world.But this is Aunt Gongsun, her narrow sleeves are studded with pearls, and she strides down Chang'an Avenue with double swords on her belt, without anyone bothering her.Her phoenix eyes stare coldly, her crimson lips are tightly closed, and her back, pressing the sword, is just like a living portrait of a red wax armor frying mouth fat.

Cinnabar (or comfrey) beeswax is smelted and soaked in color, then poured into Jiajian spices, stirred well, poured into tooth cylinder, and waited for it to condense, it will become a good mouth fat.When using it, take a little out of the tube with your fingertips, and pour it on your lips, so that the smooth ointment can be evenly distributed with the faint fragrance.

In the face of such a powerful fashion, the woman who is still using rouge on her lips, you village is angry.

A piece of tissue paper soaked in red rouge and dried in the sun, whether it is directly sipped with wet lips, or sprinkled with water to wet it on the hairpin head, and then reversed to wipe the lips—the color on the lips is bright, delicate and smooth. The glossiness can't be compared with the creamy lip balm at all.As for the charming breath, let alone.

①From Du Fu's "Watching Gongsun Da Niang's Disciples Dance Swords".

Pomegranate Jiao, Dahongchun, Xiaohongchun, Nen Wuxiang, Banbianjiao, Wanjinhong, Shengtanxin, Luzhuer, Neijiayuan, Tiangongqiao, Luoeryin, Pale Red Heart, Orangutan Halo, Xiao Zhulong, Ge Shuangtang, Meihuanu—such a variety of lip makeup can only be drawn carefully with dexterous fingers dipped in slippery and casual lipstick.

Aunt Gongsun's lip makeup is impatient with so many soft and charming patterns.

You are like Yi shooting the nine sunsets, and you are like the emperors and dragons soaring.

Come like a thunderbolt, stop the wrath, stop like Jiang Hai condenses the light. ①
But I don't know when she retracted her sword and took off her beaded sleeves, did the handsome and handsome man's arm underwear ever leave behind her scarlet lips like blood?
Mrs. Guo: But she dislikes makeup, powder, and color②

Mrs. Guo Guo on the horse laughed loudly.

She was wearing a light blue jacket with narrow sleeves, a white shawl over her shoulders, and a red skirt with gold flowers painted underneath. The red shoes under the skirt and the Japanese bun on her head swayed with laughter.

Turning the yellow puma under the seat, with a cry, he led the team back fiercely.The speed of her horse is a bit difficult, but it is clear that this socialite will never slow down and wait for someone.

It all depends on her mood, if she is willing to answer, she will not shy away from anything, including those two scandalous love affair.

Whether it is a cousin or a brother-in-law, "I am willing, for the rest of my life."

Her young son greeted him in front of the hall, and the mother got off the horse, her waist twisted, and she didn't think there was anything wrong with this coquettish attitude.

She was walking on the corridor, passing through luxurious rooms, and with a smile on her face, she pointed out how many rare treasures were hidden in them.Opening a door casually, the room was covered with leather bags, cloth bags, silk bags, and satin bags like mountains and seas... "It's specially made by Hu merchants in the Western Regions. It takes three years to weave one, and it's worth a million dollars."

When she said this, the one she held in her hand was like snakeskin, very much like the luggage that Tian Shehan carried on his shoulders when he entered the city.

Even this house was snatched at will. "That year, the members of Webster's family were enjoying the cool air in the courtyard. I came in and saw that they looked good, so I asked my servants to drive them away. The ancestors of the Wei family are very good at geomantic omen, and the house is in good luck."

What Madam is going to show today is actually just the eyebrows she has collected.

It was also a big room full, and she gave an order, and the servants opened all the drawers of the cabinets, and then carved snails, exquisitely carved thrushstones, eyebrow inkstones, eyebrow pencils, and shades of various colors dazzled the eyes.

The eyebrow inkstone and eyebrow pencil are shorter and more delicate than ordinary brushes and inkstones.Next to several jade stems and rabbit hairs, there is also a very small Piyong porcelain inkstone, with a convex center, a groove in the round edge, and a short foot underneath.When the thrush graphite is ground in the middle, the ink will flow into the round groove, which is convenient for the eyebrow pencil to pick up.

Decades ago, the best thrush stone was naturally "Shixing Shidai in the south of the Five Ridges".It is said that it comes from the stream water, which is naturally warm and soft, dripping with fragrant dew, and the ground ink is more vivid and satisfying.Mrs. Guo Guo opened a box casually, and it turned out to be Shixing thrushstones carved in the shapes of the twelve zodiac signs.

But these are out of date.Tongdai, Qingquetoudai, Suyandai, these thrush stones made artificially and brought from far away areas have already pushed Shidai out of the popular stage.

The most stored in the room is a "Persian Conch Dai" worth 10 gold.

It comes from the remote Western Regions. It is said that it is mutated from the snail shell in the sea. The thrush that women all over the world dream of is a masterpiece, and it is full of dendrobium in this room.Open the box and take any one from the mountain of snails, the color is blue-gray, fresh and eye-catching.What will the eyebrows drawn in this way look like?

Mandarin duck eyebrow?Small mountain eyebrow?Five eyebrows?Sanfengmei?Drooping eyebrows?Crescent?Divided eyebrows?Han Yanmei?Fuyan eyebrows?Faint eyebrow?
"It's all given by others, and I never use it." The madam smiled like a flower, "I don't like the stains of powder and daisy, and I have always turned my face to the sky."

Yes, there is no trace of heavy makeup on her fair face.

Millions of cosmetics and powders a year, countless treasures and foreign objects, are only used to lock in the deep mansion.

①From Du Fu's "Watching Gongsun Da Niang's Disciples Dance Swords".

②From Zhang Hu's "Two Poems of Jilingtai".

References & in-depth understanding recommendations for this article:
Meng Hui. Sixteen Sounds Among Flowers. Beijing: Life·Reading·Xinzhi Sanlian Bookstore, 2006
(End of this chapter)