walk all over China

Chapter 20 Yunnan: Mountains and Waters
Shangri-La
Yunnan, a poetic and picturesque name, means a place full of magic.She is interpreting the definition of beauty to the world in her own way.Choose the destination here, for the sun and the moon in your heart, for the holy snow-capped mountains, and for the mysterious Mosuo people.

According to legend, somewhere deep in the snow-capped mountains of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, there is a kingdom composed of eight lotus-petal-shaped regions.This kingdom is surrounded by double-layered snow-capped mountains, and in the center stands the Calabar Palace as high as the snow-capped mountains. There is no pain and desire here, only holiness and wisdom. This kingdom is Shangri-La.

In the history of the development of Buddhism, Shangri-La has been widely mentioned as the highest state of "Pure Land".According to legend, Shangri-La people are the most intelligent saints. They are tall and possess the power of nature. They can communicate and connect with the world through the secret channel of the "navel of the earth" from places that people cannot see. In 1933, in "The Lost Horizon", James Hilton called an oriental paradise-like place in a snow-capped gorge "SHANGRI-LA" (Shangri-La). More than 60 years later, this paradise "Shangri-La" was confirmed to be in the "roof" of Yunnan Province, Diqing Plateau.Shangri-La——The English pronunciation of SHANGRILA is exactly the same as "Shangri-La" in the Zhongdian Tibetan dialect of Diqing Plateau, which means "the sun and the moon in the heart". religious concept.Since then, people have a real image of Shangri-La in their hearts.

Walking into Shangri-La is like walking into paradise. On the long and narrow field beside the road, there is a piece of oily green, occasionally there are patches of golden unknown grass and flowers, and groups of cattle and sheep wander loosely.The clouds in the distance are very low and thick, clinging to the mountains on the horizon, making you feel so close to the sky.Along the clean asphalt road, a few lavender rhododendrons appear from time to time, swaying gently in the summer wind, revealing a faint breath of tranquility.What kind of life is this, far away from the hustle and bustle of people, and the one you love, listening to the breeze and the whispers of the grass, if it is not for Shangri-La, I am afraid that it can only appear in dreams.

Climbing slowly along the not-so-wide asphalt road, the field gradually became less plump, and the patches of small yellow flowers gradually disappeared, replaced by garden-like canyons, full of trees with white flowers, occasionally one or two A small wooden house is hidden among the trees, and there is a clear stream flowing in front of the door, which feels quite out of the world.Walking under the dense white flower trees, pieces of white petals flutter and fall with the summer wind, like snowflakes in the winter moon, covering the grass under the trees, and the black soil by the stream, making green grass, yellow flowers and blue by the stream The colorful iris has lost its color, and under the feet, with the gurgling stream, dots of fallen petals flow silently into the distance, trance like a dream.However, the smoke curling from the hut clearly tells you that this is the world, this is Shangri-La.Knock on the door of the cabin, and you will definitely see a simple face with a bright smile. Only the purest heart can bloom such a smile.The villagers enthusiastically make buttered tea for you. If you are hungry, they will treat you to eat Tibetan-specific flatbread. Although the language is barrier, this enthusiasm and friendliness can be conveyed through the hot buttered tea and warm flatbread. Shangri-La suddenly warmed up.

Meadows are not the main theme of Shangri-La, but the northern foot of Xiaoxue Mountain is the legendary secret place of Shangri-La.The stone peaks are stretching and majestic, the giant cypresses are towering in color, the pineapple hangs upside down, the rhododendrons are purple, and the lavender smoke rises from the deep canyon, smudged with the blue ridges in the country folk songs.When the evening sun passes through the thick clouds rolling over the snow-capped mountains and shoots down obliquely from the sky, it brightly and blazingly paints the deep valleys of the snow-capped mountains, and also ignites the rhododendrons blooming on the cliffs.In an instant, the extremely strong color and the extremely sharp contrast rushed towards the face, which was shocking.

Shangri-La's Food

In Shangri-La, there is a kind of food called "Si Bu", which is a famous dish of the Naxi people. "Sibu" is a Naxi language, which means "blowing the liver", that is, after adding refined salt, five-spice powder, shredded ginger and other seasonings to the pork liver, sprinkle with pepper powder and make it air-dried.When eating, put "Tebu" into the soup pot, add appropriate amount of chili, ginger, and peppercorns, and cook slowly over low heat. After it is cooked, take it out and cut it into thin slices to eat.It is said that it is spicy and fragrant, and has a special taste.

In Shangri-La, apart from buttered tea, there is also a distinctive Solima wine, commonly known as "Tibetan wine", also called "Tibetan beer", which is made by fermenting green pears.It is said that the taste of the wine is mild and tranquil, but it has a lot of stamina.

Haizi in Shangri-La, like stars in the sky, are scattered on the plateau, lying quietly and softly in the arms of Shangri-La.Here, it seems as if you can hear the sound of moonlight pouring into the water, the sound of sunlight caressing the leaves, the sound of bees kissing flowers, and the sound of nature communicating with human beings.

Shangri-La is an exciting place with an extremely peaceful and beautiful environment, but its weather is also extremely changeable.Even though the sun was still shining brightly, a dark cloud came from far away, and the bright raindrops were sparsely falling.The rain in Shangri-La has never been tender, and it can turn people into drowned chickens in a blink of an eye.At this time, people are somewhat annoyed, but there is no need to worry. It only takes a few minutes. After the dark clouds pass, the bright sun will return to your side. You can even look back through the rain clouds and see a beautiful rainbow.This is Shangri-La, this mysterious and aura-filled place, she has a magical power that can make the soul stop.

People who have been here will have a different understanding and cognition of life and life.No matter under the bright sunshine, the plateau land stands with snow-covered mountains covered with silver, the surging rivers rushing, or the ridges of mountains supported by dangerous and deep canyons, or the golden fruits bred in the basins of Yimapingchuan, all carry the The green hope of the distant kingdom, for you, on the quiet and beautiful plateau, reflecting the most beautiful cloud in the blue sky.And here, you can slowly find the ancient and rich, splendid Tibetan culture, Naxi culture and the rich local history and culture of various ethnic groups, because this is the corridor for the north-south communication between the Tibetan ethnic group and other ethnic groups; you can also savor it carefully. The fresh and peaceful charm of Shambhala, the legendary ideal kingdom; you can also quietly blend into the dance of man and god, the harmonious coexistence of man and nature, and the long-distance love of Shangri-La.

Slowly, your heart will calm down, and you will find that Shangri-La, with its mysterious power, is accompanying you through the long journey of life.

This is indeed the piece of pure land you yearn for.

Lijiang
Every city that lives by the water must have a charming charm, and Lijiang is one of them.Lijiang has a desolate and tragic flavor, but the ancient roads, small bridges, flowing water, and houses here, under the blue sky of white clouds, are rendered by the sun, but they are full of fresh beauty like a water town in the south of the Yangtze River.

Lijiang is surrounded by mountains and rivers, surrounded by green hills. Especially in the northwest, several isolated mountains tower into the sky, like a pen stand, reflecting the long green water in the city, telling the history of the ancient tea-horse road.Walking through the old streets in the city and stepping on the streets paved with colorful stones, you will probably fall in love with this city deeply.Despite the reputation here, the small town is full of scenes of modern and busy cities, people come and go, and traffic is busy, but the small town is not stained with the vulgarity of money. Even the noise and frivolity of modern business seem to be purified by the small town. There was a gentle and elegant atmosphere leisurely.People on the street are either busy or leisurely going out of the street and entering the alley. Farmers carrying burdens, carrying fresh fruits and vegetables, walk leisurely without any urgency. Smoke a cigarette and take a rest; outsiders with bags on their backs also walk casually on the street, walking with ease, leisurely and casually, forming a unique scenery on the street.

Anyone who has been to Lijiang knows Sifang Street. It is like a unique symbol of this small city, and it has been passed on by word of mouth.The streets in Lijiang City are very mysterious. Although they are densely packed, no matter how you walk, you will eventually reach Sifang Street.Although Sifang Street is called a "street", it is actually a small square, square and square, like a square seal, radiating all directions of this small city.Standing here and watching, the streets and alleys are arranged in an orderly manner, surrounded by shops and inns, rows of stalls, and a lot of people. It is said that the market and items here have been entangled for hundreds of years, and they are still entangled today.Following the crowds of people, entering the market, touching the bronze and porcelain vases exuding ancient charm, traveling through the illusion of time between modern and ancient times, I can't help but ask myself: where is this?
At sunset, the cries and noises gradually fade away with the afterglow of the setting sun, leaving only a piece of white moonlight on the ancient bluestone slabs.At this time, find a teahouse, sit quietly, watch the dense water mist rising from the teacup, listen to the leisurely and undisciplined whispers of the people in the teahouse, and feel the light and elegant charm of the Naxi people dancing in the remaining daylight in the air , The day rested in silence and serenity.

Lijiang is such a place.A leisurely and unchanging atmosphere, integrated with the nature of Lijiang, makes people feel so comfortable and indifferent, perhaps this is the reason why people fall in love with it.

Dali
Cheerful and galloping spring water, fluttering butterflies, and a gentle and affectionate woman beside the spring.This dreamlike place is Dali.

People often refer to Dali as "the land of wind, flowers, snow and moon". In fact, this does not refer to the review of the romantic life that people think, but refers to "the wind in Xiaguan, the flowers in Shangguan, the snow in Cangshan Mountain, and the moon in Erhai Lake".

The wind in Xiaguan is constant all year round, without a trace of dust and sand, and it also has a romantic atmosphere.Regardless of winter or summer, the wind in Xiaguan will pass through the clean streets and gently brush the cheeks of tourists, just like the soft sleeves of Bai girls, walking among tourists with a faint fragrance.What is particularly surprising is that when the pedestrians are walking forward against the wind, the wind gently blows the hats of the pedestrians, but the hats that should have fallen behind always fall in front of the pedestrians, which is puzzling.Perhaps the wind in Xiaguan is too sentimental, so this kind of little "trick" is used to please the hearts of pedestrians.

The wind in Xiaguan carries a hint of fragrance and sweetness, which is the result of all the flowers in Shangguan are in full bloom.Located at the foot of Yunnong Peak in Cangshan Mountain, Dali, Shangguan is a veritable sea of ​​flowers.The flowers here are big and plump, and the delicate roses on the branches are actually the size of a bowl, and the petite Phalaenopsis orchids that are usually seen seem to have absorbed extremely delicious nutrients and turned into big petals, like The smiling old man swayed in the wind, turning into a brilliant purple.In the Huashu Village outside the pass, there is also a famous "Ten Mile Fragrance" flower tree, with flowers as big as lotus. It is said that it was planted by Lu Dongbin, Lu Xianren, with a sense of immortal aura.In normal years, the flowers of Shilixiang have 12 petals, but in leap years, the petals become 13 petals, and the color is yellow and white, which is very beautiful.After the flowering, it produces a black and hard fruit, which is often used by the local people to make Chaozhu, so it is also called Chaozhuhua.

Dali is like spring all year round, and the snow is not easy to fall into the dams of Dali, but the peak of Cangshan Mountain is covered with pure white snow all the year round. From a distance, it looks like a dancing dragon with white back, Under the shining sunshine of Dali, it is beautiful and moving.Legend has it that when the plague was prevalent, a pair of brothers and sisters of the Bai nationality went to the Bodhisattva to study the Dharma in order to save everyone. After returning, the younger sister became a snow god. plague god.Since then, the nineteen peaks of Cangshan Mountain have been covered with snow like a mountain hat.

In the east of Cangshan Mountain, there is a mirror-like lake, that is Erhai Lake.Erhai Lake, shaped like a human ear, is long from north to south and narrow from east to west. It is a beautiful plateau freshwater lake.It is said that every Mid-Autumn Festival, people living around the Erhai Lake will row wooden boats into the Erhai Lake, and when they look down, they can see a golden moon hidden in the water.But at this time, the vast sea, skylight, clouds, moon and sea water complement each other to form a beautiful picture, which is intoxicating.

Dali's bright sky and tranquil Erhai Lake have created a peaceful heart in Dali, making the wind, flowers, snow and moon here so beautiful.

Lugu Lake

There is a place called Lugu Lake. In the Naxi Mosuo language, "Lu" means "a small valley", "Gu" means "li", and Lugu Lake means "a small lake in a valley".Just beside the small lake in this ravine, there is everything people can imagine, and even more everything beyond imagination.

Lugu Lake is located in the north of Ninglang County at the junction of Yunnan and Sichuan. It occupies an area of ​​more than 50 square kilometers. The lake is clear and blue. It is the lake with the highest altitude in Yunnan and one of the deepest freshwater lakes in China. The deepest point can reach 93 meters. .

Lugu Lake is like a bright pearl inlaid in the mountains, and like a mysterious fairy in the mountains.With its purity and beauty, Lugu Lake has brought joy and romance to the people who grew up here.Lugu Lake and the Mosuo people living by the lake are full of primitive mystery, which makes people unconsciously have a strong sense of curiosity.

There are 5 small islands in Lugu Lake. They are like green boats floating on the surface of the lake, generally 15-30 meters above the water surface, with different sizes.The island is full of wooden houses, the wooden houses are built along the island, the gate faces the lake, and the scenery is charming.Facing the clear spring water and beautiful scenery of Lugu Lake, you will suddenly realize that what you have been chasing is only superficial luxury, and the real enjoyment comes from the smallest details and shocks in life.

The water of Lugu Lake is beautiful, and the mountains on the shore of Lugu Lake are also beautiful. Among the mountains, Gemu Mountain is the most famous.This mountain is majestic and tall, like a lion squatting by the lake, the lion's head faces the quiet lake, and the sloping horizontal ridges are its feet, quietly guarding the daughters of Lugu Lake.

The reason why Lugu Lake is attractive is that there are mysterious Mosuo people living by the lake. This primitive ethnic group still maintains the custom of "no marriage for men and no marriage for women", which adds natural and primitive ethnic customs to this land. , It also dyed this ancient land with a mysterious and beautiful color.Mosuo people love to sing, and people who come here are often attracted by the singing of Mosuo people, which echoes among the wonderful lakes and mountains. It is a pure, natural, simple and beautiful voice.People who hear such singing will calm down quietly...

According to legend, there lived a goddess named Gemu on Mount Gemu. She protected the safety and happiness of the people of all ethnic groups below the mountain, made the people have many children and grandchildren, made the girls strong and beautiful, and made the crops flourish and the cattle and sheep flourish.Therefore, the Mosuo people living here built a shrine for her at the foot of the mountain, and held a grand sacrificial activity on the 25th day of the seventh lunar month every year.At that time, men, women and children from nearby villages, especially young people, put on festive costumes, brought food, and some rode horses to worship at Lion Mountain.In addition to offering sacrifices to the goddess Gemu, grand picnics, horse races, antiphonal songs and other festive activities will also be held.People who travel here, if they catch up with the festivals here, will definitely experience a different style of Lugu.

stone forest
"The most fascinating thing about the stone forest is not the view from a distance, but the experience. That is to say, you must drill into the depths of the stone forest to pry into its secrets."

— Lodin
Stone Forest is the most unmissable place when traveling in Yunnan.It not only has a beautiful karst landform, but also is the hometown of Ashima in the legend of the Yi people.It is located in Shilin Yi Autonomous County in the south of Kunming, 86 kilometers away from Kunming City.About 3 million years ago, the stone forest was still a vast ocean, but at some point, carbonate rocks gradually rose from the seabed.After millions of years of wind and rain erosion, hundreds of pinnacles, carnations and stalagmites have gradually formed.As a result, forests of stones with different postures and full of wit and wit appeared here, and the "Stone Forest" got its name from this.

stone forest travel
To go to Stone Forest, you can take a tourist bus at the square of Kunming Railway Station, and it takes about 2 hours to get there.The general departure time is from 8 to 11 in the morning, and it will be extended by 1 hour on holidays.In addition, you can also take a bus from Kunming to Luliang and Luoping, and go to the Stone Forest, the fare is relatively cheap.However, the time should be planned, and it is best to arrive at Stone Forest before noon, so that you can have a more enjoyable tour.

Roaming in the stone forest, people can't help but be awed by the magical power of nature - millions of stone peaks stand upright, forming a majestic stone sea painting with mountains standing on walls, thousands of peaks gathering greenery, and majestic stone sea.

The Great Stone Forest is the most important part of the Stone Forest Scenic Area. The most beautiful, highest and most difficult peak here is Lianhua Peak.Lianhuafeng "clear water comes out of hibiscus, and it is naturally carved." It stands proudly on the bank of "Jianchi" like a unique flower. To reach the top of Lianhuafeng, there is a trail leading to it, but there are many dangers-here is a piece called "washboard stone". The big rock is eroded like a washboard, and there is nowhere to climb with hands, so they can only squat and move forward step by step. It is thrilling and exciting. Many young people go to the Lotus Peak to test their courage.After going up to Lianhua Peak, you will find that there is a blue sky above your head, and your feet are like a thousand swords out of their sheaths. The view from the top of the peak is wide, and you can have a panoramic view of the majestic and steep stone forest. At this time, you will have the feeling of "infinite scenery on the dangerous peak". .

The small stone forest is connected side by side with the big stone forest, but it is self-contained.The stones here are not too dense, and the ground is relatively flat.Peach, plum, plum, camellia.Dots of stars adorn the surroundings, accompanied by a graceful pinnacle beside the circular pool—she is carrying a basket on her back, looking affectionately into the distance.She is the incarnation of "Ashima", a beautiful and industrious girl in the legend.Legend has it that a long time ago, in a place called Azhuodi in the area of ​​the Yi people, Ashima, the daughter of a poor family, fell in love with the honest and brave young man of the Yi nationality, Ahei. Ma, took her away.Later, he was rescued by Ah Hei.Just as the pair of Yi youths were on their way home, a flash flood swept away Ashima.Ashima turned into a mountain peak, and she gazed affectionately into the distance, as if looking forward to her Brother Ahei.

Stone forest, this "forest sea" that has remained unchanged for millions of years, seems to use hard stones to tell the love and vows in the heart.

Xishuangbanna
I once heard a very beautiful song, which said "beautiful Xishuangbanna, but I can't keep my father". The story, and that beautiful place.

Those who are familiar with Xishuangbanna will call it "Banna", which means "one thousand mu" in Dai language.

The prosperity of Xishuangbanna lies in Jinghong, which is the capital of Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture.Jinghong is a city of peacocks, not only because the girls here are brightly dressed and beautiful like peacocks, but also because there used to be many peacocks here.It used to be a paradise for peacocks. The Dai people liked peacocks. They believed that peacocks could bring people auspiciousness. However, hunting for a long time and frightening peacocks has made the wild peacocks here rare.Today, you can still see many shops selling peacock feathers on the streets of Jinghong, but most of them are taken from domesticated peacocks, which lack the unique charm of wild peacocks.

If Xishuangbanna is a sea of ​​colors, then the skirts of Dai girls in Xishuangbanna must be the brightest pearls in this sea, exuding gorgeous colors.In fact, the skirt of a Dai girl is just a large piece of cloth wrapped around her body, which is very simple.But it is such a simple skirt, but it has the most gorgeous colors in the world, light red, light yellow, and green.Such gorgeous colors, coupled with a slender figure and a pure face, form the most beautiful scenery in the streets and alleys of Xishuangbanna.

In the south of Jinghong City, there is a gorgeous golden orchid, which is Manjinglan Dai Village.When the morning mist gradually dissipated, Manjinglan slowly revealed its outline. Tall mango trees, poinciana trees, and iron sword trees stood quietly, hiding the beautiful and elegant small bamboo buildings in the village. It looks like a small boat in the green sea.It is said to be a bamboo building, but in fact it has only one floor. The bottom is tall wooden piles. There are sundries piled up between the wooden piles, or pigs and cattle are raised. The bamboo building above is the real resting place of the Dai family.Walking along the stairs in front of the bamboo building, slowly climbing up the bamboo building, under the dim light, through the floor made of bamboo boards, you can faintly see the pigs and cows downstairs.

In addition to the gorgeous streets, beautiful Dai girls, leisurely villages, there is also a lush plant kingdom in Xishuangbanna.There are more than 7000 kinds of tropical and subtropical plants planted here, many of which are full of interesting plants, forming a natural "sky garden".

Surprises are everywhere in Xishuangbanna, and they all exude a quiet and gorgeous atmosphere, like a soft fog, faintly surrounding the hearts of everyone who comes to Xishuangbanna.

Dianchi
Perhaps it is God's favor that made the clouds in the sky fall into the world, so Dianchi Lake has so many colors; perhaps it is the five-color brocade of Weaver Girl who fell into this sea-like lake that draws such a wonderful picture.

Dianchi Lake, formerly known as Diannan Lake, also known as Kunming Lake, is located about 20 kilometers southwest of Kunming City.The formation of Dianchi Lake is due to the crustal movement of the Himalayas, which led to the collapse of the plateau limestone fault. It has an altitude of 1886 meters.In fact, coming to Dianchi Lake is not because of the legendary life experience of Dianchi Lake, but because of the indescribable beauty of Dianchi Lake.

There are dozens of mountain peaks around Dianchi Lake, which warmly surround Dianchi Lake. Whenever there is bright sunshine, the mountains are surrounded by water, and the sky, clouds and shadows form a beautiful natural picture.If there is a destiny, it happens that there is a gentle breeze, and the weeping willows on both sides of Dianchi Lake dance lightly, and there are layers of ripples in the vast expanse of blue waves, revealing a long-lasting tenderness, and the little sails are reflected in the lake together with the surrounding mountains and green trees. , adding a bit of softness and affection.

Legend has it that the Dianchi Lake used to be 5 miles long, but now it seems that it is far from that wide. Over the years, the landscaping around the lake and the algae that can be seen everywhere in the Dianchi Lake have completely polluted it.However, what can make regretful hearts return is that the red-billed gulls in Dianchi Lake are still so naughty and cute.Sometimes they hover in the sky, and sometimes they stop, looking at tourists with innocent eyes, and forming a beautiful pastoral picture with lovers cuddling each other in the distance, which makes you feel "really beautiful".Such a blue sky, such a beautiful lake, and such lovely red-billed gulls and happy people can only appear in the painting environment.

When the first ray of sunlight passes through the mountains in the morning, or when the golden light ripples with the gentle water waves at sunset, Dianchi Lake presents its most charming charm, forming unexpected colors on the water surface.And what is even more surprising is that with the continuous change of the sunlight, the color of Dianchi Lake also changes. It becomes pink in an instant, which is comparable to the morning glow in the morning. In an instant, a little bit of blue is added to the pink, as if the sky is as quiet. Quiet, when the sun completely jumps out of the mountains and sprinkles the sun wantonly on the lake, Dianchi Lake is like the sea, shining with sparkling waves, quietly welcoming a beautiful day.

Spring City Kunming
There is a Grand View Building on the north bank of Dianchi Lake, which is the best place to appreciate Dianchi Lake.Standing upstairs, leaning on the railing, you can have a panoramic view of the beautiful scenery of Dianchi Lake.On both sides of the gate of Daguanlou, there is a long couplet written by Sun Ranweng, a poor scholar in the Qing Dynasty, which is known as "the first in ancient and modern times".This long couplet has 180 characters, and the whole couplet is in Yan style regular script, which is rigorous and vigorous, and is regarded as one of the most valuable art treasures in Yunnan.It is said that Sun Ranweng, who wrote this couplet, was a poor scholar in the Qing Dynasty. His family was poor and he died of hunger and cold.However, the long couplets of Daguanlou written by him with his brilliant brush have remained and become the most precious cultural heritage of Dianchi Lake today.Perhaps this is also the real secret of Dianchi Lake. No matter how magnificent the lake and mountains are, how open the water surface is, no matter how gorgeous the color is, the historical atmosphere that has gone through hundreds of years will not change, and it can only become more mellow.

Kunming is located in the middle of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, with an altitude of 1890 meters. It has beautiful scenery and places of interest such as Green Lake, Xishan Park, Heilongtan, and Qiongzhu Temple. Moreover, Kunming has a mild climate and is like spring all year round. scene.The flowers in Kunming are mainly Camellia, Magnolia, Rhododendron and Primula, known as the Four Famous Flowers in Kunming, among which Camellia is the most famous.

(End of this chapter)