Mantra

Chapter 101 The Temple of the Two Ancestors

Huaiyang cuisine is fresh and elegant, with extraordinary bearing, known as "fresh food in four seasons" and "the original taste of food".

It is the standard dish for Chinese state banquets. For more than 600 years from Ming to modern times, it has filled most of the positions in China's high-end catering industry and has endured for a long time.

The most well-known international feasts in my country, such as "Manchu Banquet", "Cixi Birthday Banquet", "Spring Banquet in Red Mansion", and "Dining for State Guests", are all inclusive and developed on the basis of Huaiyang cuisine.

If Sichuan cuisine "Bailong Temple" and Shandong cuisine "Confucian Temple" are the "lower Liba people" in Chinese cuisine, then Huaiyang cuisine is the "Yangchun Baixue" in Chinese cuisine.

Different from other culinary schools, Huaiyang cuisine has a very special development history, because it was not originally a cuisine, but was formed by two factions of Huaian cuisine and Yangzhou cuisine in different historical periods.

Interestingly, although the distance between the two is very close, they did not communicate with each other very much at the beginning. They have been parallel for more than 1000 years. Although there have been intersections and collisions during this period, they have not really merged into one.Each has its own characteristics, inheritance, system and ancestors.

It wasn't until the early Ming Dynasty, after a "food event" that shocked the whole country, that Huai'an cuisine and Yangzhou cuisine were "integrated" under the coordination of the first emperor of the Ming Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang, and gradually formed Huai'an cuisine, which is famous all over the world. Young cuisine.

And that "food event" was also called "Huaiyang confluence" by the cooks in the Wuzang Temple.

Since then, among the four major factions in China, the Huaiyang Cuisine, which is known as the best in the world and has attracted countless rulers, has formally formed.

Huaiyang cuisine has also become the first of the cuisines that took the longest time to form in Chinese history.

From the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period to the early Ming Dynasty, it took 2000 years for this system called Huaiyang Cuisine to be born from its infancy, and it really took shape.

Also because Huaiyang cuisine is formed from the two main sources of "Huai'an cuisine" and "Yangzhou cuisine", Huaiyang cuisine is called "two-source cuisine" in Wuzang Temple, and Huaiyang cuisine is called "two-source temple" " or "Two Ancestors Temple".

And Zhao Shuihe in front of me is the Baian Dahe in this "Two Ancestors Temple".

When Zhao Dahe heard that I called her Dahe like Zhao Haikun, she was naturally very upset.

The little girl scolded me right then: "Old man! Don't say that about me!"

I smiled and was not angry.Instead, he continued to speak: "You have already lost. You are still so powerful!"

Zhao Shuihe's face turned red when she heard this, and she immediately said, "I didn't lose! You were fooled! How do you know I'm from 'Su Zizuo'?"

I proudly said: "It's very simple. Listen to me and tell you slowly."

…Afterwards, I boasted that Huaiyang Cuisine has more small internal factions than other places because of its special formation history.Just from the Bai case, since Xiao Meiren in the late Qing Dynasty, Huaiyang noodles quickly split, and according to different regions, it was divided into three major factions: "Huai'an noodles", "Yangzhou noodles" and "Zhenjiang crisp".

Among them, "Huai'an noodles" inherited Xiao Meiren's craftsmanship of Sanshui noodles. "Yangzhou Dian" has its own secret recipe for fillings, while "Zhenjiang Crisp" is famous for its dessert pastry.The three have their own characteristics, and the training and requirements for white case cooks are also different.

But the ever-changing, inseparable from his finger skills in Yangzhou Baian, and the supreme pursuit of delicate feeling and quality.

Hearing this, Xian Hongye said in admiration: "Then what school does this 'Su Zizuo' belong to?"

I was afraid that I would stimulate Zhao Shuihe's fragile nerves, so after thinking about it for a while, I replied tactfully: "Su Zizuo is not among these three schools, it is unique. It is a new pastry school."

I say that in a more euphemistic tone.

In fact, what I want to say is: Strictly speaking, this Suzi Zuo is not a kind of Huaiyang pastry, at best it can only be regarded as a copycat.

Of course, this is not to praise Su Zi for being a cook, but a kind of helplessness.A kind of sadness.

Behind Su Zizuo, there is a bloody past, which was full of killings and national disasters. Even in the Republic of China, a chairman of the committee burst into tears after learning about Su Zizuo's story: "Su Zizuo in Lianghuai, wanderer What is home?!"

The earliest "Su Zizuo" people were all refugees.They are refugees and refugees from the north who fled to the south following the war.

This kind of refugee is called "clothes south crossing" in Chinese history.Da Yiguan traveled southward three times in ancient times and once in modern times.

And Su Zizuo was formed in the tide of refugees going south in modern times.

In ancient times, when traveling to the south in clothes, the refugees had advanced production experience, and at that time Huainan, the Jiangnan area was sparsely populated, so life was relatively not difficult, and it was very popular with the southern regime that lacked productivity.

But the refugees who went south in modern history did not have the same treatment as their ancestors.

Since the Republic of China, the south has been more prosperous than the north by an order of magnitude, and its productivity has also far exceeded that of the north. On this basis, the northern refugees have no technological advantage over the southerners.And the most terrible thing is that the south is rich and overcrowded, and it is not easy for you to live, and it is not easy for you to resettle the refugees from the north.

Since then, the northerners who fled during the wars of the Republic of China have been in a very difficult situation. Jiangsu and Zhejiang, the land of heaven in their minds, have also become "Sura places" where survival is difficult.

Of course, the aborigines cannot be blamed for this, but the "current situation" at that time can only be blamed.

Su Zizuo is a pastry chef in the north who struggled to survive in the south under such a background.

At first, these folk pastry chefs who fled from refugees thought they could survive on their own craftsmanship, but when they arrived in Huaiyang, they were shocked to find that compared with others, their centuries-old craftsmanship was so simple and unbearable.

From using noodles, to fillings, from making crisps, to steaming, these northern white dishes are incomparable to local pastry chefs.

Their "Beijing Eight Pieces" can't even compare to the little guy who sells cakes on the street, and their "Donkey Rolling" can't even compare to the "Youth Tuanzi" in the hands of the "Little Chef".

In such a big change of background and environment, the noodle masters in the north completely lost their way.

They had to put down their bodies and study their craft from scratch. Many big pastry chefs in the north even joined the Huaiyang boy in his 60s and 30s at the age of [-] or [-] to learn crafts.

They worked so hard and endured humiliation for nothing else but to survive in difficult times.

The dim sum made by these people is also called "Su Zi Zuo" by the locals, which means "pastry made by wanderers in Jiangsu".

Su Zi became a man, and thus he was born.

The inheritance of Suzi's works is very complicated, and because most of them are from the Republic of China, they have been in Huai for a short time, so they are still in the stage of learning. They do not have their own complete factions and pastry characteristics. Except for the occasional characteristics of northern pastries, they are usually When people eat it, they can't tell who is Su Zizuo and who is the local master of Huaiyang.

I heard that because of that unsightly history, Su Zizuoren's biggest requirement at present is to make pastries just like the locals, to imitate them vividly, and to imitate them perfectly.

Speaking of this, Hongye asked me again: "Since you can imitate it so vividly, how can you tell that the water lotus was made by Su Zi?"

I told her: "It is because of her imitation that I can guess it... because... Su Zido has a very perverted pursuit!"

(End of this chapter)