walk all over China

Chapter 25 Jiangsu·Wuyue Aftertaste
Taihu
In the south of the Yangtze River in spring, the wind is light, the clouds are light, the willows in front of the street are soft, and the rape blossoms behind the house are brilliant.Come to Jiangsu at this time, see flowers and willows, ferry across the bridge, even if you are not an old friend, passing by on the bridge, you can still have a feeling of looking back and smiling.Jiangsu in spring is full of stories.

The land of Wuyue has been affectionate since ancient times.For example, Fan Lina's feelings of sacrificing his life for love, abandoning fame and fortune, and boating on the lake with his beloved made the water of Taihu Lake become deep and deep in an instant.

Taihu Lake is located in Wuxi City in the south of Jiangsu Province, adjacent to Zhejiang Province, with an area of ​​2338 square kilometers. It is the third largest freshwater lake in China, and there are many mountains and rivers in this lake.The reason why Huangshan has 72 peaks is because it was originally a mountain, but the 72 peaks in Taihu Lake make you wonder.Taihu Lake is 48 miles away. There are 72 large and small islands in the lake. Together with the mountains and peninsula along the lake, they are called 72 peaks.Perhaps the [-] peaks of Taihu Lake are not as amazing as Huangshan Mountain, nor are they as tall and straight as Huangshan Mountain, but they are either blended with mountains and rivers, with various poses; or green grass and flowers, hiding small bridges and flowing water; ; or dignified and elegant, revealing a strong poetic sentiment, forming a natural picture of mountains beyond mountains and lakes within lakes.

Walking in Yuantouzhu, Taihu Lake, has a special feeling.The green mountains and green waters are dotted with Changchun Bridge, Chenglan Hall, and Feiyun Pavilion. Beside the old corridors and eaves, a hundred flowers are in full bloom, and willows and willows are in full bloom.

The beauty of Taihu Lake is still in the sunset.On the vast expanse of soft waves, a round of blood-red setting sun slowly descended on the horizon, and the sky and the earth seemed to be brilliant in an instant. Those golden lights softly attached to the bridges, corridors, and lakes, so majestic, but It is so magnificent that people can't help but feel awe.The sunset on the lake is so charming, so I think the moon view on the lake is also lovely.If you think back to when Fan Li and Xi Shi went boating here on a moonlit night, you can also feel the sigh of "it's so misty and so dark that I'm in a flat boat".

After watching the beautiful scenery of Taihu Lake, a big meal is indispensable. Find a small restaurant by the lake and eat a real boat dish, and a trip will be complete.

Taihu Lake is rich in three whites, namely whitebait, white shrimp and white fish, among which the most famous one is Taihu white shrimp.It is said that the shell of this shrimp is extremely thin, the whole body is transparent, and it is crystal clear like jade. Even after being cooked, it is rare and white.

Taihu Pearl
In addition to the beauty of the lake, water, people, boats and vegetables, Taihu Lake also has the beauty of pearls.The Taihu Lake area is rich in artificial freshwater pearls, which are said to be crystal clear and round, with pure color and luster, and enjoy the reputation of "Taihu Lake pearls are the best in the world" internationally.The Empress Dowager Cixi of the Qing Dynasty also praised: "The pearls in the east and the south are not as good as the freshwater pearls in Taihu Lake." It can be seen that the pearls are good.If you have time to go to Taihu Lake, you might as well take a look at Pearl.

Taihu Lake is such a beautiful place. Although it is not as refined and elegant as West Lake, it has its own charm.Whether it is the vast lake water or the sweet lake vegetables, it is easy to remind people of a leisurely life.Abandon the busy work, and go boating on the lake with the one you love, watching the elegant sea turtle head and the sunset falling into the waves... Is there anything more beautiful in the world than this?

Suzhou gardens
Suzhou, the old streets of the secluded ancient town, the lush camphor trees, the ordinary small houses with white walls and black tiles, exude a leisurely charm, not to mention the painted buildings with carved beams, and the delicate gardens.

All say
"The gardens in the south of the Yangtze River are the best in the world, and the gardens in Suzhou are the best in the south of the Yangtze River." If you really go to Suzhou and see the gardens here, you will know what is exquisite and elegant.If the gardens in Beijing exude a grand, orderly, and majestic atmosphere, then the gardens in Suzhou are a collection of small, delicate, and free.

Perhaps it is because the life of the small bridges and flowing water in Suzhou is too tender, which makes Suzhou gardens permeated with a poetic flavor.Whether it is the layout of pavilions, terraces and pavilions, the coordination of rockeries and ponds, the background of flowers and trees, and the level of close-up and distant views, no matter where you stand, you will have the real feeling of "as in a painting".

Most of the gardens in Suzhou were built in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. There were more than 200 gardens in the prosperous period, and now there are more than 60 well-preserved gardens, among which the Humble Administrator’s Garden, Lingering Garden, Master of the Nets Garden and Huanxiu Villa are outstanding representatives.The Humble Administrator's Garden, a garden of the Ming Dynasty, was built on the site of Lu Guimeng's house in the Tang Dynasty and the former site of Dahong Temple in the Yuan Dynasty after Hongzhi Jinshi and Yushi Wang Xianchen abandoned their official positions and returned to their hometowns in the Ming Dynasty.Here, whether you lean on the railing or open the window to dream, what the Humble Administrator's Garden presents to you are poetic and illusory "Chinese paintings".Even a pagoda that is several miles away from the garden can be borrowed by the designer into the garden, so that people who watch it can have the illusion of "the courtyard is deep, how deep is it".

The Lingering Garden is located outside the Changmen Gate of Suzhou. It is a garden with densely distributed scenery in Suzhou gardens. Not only that, it is said that the layout of the Lingering Garden is ingenious, which is beyond the reach of other gardens.Here, the rockery and ponds are in contrast, and the pavilions and pavilions are turning around, and the flowers and trees are dotted among them. Although it is wonderful to change the scenery, it still lacks the indifference of the past.

If the Humble Administrator's Garden and the Lingering Garden still have the style of a large garden, then the Master of the Nets Garden is a model of small and exquisite gardens in Suzhou.This small courtyard hidden in Kuojiatou Lane, south of Daicheng Bridge, Yaomen, Suzhou, is a world of water. The owner once took the meaning of "fishing seclusion" and called it "The Garden of the Master of the Nets".The Garden of the Master of the Nets is divided into stones and centered on water. The main garden is all made of yellow stones, while the other gardens are made of lake stones without mixing them.Strolling under the corridors of the loop, looking at the scattered mountains and rivers, the instantaneous beauty of the pavilions around the pools, gives birth to a poetic feeling.It is said that to see the most beautiful scenery in the Master of the Nets Garden is not to walk through it, but to find a quiet corner, or sit, or stand, and after a while, the shadows of flowers will move to the wall, and the peaks and mountains will be the windows. The scenery is the same as what you just saw It is very different.This is also one of the wonders of the scenery in the Master of the Nets Garden.

In fact, Suzhou is a city that exudes aura and simplicity everywhere. Walking in various gardens, you will be greeted with elegance and simplicity, like a delicate and charming little poem, waiting for you to savor it carefully.

The Lakes and Mountains of Gusu City
Suzhou is classical and elegant, as gentle as jade, but it is difficult to see the mountains.This is the regret of Suzhou. If there is no Qionglong Mountain, this regret will not be replaced by the elegance of Suzhou, nor can the winding clear water in Suzhou city make up for it.

According to legend, in the Xia Dynasty, there was a famous adviser named Xu, who was very talented and knowledgeable in astronomy and geography.At that time, the flood was rampant, so he helped Dayu to control the flood, and was deeply respected by Emperor Shun.After subduing the flood, Emperor Shun granted him the land of Wu.Since then, Wuzhong has been known as "Guxu".Over time, "Guxu" gradually evolved into "Gusu" in Wu Nong's soft language.

Suzhou is classical and elegant, as gentle as jade, but it is difficult to see the mountains.This is the regret of Suzhou. If there is no Qionglong Mountain, this regret will not be replaced by the elegance of Suzhou, nor can the winding clear water in Suzhou city make up for it.Because a city without mountains lacks a kind of comfort.In fact, although Qionglong Mountain is called a mountain, it is not as tall and straight as other peaks. It is just that there are hidden dragons and crouching tigers on the mountain, and the ancient temples are long, which has a unique scenery.Legend has it that this was the place where Sun Wu lived in seclusion and wrote "Sun Tzu's Art of War". Many years later, there is still a warm atmosphere here.

Although Hanshan Temple is called Hanshan, it is not a mountain, but a monastery with a cool air.Walking through the stone alleys of Fengqiao, you can see Hanshan Temple with green trees and green tiles and yellow walls when you look up.The melancholy song "Hanshan Temple outside Gusu City, midnight bells to the passenger ship" made the bells of Hanshan Temple spread for thousands of years, and the ancient Hanshan Temple became famous all over the world.Hanshan Temple was first built in the Six Dynasties and was originally named "Miaolipu Ming Pagoda Courtyard". According to legend, during the Zhenguan period of the Tang Dynasty, the famous monk Hanshan He Shide once came from Tiantai Mountain to be the abbot, so it was renamed "Hanshan Temple".

The pride of Suzhou lies in Tiger Hill.Su Dongpo, a great writer, once said, "Go to Suzhou without visiting Tiger Hill, Hanshan Temple "Hanshan Temple outside Gusu City"-this is almost the only reason why the small temple is famous.

It is a pity", which shows that Huqiu is attractive. In fact, the reason why Huqiu is proud is that Wu Wanghelu and his sword are buried here. According to legend, after Wu Wanghelu died, his son Fuchai killed him. It was buried in the place of Huqiu, so there is the unique Huqiu Sword Pool today.

Jianchi is a pool of green water, with cliffs standing beside the pool and huge rocks stacked on top of each other. There is a waterfall in the middle, which falls into Jianchi.Maybe it was caused by the sword energy, the water in the sword pond is not clear, if it wasn't for the surging waterfall and the gushing spring, people would think it was a piece of stagnant water.The entanglement of carp in the pool proves the old saying that "when the water is clear, there will be no fish".On the rock wall of the cliff, there are inscriptions written by literati of past dynasties, and the red seal character "Jianchi" about several feet high, winding like a snake, is said to be written by Zhou Boqi, a calligrapher of the Yuan Dynasty.

In the land of Tiger Hill, in addition to the world-famous Jianchi, there is also Tiger Hill Tea.Tiger Hill is also known as Haiyong. It is said that the spring here is connected to the deep sea. People take it to make tea, and it is really fragrant and pleasant.Regardless of whether this statement is true or not, the jasmine in Huqiu tea is very fragrant.The jasmine in Huqiu grows beside the sword pool, which has a great relationship with Zhenniang, a famous prostitute in Wuzhong in Tang Dynasty.It is said that in the past, jasmine had no fragrance. After the death of Zhenniang, the soul of the jasmine attached to the jasmine, and only then did the fragrance overflow.In order to commemorate Zhenniang, people in Huqiu made tea from jasmine, and called it "fragrant soul tea".

Of course, the lakes and mountains of Suzhou are brought to life by Wu Nong's soft-spoken Suzhou people.No matter it is by the meandering river in the city, on the cold mountain with ancient rhyme, or beside the strange sword pool, you can hear the pure Su tune and Wu tune.That soft whisper, like a beautiful piece of music, was kneaded into twists and turns, and the lingering sound lingered, making this gentle Suzhou suddenly become passionate.

Yangzhou
In my impression, Yangzhou is a small city full of fat and powder.The powdery atmosphere here has attracted countless elegant literati and poets who traveled thousands of miles away, and left here poems and songs that have been passed down through the ages.As for the love of children, Wu Nong's soft words have also made a lot of stories that are well-known throughout the ages.

For many people, Yangzhou is like a dream, a dream that is impregnated with incomparable beauty in Tang poetry and Song poetry, and a dream that is intoxicated by many legends and anecdotes. "Fireworks in Yangzhou in March", the misty rain, the exquisite woman holding an oilcloth flower umbrella, and the beautiful and quiet lake constitute the natural landscape of Yangzhou.A song "Yangzhou Slow" once told the misty rain in Yangzhou, and the Yangzhou woman who got on the wrong sedan chair in the fairy temple still told the world the legend of Yangzhou.

This place once called "Guangling" has been shrouded in the aura of romantic talents and romantic beauties since ancient times, keeping a vague distance from people.However, when you walk into it, you will find that it is a small, warm and lovely city, exuding a careless charm in the simple and unsophisticated charm.In the fields and mountains, there are continuous golden rapeseed. In the streets and alleys of the city, there are no tall buildings and buildings. All you can see are old buildings. A lotus flower is placed, swaying a different kind of charm.

The beauty of Yangzhou is inseparable from the Slender West Lake.You may think that Slender West Lake got its name because it looks like Little West Lake.But in fact, it is because the Slender West Lake is a beautiful scene formed by "borrowing" a corner of the West Lake.There is a poem by Wang Hang, a poet of Qiantang in the late Qing Dynasty:
"Chui Yang keeps picking up the remnants, and Yantooth Hongqiao looks like a picture. It is also a pot of gold, so it should be called Slender West Lake." Slender West Lake got its name from this and has become famous both at home and abroad.

In a year, the most beautiful time of Slender West Lake is at four o'clock and eighth.In the morning and evening of the wind and moon, Slender West Lake is surrounded by mountains and rivers and shaded by green trees, just like a flying colored silk wrapping around the "half a golden mountain".The trees on both sides of the strait are sparse, the willows are leaning, and occasionally dotted with towers and pavilions, which is refreshing and pleasant.On a moonlit night, I took a boat to slowly cut through the fine waves, and floated in the lake. Standing on the bow of the boat, overlooking the lake, I saw the red walls and green tiles of Jinshan looming in the haze of mist and rain.From time to time, Yangzhou ditties that seem to exist and seem to exist can be heard in the ears, and the twists and turns keep stirring the mind, making people mesmerized and memorable.Liusi on the bank whispered in the haze, could it be that she and Yuer lamented the beauty of the misty rain in April?

Daming Temple

When visiting Yangzhou, three points are for seeing the scenery, three points are for reading history, and three points are for reciting poems. If you still have one point of mood, just leave it to the alleys of Yangzhou.The alleys here are not just alleys, but also carry a period of history and anecdotes in the alleys. The criss-crossing alleyways, with twists and turns, obviously seem to have come to an end, but unexpectedly, when you walk closer, there are dark flowers and bright flowers. .The alleys in Yangzhou are complex. When you walk here, you don’t need to have any destination. You just walk forward. Occasionally, you will encounter an ancient well. Looking at the traces of time left on the edge of the well, you can’t help but suspect that time has frozen.

Yangzhou is a legendary place. When you walk through the alleys, you may meet a beautiful woman who walks in a graceful manner. The dress decorated with blue flowers has a faint fragrance. Passing sideways in the narrow alleys, leaving behind a faint fragrance and a faint thought.

Located in Shugang, north of the ancient city of Yangzhou, surrounded by mountains and facing water, it has a long history.It was first built in the reign of Liu Jun, Emperor Xiaowu of the Song Dynasty in the Southern Dynasty, and it is also called "Qiling Temple" and "West Temple".It was destroyed by fire in the Tang and Song Dynasties respectively, and the temple was rebuilt later.During Emperor Qianlong's reign, it was named "Fajing Temple". In 1980, after the statue of Master Jianzhen "returned to China to visit relatives" from Japan, it was renamed "Daming Temple".

water town

I am yearning for the water towns in the south of the Yangtze River. There is no reason. Just wanting to cross the small bridge leisurely in a black awning boat is exciting for a long time.People who have lived in the south of the Yangtze River may have been used to it for a long time. The rural paintings like heavy ink and wash have lost their freshness, but they know that the seemingly ordinary and ordinary town has a special flavor that attracts people. , calling.

Small towns in Jiangsu, Zhouzhuang, Tongli, and Wuzhen.Just like the name Jiangsu, it brings people a gentle and peaceful atmosphere.I still remember that in "The Year Like Water", the thick and black door, after being pushed open, I walked into another world, which was full of book fragrance, dusty prosperity and silence.The small town in Jiangsu is like a study hidden behind the gate, occasionally revealing a little light, so you can't help but go to peep.Like many small towns in the south of the Yangtze River, Zhouzhuang can only be experienced by boat.Sitting on a black-covered boat, gently shaking the small oars on the boat, wandering along the streets and alleys of Zhouzhuang with the boat, I can't help but sigh happily.

Tongli is not far from Zhouzhuang, and like Zhouzhuang, it has the charm of a small town in the south of the Yangtze River.If Zhouzhuang has an old appearance, then Tongli looks much brighter. She is the kind of place where people can have the idea of ​​staying for a long time.Although the water in Tongli is not as graceful as that of Zhouzhuang, it has a long charm. When rowing a boat, listening to the gurgling sound of water and looking at the trance water shadow, people can't help but immerse themselves in it.

In Tongli Town, the streets are formed by the water, and every family is close to the water, so the bridge has become a hub connecting the street and the house.Among the bridges in Tongli, the most famous one is the closely adjacent "Three Bridges". They are small and exquisite, dignified and elegant, and they quietly express the charm of Tongli.It is said that people who live in Tongli, no matter what the happy event is, must walk the three small bridges lively, which is the best wish for the future life.Walking around in Tongli, you can see those special buildings, Chongben Hall, Jiayin Hall, Gengle Hall, all of them are quiet and simple.Stepping in lightly, a strong humanistic atmosphere blows towards your face, but you also know clearly that such a breath can only exude such a charming brilliance in this rural water.

In water towns, water is always indispensable.It is the eyes of the town, the spirit of the town.

Pavilions and houses in water towns

When mentioning Wuzhen, many people will think of the leisurely mood and full of feelings in "Time Like Water".Wuzhen is not big, but it has a thousand-year history, but I don’t know how many of the thousand-year-old shop signs on the roadside are real.At the west end of the town, there is a Xiuzhen Temple, in front of which there is a verandah, each beam of the veranda is engraved with relief sculptures, one by one, a wonderful Three Kingdoms is displayed in front of you: Taoyuan knot, cooking wine On heroes, five levels and beating generals.The pictures are exquisite and vivid, which unknowingly brings a trace of antiquity to the people who come here.

This is a small town in the south of the Yangtze River. It exudes a gentle charm. It has never been in a daze. It will stand up at every historical juncture. Even the old man sitting by the stone bridge has his own judgment on current social affairs.Perhaps this is also the reason why Jiangnan Town is so attractive.

On the north bank of the Songhua River in Harbin, the Sun Island Scenic Area faces the old city in the south across the river.And the Sun Island Scenic Area "White Night" in the north.

Nanjing
Nanjing is a dense city, and traces of history can be found in almost every corner of her.For example, by the Qinhuai River, who is singing "Peach Blossom Fan"?The sentence "passing the sad words before leaving, and crying to the end of the world every year for cold food" expresses her prosperity in the past and the desolation of today.

Nanjing has carried too many past events, from the fierce battle of the Three Kingdoms, to the prosperity of the four generations of the Southern Dynasties, from the sadness of Li Yu in the Later Tang Dynasty, to the heroism of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, from the beauty of the Qinhuai River, to the tragic massacre of the city by the Japanese army... too much time in It is deposited here until it is too thick to dissolve.However, perhaps it is the heaviness of Jinling, the prosperity of Nanjing, and the beautiful Qinhuai River that have brought people too much reverie, which has attracted people to come here to find an old dream about the ancient city, to find a piece of past and present life love.

The story of Nanjing is hidden deep in the blood-stained stone roads, in the houses with white walls and gray tiles in the alleys, and in the ten miles of Qinhuai River. "Smoky cage, cold water, moon cage and sand, mooring Qinhuai at night near restaurants", after hundreds of years, Qinhuai is still full of feasting and feasting.A bend of green water, old houses, babbling playing and singing, as if time has never walked here.At night, strings of red lanterns are still swaying under the windows facing the water, leaving behind the shadows of lights along the river, but the handsome young man and the beautiful woman holding a round fan have long been missing on the white marble bridge.

Strolling along the Qinhuai River, although the buildings on both sides of the bank are antique, the shops on the riverside are quite modern and hawking.The painting boats of the past have long been replaced by small boats carrying tourists, and the lanterns on the roof and lintels have long since lost their quaint atmosphere. The bustling and indulgent crowd has already squandered the quiet temperament left by the river.

Walking into the Wangxie Ancient House in Wuyi Lane, it is surprisingly quiet. Perhaps this is the only place where the ancient Qinhuai atmosphere remains.The small courtyard, like the gray tiles and white walls of other ancient residences, has a faint ancient charm. A few clumps of plantains in the corner shake gently in the breeze, and the small courtyard suddenly becomes poetic and picturesque.The former old house still maintains its original appearance. The once glorious furniture is now covered in glass counters, exuding a mysterious atmosphere in the dark room.Strolling in this quiet house, a sense of the heaviness of history, a kind of indifference after the bustling is over, let the boredom in my heart disappear immediately.Who would have thought that in the bustling and noisy Qinhuai River, there is such a hidden corner, telling the story of its former glory?

I have been lingering in this small courtyard for a long time, and I can't bear to leave. I put aside the troubles and sorrows of this world, and I can't help asking myself: just like the plantain in the corner, isn't it good to watch quietly?The leisurely sound of guqin in the courtyard is the heart of the young people guarding the place.Under the nourishment of the piano, this small courtyard gradually blurred, like a fine brushwork painting of an ancient water town, with a kind of leisurely feeling everywhere.

This is the real Qin Huai, so calm and calm!Perhaps this is the real Jinling back then, and the real Nanjing today?The din of the alleys in the city and the noise of the people by the river are nothing but the floating gold of the Qinhuai River. As time goes by, the hustle and bustle gradually fades away, leaving only the tranquility of the plantain in the corner.

(End of this chapter)