walk all over China

Chapter 7 Shanxi·Li Min's Joy

Mount Godai

In the land that was once sparsely populated, wisdom was awakened in an instant, leaving a trace of prosperity.Shanxi is a colorful region, with ancient traces to be found and mountains to climb. Under the protection of Buddha's light, it shows peace, tranquility and well-being.The architectural masterpieces from the folk made the royal family sigh, and in an inadvertent moment, they strangled the Yellow River, which was galloping wantonly at the mouth of the Hukou.Shanxi is famous for its landforms and haunts people for its history.

In Wutai Mountain, which is like a fairyland on earth, you can walk through dense forests, cross clear streams, breathe fresh air, and enjoy the charming scenery. Wouldn't it be pleasant to travel like this?

Mount Wutai, located in Shanxi Province, is not only a famous Buddhist holy place, but also a rare summer resort.It is as famous as Mount Putuo in Zhejiang, Mount Emei in Sichuan, and Mount Jiuhua in Anhui, and has a long history.Among several colorful ancient buildings, countless faithful men and women come here to offer incense, and countless Chinese and foreign tourists come here to spend summer.

About Mount Wutai, a legend that has been passed down for thousands of years has been widely praised by people.According to legend, the climate of Mount Wutai was harsh and extremely hot, and the flying sand and rocks all over the mountains made the local people miserable.In order to save the common people, Manjusri Bodhisattva borrowed Xielongshi from the Dragon King of the East China Sea to suppress the tormenting demons.In order to commemorate the kindness of Manjusri Bodhisattva, people specially built Qingliang Temple and called it "Qingliang Mountain".It was not renamed until the Northern Qi Dynasty, because it is surrounded by five flat-topped peaks, so it is called "Wutai Mountain".Xiantong Temple is the temple with the longest history in Mount Wutai.In this temple with an area of ​​about 8 square meters, there are more than 5 large and small bronze Buddha statues, and the [-]-ton bronze bell on the bell tower in front of the gate, every time it is struck, the sound is loud and leisurely, spreading throughout the mountain.

Tayuan Temple was originally the pagoda courtyard of Xiantong Temple. When the relics were rebuilt in the Ming Dynasty, it was independent as a temple. It was built by ancient Indian kings 2000 years ago.It is located in front of the temple. Because of its tall, eye-catching and superior location, it was once regarded as the landmark building of Mount Wutai.

Among the 130 temples, large and small, you can always feel the history and culture of Mount Wutai.Walking in it, it is like going back in time, and the feeling of returning to the original nature arises spontaneously. It is a heavy precipitation, but it is sublimated to a more dazzling light all the time.How can the vivid and detailed Buddhist culture and the splendid China bred by the fertile soil make people sigh?Perhaps, amidst the lush greenery, the silence of Mount Wutai is the most profound realm in Buddhism, and those countless incense sticks are the deepest devout memory of Buddhist believers.

Hengshan
The benevolent love mountains, the wise love water.Walking into Hengshan is like walking into a picture scroll of benevolence and wisdom, and the eyes are full of Zen.

Mount Heng, straddling the two provinces of Shanxi and Hebei, is known as Beiyue, and together with Dongyue Taishan, Xiyue Huashan, Nanyue Hengshan, and Zhongyue Songshan, is also known as the "Five Sacred Mountains". A wonder in the landscape and a battleground. The title of "Excellent Famous Mountain" is full of people's love for it.

According to legend, 4000 years ago, Emperor Shun came to Hengshan in search of hunting. Seeing its steepness and incomparable peaks, he named it Beiyue.In the time of Qin Shihuang, the imperial court named the twelve famous mountains in the world, and Mount Heng was elected as the second in the world.Later monarchs of successive dynasties sent their ministers to make pilgrimages here, and countless literati and poets came here to visit, making Hengshan a bright spot in Chinese history.

Walking into Hengshan, you can immediately feel a kind of plain and simple solemnity.In the ancient temple of Shansong, it is introverted, and among the steep and dangerous rocks, its strangeness is quiet.Hengshan is like a benevolent man with a broad mind, and the empty atmosphere in his stomach makes people feel inferior.In fact, Hengshan is also calm.Among the stone steps, next to a flock of birds, it does not show any hypocrisy, as if it is rejecting the grace of the world, but it cannot hide its inner light.

Pine is an ordinary but unique landscape in Mount Heng.Hengshan pine has a unique style. Among them, four ancient pine trees from the Tang Dynasty are called "Four Great Pine Trees" by later generations.Looking at the vigorous rhizome hanging outside the stone, the posture of firmly grasping the rock, the proud and upright figure, and the verdant and verdant aura, people can't help but think of the ancient saying "Heaven moves vigorously, and a gentleman strives for self-improvement".

"Xuankong Temple is half a day high, and three horsetails hang in the air." This folk proverb refers to the first landscape of Beiyue Hengshan——Xuankong Temple.On the west peak, among the pines, the Hengshan Temple headed by Beiyue Temple looms, and the mysterious atmosphere always attracts tourists from all over the world.Every time it is rainy, wisps of clouds will swim out of the exit of the cloud cave, like the aftermath of becoming a fairy, which makes people think endlessly.Therefore, people's sighs are left - "Hengshan cloud is endlessly changing".

Looking up from Huixian Mansion, the steep figure of Mount Heng appeared in the sky.The slightly aged figure looks like a benevolent man in his twilight years, his eyes are full of gains and losses, and he is not surprised by favor or humiliation.

What Hengshan Peak reflects may be the true meaning of "Heng".Hengshan is far away and long, but it makes people see the truth of "the best kindness is like water".Mount Heng is cold and decisive, but it is extraordinary and profound.

Pingyao Ancient City
Traveling through the tunnel of time, an ancient city appeared in front of you.The cramped alleys and the moment when the setting sun fades away make people forget the change of day and night. In the touch marks of blue bricks and gray tiles, there is still the gentleness of Ming and Qing Dynasties.

An ancient city bears too many past events, and what is left to future generations is a thousand-year puzzle.In the 43rd year of Kangxi, the emperor passed by here on a west tour, and with an order, buildings were built on all sides, and the city of Pingyao has become more spectacular since then.In the perimeter of more than 6000 meters, Pingyao is divided into two, with flowers blooming on the other side of the city, and the outside of the city seems like a world away.Inside the wall, there are faintly Ming and Qing Dynasties, streets, shops, and market buildings; outside the wall, new sites are emerging.The ancient and modern complement each other, which makes people sigh.

Standing on the unique tower, it seems that I was a scholar hundreds of years ago, looking at my official career dream from above the tower.

In the center of the ancient city, an 18-meter-high city building is particularly eye-catching.Surrounding it are eight main streets, eight small streets and 72 alleys. Looking around, the layout is reasonable and orderly.In the streets of Pingyao, ancient shops and ancient signboards can be seen everywhere, either elegant or eye-catching.In such a situation, history is no longer far away, and reaching out to touch the archway is a dialogue with history.The true meaning of antiquity is vividly interpreted.

Pingyao is the place where the country's first bank account was born. "Rishengchang" was founded here.For China's modern financial industry, its establishment has an important position.At that time, some large merchants operated large cross-regional businesses, and because it was inconvenient to carry huge amounts of cash, a bank account industry specializing in remittances was born.In Pingyao's heyday, "Rishengchang" once had more than [-] stores across the country. Due to its honesty and trustworthiness, its business even went to Japan, Singapore and other foreign regions.The small bank actually "connects the world", and the wisdom of the predecessors is even admired by future generations.The museum built on the original site of the bank account not only records the rise and fall of the bank account industry, but also the unique architectural art, which also attracts more people to observe.

Pingyao is just like its name, ordinary and far away.How about a piece of beef, a local specialty? "Fat but not greasy, thin but not firewood", it turns out that this beef has been practiced for hundreds of years!

The merchants of Pingyao created an era, which continues to this day.They rely on their hard work, honesty and trustworthiness to continue the prosperous fire here.The shoes stepped on the stone-paved ground and made a rattling sound in the alley. Walking here, my heart is full of joy.How much I want to keep going like this, walking into the tranquility of the ancient city, into the time of the ancient city... The journey along the way will compose the follow-up chapter of Shanxi merchant culture along with the beautiful state of mind.

"Compound"

拾零
Shanxi has a unique geographical location, the hinterland of material exchange between the Central Plains and the northern nomads, and in addition to the sparsely populated areas in central and southern Shanxi, people naturally chose to go out for business.Because of the honest and trustworthy character, the united and thrifty style of work, and the rigorous and scientific management, the business of Shanxi Merchants has made great progress.After returning to their hometown, they built a lot of big houses.

A "Raise the Red Lantern" not only made a woman, but also made a courtyard.Since then, the "compounds" in the Jinzhong area have been out of control, and no matter what season, there will be an endless stream of tourists.A piece of yellow land, a piece of uncivilized chaos, just like the landscape when Pangu created the world.Inadvertently awakened, after several vicissitudes, it finally became a special regional customs praised by people after the changes of ancient and modern times.

A corner of Qiao's courtyard

After the TV series "Qiao's Courtyard" hit the air, the Qiao's Courtyard in Shanxi, where its story took place, has become a place that people pay more attention to.

More than 40 years ago, when the master Liang Sicheng inspected ancient buildings in Shanxi, he was deeply impressed by the profundity contained in the richness.In his memoirs, he wrote with emotion: "There may be two or three houses of this kind in a village, facing each other far away, and one can still imagine the arrogance of that day, the large area it occupies, the height of the outer wall, the height of the masonry and wood. The craftsmanship and the complexity of the pavilions and other courtyards are all out of our expectation... Looking from the outside of the village, you can still see it from a distance of more than ten miles.

Shanxi has a unique geographical location, the hinterland of material exchange between the Central Plains and the northern nomads, and in addition to the sparsely populated areas in central and southern Shanxi, people naturally chose to go out for business.Because of the honest and trustworthy character, the united and thrifty style of work, and the rigorous and scientific management, the business of Shanxi Merchants has made great progress.Due to the unshakable attachment to their hometown, the businessmen who worked hard abroad bought houses in their original places after their prosperity, and compound houses miraculously appeared on that not-so-vast piece of land in Jinzhong.

Luxurious and elegant, this is the truest portrayal of the strength of Shanxi merchants.The endless high walls of the compound seem to be filled with endless glory and wealth.

"The royal family has the Forbidden City, and the private houses are Qiao's." Qiao's compound is the first one known to people.In this completely castle-like building, the courtyard wall is like a city wall, which can be seen in its height.In the past, the watchman walked on the courtyard wall at night, and every time the sound of the clapper sounded, it was so loud that it could be heard in a radius of ten miles.The layout of the Qiao Family Courtyard emphasizes a square, well-organized architectural style with luxurious furniture. At a glance, one can't help but think of the various things in the compound when it was prosperous.A number of fiery red lanterns hang high on the courtyard wall, burning up the vicissitudes of the past.

The Qu family is a giant merchant in Jinzhong who has been famous throughout the country since the Ming and Qing Dynasties. From this point of view, the Qu family compound has become a house that cannot be ignored.The rare five-entry courtyard, railing courtyard, unified building courtyard and box-style theater courtyard are known as the "four wonders" of the Qujia courtyard.Looking from a distance, the well-proportioned ceilings, hanging mountain style, resting mountain style, rolling shed style, hard mountain top style... people are amazed.The exquisite stone carvings in the courtyard show the elegance and beauty of the Qu Family Courtyard.

The Cao Family Courtyard is prominent in its aura of wealth and honor.The overall structure complies with the "longevity" in seal script calligraphy. Long life, good fortune and many children are the main purpose of the Cao Family Courtyard. Although the three four-story halls are not domineering, they are full of nobility.

Among the continuous mountains, on a hillside, the Wang Family Courtyard stands in its unique posture.The overall structure of the Red Gate Fort complex has a word "Wang" hidden in it. As the descendants of the Taiyuan Wang family, the Jingsheng Wang family, the compound seems to be full of their ardent expectations for the family.

Each compound shows unique folk customs, and each scene contains Chinese Shanxi merchant culture.From these magnificent buildings and from these patterns with rich meanings, we seem to revisit the context of Shanxi merchant culture.Regardless of the real reason for the decline of the compound, just looking at the magnificence and luxury of the buildings in the compound and the brilliance that complement each other is enough for people to let their imaginations fly and travel thousands of miles.

Pingyao is known as "the Forbidden City of the people".When you get here, you will find that this statement is by no means false.

Houses in the ancient city of Pingyao
Hukou Waterfall is a kind of impulse, a kind of hard work, as if you are in the rolling waves, you are shocked physically and mentally.The magnificent scene like ten thousand horses galloping together conquered all the senses in an instant.

For a long time, we have been accustomed to using the Yellow River in various metaphors. Its galloping, uninhibited, and mighty might make other rivers pale in comparison.Before encountering Hukou, the Yellow River was an immortal legend.

I don't know whether the canyon conquered the Yellow River or the Yellow River feared the canyon. In the Shanxi-Shaanxi Grand Canyon, a waterfall was formed in this way. "Originally from Kunlun and Yan Daliu, Yuguan Nine Turns a pot to harvest." This is the description of it by the ancients.In front of it, no matter how arrogant the Yellow River was, it was suddenly shrunk.As the river water continued to gather, Pentium roared and jumped into the deep pool, and in an instant, huge waves splashed infinitely.It was as if a divine hand poured over a giant pot, and what poured out continuously from the mouth of the pot was the rolling Yellow River water.

Hukou Waterfall borders Shaanxi in the west and Shanxi in the east, with a width of 30 meters and a depth of about 50 meters. The largest waterfall exceeds 3 square meters.In China, it is the second largest waterfall besides Huangguoshu in Guizhou Province.Whenever the Yellow River flows here, the torrent over 500 meters wide is instantly restrained, forming a trend of being wide at the top and narrow at the bottom. It is called "Hukou Waterfall".

In Hukou Waterfall, the two famous wonders are very rare.

Due to the huge drop of Hukou Waterfall and the rapid flow of water under the waterfall, it is almost impossible to sail here.Ships from the upper reaches of Hukou must stop at the Dragon King Temple above. After all the goods are replaced, people will pick them up with poles or carry them with animals until they arrive at the pier downstream.At the same time, the empty ship must be supported downstream.When the water flow slows down, reload people and things, and move on.However, the process of "sailing on dry land" is often full of hardships.

Another landscape is called "Smoke from the bottom of the water".At the place where the Yellow River meets Hukou, a large amount of water mist is instantly aroused, and the water mist turns into small water droplets when it rises into the sky. When viewed from a distance of tens of miles, it is a dense smog that permeates the sky for a long time. refused to disperse.

If you have extraordinary courage, you might as well go to the boulder only a few meters away from the waterfall to leave a moment worth cherishing.After a while of shock, the pride of conquering the Yellow River will definitely make people unforgettable, and together with the drenched and brownish-yellow mud spots all over the body, it will become an eternal memorial.

Furukawa Attractions
On the south side not far from Hukou Waterfall is Mengmen, the upper entrance of Longmen. "Mengmen Yeyue" and "Zhenhe Stone Niu" of Dayu's water control are placed separately.Tourists visit Hukou first, then Mengmen Gate, and finally Longmen Gate, known as the "Three Wonders of the Yellow River Tour".

Coming to Hukou Waterfall to watch the Yellow River pour is more like a baptism. You can really experience the true nature of the big waves washing the sand in the sound of the wind and water.It seems violent, but it can still coexist harmoniously with nature and grow into a unique landscape.In the refraction of the sun, the rainbow is faintly visible, and the colorful colors are actually another kind of magnificence displayed by the flying flow of the Yellow River.

(End of this chapter)