walk all over China

Chapter 28 Anhui · Ancient Anhui Love
Huangshan
A stream, a village, green tiles, white walls, this is the beautiful world - Anhui.Under the tree at the intersection, warm a pot of old wine, make an appointment with a group of friends, chat about homework, recall the gains and losses of life, and the days of immortals are nothing more than this.

You can find the majesty of Mount Tai, the steepness of Mount Hua, the beauty of Emei, even the skillful stones of Yandang Mountain and the subtlety of Mount Wuyi.

Huangshan gathers all people's fantasies about mountains. It is majestic, magical, handsome, charming and masculine. Hundreds of years ago, someone said, "You don't look at the mountains when you return from the five mountains, and you don't look at the mountains when you return from Huangshan." You can see the wonder of Huangshan.Opening the poems of Tang and Song Dynasties that exude a long fragrance, the poems of "Danya with stone pillars, Han's golden hibiscus", "36 peaks soar into the sky, Yaotai Qiongyu stores immortals" come to your face, people can't help but ask: What is Huangshan? What kind of charm is it that makes literati and inkmen for thousands of years fall in love with it so much?However, when you set foot on the land of Huangshan Mountain, breathe the sweet smell in the air, and caress your moisturized and refreshed skin, the problem will be solved.

Huangshan is beautiful.Its beauty lies not only in the strange pines and strange rocks on the mountain, but also in the combination of Huangshan and Huizhou.I haven't climbed Huangshan yet, but on the road in Huizhou, through the car window, I saw a farmhouse that was emitting smoke. In front of the farmhouse was a green paddy field, and Huangshan in the distance was like a daisy, with a leisurely morning charm.This idyllic scenery is enough to make you intoxicated.

When large flakes of snowflakes began to float in the silvery leaden sky, accompanied by the rustling breeze, the snowflakes were like catkins in spring in the north, flying all over the sky, and then slowly falling down.At this time, Huangshan Mountain is completely hidden in a snow fog, and the peaks, cliffs and deep valleys of the peaks are so white and flawless, so leisurely and unrestrained, which makes people very fond of it.

Of course, the snow scene of Mount Huangshan cannot be seen all the time, it needs a chance.Legend has it that around the Lunar New Year is the best time for snowfall in Mount Huangshan.Occasionally, people who are destined to come here when there is new snow will see wonderful smog, snow, ice hangings, snow curtains, and a world of ice sculptures and jade in full bloom.But this kind of spectacle is rare, just like the legend on Mount Huangshan.

Although the snow scene of Mount Huangshan is strange, it is not shocking. What really shocks people is the "change" of Mount Huangshan. It is not the joy of relying on piles and kitsch, but an innate talent With a unique temperament.The sea of ​​clouds can best reflect the temperament of Huangshan.

Huangshan has been known as the "Yellow Sea" since ancient times.Who wouldn't be surprised that a mountain is named after the sea?However, the real wonder of Huangshan lies in the fact that it looks like the sea but not the sea, the mountain peaks and the clouds and mists are illusions, the images are myriad, and people's imagination is even more so.According to geographical distribution, Mount Huangshan can be divided into five "sea areas": Lianhua Peak, south of Tiandu Peak, Yuping Peak, Lion Peak, and north of Shixin Peak.Among them, the Manjusri Terrace on Yuping Peak is the best place to view the Qianhai Sea, surrounded by clouds and fog, with ups and downs, and it is a world drawn with natural colored brushes.On the top of Lion Peak and Qingliang Terrace, you can not only watch the ever-changing sea of ​​clouds, but also watch the first sunrise.It is said that when the sun rises from the peaks, the ocean of clouds suddenly rolls and rushes, and the golden light of the sun floats on the ocean, like jumping gold, which is simply gorgeous.

And the 12-meter-high flying boulder in Mount Huangshan appears and disappears in the illusory sea of ​​clouds and mist, as if it really flew from outside the sky, standing in the "air", no wonder "Dream of Red Mansions" wants to use it as the opening scene.

Huangshan travel time

The peak tourist season of Huangshan is from mid-March to mid-November every year, but the rest of the time may be the most beautiful time of Huangshan, which has the reputation of "the most beautiful season of Huangshan".The winter in Huangshan is often relatively long, and it may snow around the end of October every year. Usually, December to February of the next year is the period when the snow is the thickest, and it is also the best season to enjoy the rime and snow scenery of Huangshan.

In fact, in Mount Huangshan, the reality of the peaks and stones and the illusion of the sea of ​​clouds are the perfect match.Whether it is the danger and surprise of Feilaishi, or the fairy guiding the way at the Pipeng intersection of Yungu Temple, they all show a blurred scenery in the ups and downs of the sea of ​​clouds, which can only be seen in poems and paintings. view.

This is Huangshan.Any of its wonders can be imitated, and traces can be found in other famous mountains and rivers. Only its natural and unified temperament and courage are unique, which cannot be imitated by any other mountain.

Jiuhua mountain

In the past, on the Jiujiang River, looking at the Jiuhua Peak, the Tianhe River hangs green water, showing the nine hibiscus.If I want to wave my hand, who can follow me?you are the host, right here lying.

——Li Bai's "Change Jiuzi Mountain to Jiuhua Mountain and Preface to the Sentences"

In Jiuhua Mountain, the nine peaks are like hibiscus. In "Furong", there are many ancient temples, and in the hall of real Buddha, cigarettes are lingering, so people call it "Lotus Buddha Kingdom".

The center of Jiuhua Mountain is Jiuhua Street, where temples are mainly concentrated.Among the many temples on Mount Jiuhua, Huacheng Temple is the oldest temple in Mount Jiuhua, built in the Jin Dynasty.It is said that the reason why this temple is called "Huacheng" has its origins.It is recorded in the "Miaofa Lotus Sutra" that a "mentor" led a group of people to seek treasures in a distant place. Because the road was difficult and dangerous, people were exhausted, and people were afraid and wanted to retreat.The "mentor" who led the team felt very sorry, so he used supernatural powers to form a city in front of everyone, allowing them to rest and meditate. "Huacheng" comes from this.

Walking up Jiuhua Street, the beauty of Jiuhua Mountain will be displayed in front of you.The stream is clear, there are many springs, pools, pools and waterfalls, and the mountains are hidden, and the cliffs and strange rocks on the dangerous peaks are lifelike.Among them, canyons and streams are intertwined, flowing springs and waterfalls, and the scenery is infinite.

Tianzhu Mountain

In Anhui, where famous mountains gather, Tianzhu Mountain is not "hot".On the contrary, she was a little deserted and quiet, and it was said that almost no one bothered her.But in fact, the beauty of Tianzhu Mountain is comparable to that of Huangshan Mountain, and the mountain road is steep and steep, with the heroic spirit of "a pillar of the sky, ten thousand mountains return to their ancestors".

Tianzhu Mountain is located on the north bank of the Yangtze River, in Anhui Province. Because the main peak is 1488.8 meters above sea level, it stands tall and straight, like a giant pillar supporting the sky, so it got its name.There are 42 peaks on Tianzhu Mountain, among which pines and green bamboos are scattered all over, strange rocks, strange caves, waterfalls and deep pools are full of wonders.

Perhaps it is because of the many and strange Tianzhu Mountain that it is loved by Taoism and Buddhism.In the ancient Taoist culture, there were 36 caves and 72 blessed places in China's strange mountains and green waters, and Tianzhu Mountain was listed as the 14th cave and 57 blessed places.The Buddhist Zen also has a close relationship with Tianzhu Mountain. It is said that after the founder of Zen Bodhidharma, the second and third ancestors of Zen practiced in Tianzhu Mountain. It is a famous temple all over the world.

The roads of Tianzhu Mountain are almost all stone.Those stone steps pass between the peaks, turning and turning, often bring people a kind of joy of "the mountains and rivers are full of doubts, and there is another village with dark willows and flowers".

The most dangerous section of Tianzhu Mountain is a ridge called "Qinglongbei".The majestic mountain seems to have been cut by a knife here, and it is quickly gathered from the bottom upwards, leaving only a very narrow ridge for people to pass through.It is said that this ridge is moving like a dragon churning between mountains and seas of clouds.Those who walk on the dragon's back are all precarious, and they can only barely pass by holding on to the fences on both sides that are lower than their waists and stabilizing their center of gravity.When you finally walk to the end of the dragon's spine tremblingly, you raise your eyes: heh!It was as if the whole world was spreading out from under his feet.The mountains in the distance play with the white clouds on the horizon, the creek that suddenly appears in the valley is as light as a feather yarn, and is gently pulled around the waist of the green hills, and the rolling sea of ​​clouds in front of you is boundless and beautiful...

Sanzu Temple

Sanzu Temple is the most famous scenic spot in Tianzhu Mountain, not far from Nanmen Yeren Village.This temple was built in the Southern Dynasties, and today there are only the scripture storage building, a few side rooms and the Jueji Pagoda standing in front of the temple.Due to the beautiful scenery around the temple, literati have visited here many times, leaving behind many cultural landscapes.For example, in the valley to the west of the temple, there are landscapes of "flowing spring in the valley" and "ancient stone cow cave".According to legend, in the Northern Song Dynasty, Huang Tingjian once sat on a stone ox to study. On the boulder, Huang Tingjian's poems and the "Picture of a Taoist Sitting on a Bull" painted by the great contemporary painter Li Gonglin are engraved on the boulder, which are still clearly visible today.

This is the unparalleled Tianzhu Mountain.

Xidi and Hongcun
Speaking of Huizhou, people can't help but think of a gray-blue tiled roof, pink-and-white walls, arched door walls, and exquisite wooden windows embedded in the walls.Every morning at dawn, the Huizhou woman with a beautiful body and a blue heart, gently carrying a basket of vegetables, walked towards those courtyards against the rising sun slanting on her shoulders.This is the picturesque place, Xidi and Hongcun.

Xidi and Hongcun are just two little-known villages in Huizhou, but they have the reputation of "people in the peach blossom garden".

Passing through the entrance of the arched gate of Xidi Village, looking far away, the houses of different heights but closely connected are all white walls, blue tiles and horse-head walls, with neat layout and exquisite structure.During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, most of the villagers in Xidi were merchants and their families were well-off, so the houses they built were also very particular.Although these eaves and blue-gray walls have experienced a hundred years of wind and rain, they still seem to exude the colors of Ming and Qing in the half-dark morning sun.

People in Xidi say that "rain and snow are gold and silver", so every household has patios, pavilions, and small ponds, and the rain and snow all fall on their own courtyards. This may be the case with the so-called "no fat water flows into outsiders' fields".Open the door of the old house casually, and the patio and courtyard will appear in front of you, and the furnishings in the spacious hall can be seen at a glance.At the intersection of Xidi, there is another family whose door has been set back half a meter, with the words "Thinking of taking a step back" engraved on the forehead.It is said that this is because there were many corrupt officials back then, and the owner was a warning for future generations.This is Xidi. Although it was once brilliant, it is now quiet, but those small courtyards that quietly exude the breath of life still tell stories.The years just buried the glory of the past, but they couldn't erase the memory in my heart.

The same as "the village in the painting", if Xidi gives people a kind of solidity, then Hongcun gives people a kind of beauty.The distant mountains are faintly visible in the heavy mist, the weeping willows on the shore are swaying in the gentle breeze, three or two ducks are cruising, four or five butterflies are fluttering, the cooking smoke is curling up, swallows are dancing and warblers are singing, this is the lightness that Xidi does not have .

Huizhou folk houses
The lightness of Hongcun comes from the water that lingers in the village.The pond in the center of the village is called Nanzhao, and the water source is drawn from the spring in the back mountain. The spring water flows through the alleys, forming the characteristics of small bridges and flowing water in this remote small village.Perhaps it is the nourishment of the mountains and rivers that makes the wood carvings in Hongcun so exquisite.It is said that in the Chengzhi Hall, once the home of the richest man in the village, there is an exquisitely carved beam.In order to show the piano, chess, calligraphy and painting on the carved beams, 36 figures of different shapes are carved vividly, which is amazing.

Huizhou buildings are mostly small buildings with brick and wood structures. In the Ming Dynasty, the upper floors were characterized by spaciousness. After the Qing Dynasty, most of them were three-room houses with one hall and two bedrooms or quadrangle houses with one hall and three bedrooms. dark.The gate is decorated with stone and brick carvings of landscape figures. The gate tower is often built with double eaves and flying corners, and high firewalls are built around it to form a courtyard.Huizhou architecture has the characteristic of multiple entrances in one house.Generally speaking, a family lives in the same house, and each family lives in one house.On weekdays, the middle gate is closed, and each family lives alone. When it is time for sacrifices, the middle gate is opened, and the clansmen all enter and exit through the gate to pay homage to their ancestors.

Walking in Xidi and Hongcun, there is always an inexplicable feeling, as if there is an ancient atmosphere here, washing away the noise and impetuosity in people's hearts, and it constantly reminds you that life is not about consumption and use, but about enjoyment.

(End of this chapter)