Big play bone

On the blue sky, I can't see the clouds. The golden sun has no blocking vertically, in the sparkling sea, I am screaming in the sparkling sea, and I am smeared on a layer of shallow color for every spray. Let the roaring ocean changing the distant colorful, calm and wonderful, as if opened a embrace, giving birth to the world's life.

But at this time, a exciting voice shouted, breaking the quiet peace, "Come!"

A small figure is on the narrow surfboard, seeing the jelly color waves from the distant swept, and slide the bipilers agility, move forward toward the waves. The waves reflected in the background of the wide sea, it seems to be high; but compare the little figure, but nearly three people are so high, this should be a five or six meters of huge waves, enough to be fragile The huge waves of life.

However, the figure like the white surfboard is not fear, but it is extremely exciting. He looked at the huge waves in front of him. When the top of the top, when he can feel the rising momentum of the rum, it is standing quickly. The legs of the legs, grasp the center of gravity, and then the whole person stepped on the waves and climbed.

I saw him walking in the thin blue waves, and the open arms are like a gossk, and the wind is soaring, the refreshing spray is constantly scattered in the air, mixing gold and blue halo, one one The frying is cracking, and it is slightly felt to be on the cheek, and there is a whole person, it is integrated with the ocean.

The waves have risen to the highest point, and he also stepped on the surfboard to the highest point, then wear the thin waves, the whole person seems to ride on the waves, the body is solid and stable, perfectly balanced and accurate Controlling the waves of the sea, under the surfboard, the snorted sliding became a beautiful enjoyment.

The waves, a little bit more, and the surfboard gradually returned to the sea level. Finally, the man standing on the surfboard raised his arms, and the curved knee was completely standing. The vibration arm cheered, and the smile is dancing in the roar of the waves.

Paul raised his own hands, sent applause, his face was full of smiles, even if there is no language, the limbs also express the most authentic feelings in the heart, he turned the head, watching the small partners surfing around , Speaking, "Is this really surfing for the second time?"

Andre - Hamilton also applauded a congratulations, and he replied on the side. "You should not ask me. I call the blue gift into a madman, but not me." Andrews shrugged, a little is not surprised The appearance of the outer number, "However, my personal advice is, never try to speculate his behavior, because he will always let you feel frustrated."

With a ridicule, you can listen to his sincerity, which makes Paul smirked, nodded, "I expressed deep consent to this."

"The degree and excitement / love 5" officially announced prior to a week, and the late shooting did not have a sauce. All the progress of all shooting was very smooth. Paul personally experienced the entire shooting process, and for Andre's evaluation, it can't agree more. This series of works have come to the fifth. He participated in four shots, but never had such a shooting experience, truly enlarged.

Paul believes that Van also agrees with him.

After the shooting, Paul chooses a quiet coastline in accordance with his habits, and let's play with surf, relax and relax. Just, he encountered the most beautiful surfing season for a year.

Each year in December, Hawaii's Wave Island is the best season. At least three international surfing competitions will choose this at Ouhu.

For Hollywood, this is the moment of opening a year, the bustling and noisy of Los Angeles, almost no one is willing to miss. However, for Paul, those noisy have no relationship with him, so he will not miss the prosperity of Hawaii every year.

This time, Paul invited Blue Rise to go together, "degree and excitement / love 5" boot at the beginning, they discussed things that came to Ohu Island surfing, Blue Rich is very proactive. However, at this time, after entering the award season, "live buried" shows a good rise moment, according to the reason, he is best to return to Los Angeles and launch the work of the college public relations.

Paul originally thought that the blue ceremony refused, but he was still in courtesy and invited. Didn't think of it, Blue Rise actually picked up! So he was fortunate to see the scene just now.

After the sliding waves, the Blue Rise was restored on the surfboard, sliding with both hands, slowly slipped in Paul and Andre's direction.

In December, the warmth of Hawaii is still around twenty degrees, warm and comfortable, there is no summer heat, but it is far from the cold winter, occasionally there will be some thunderstorms, such as the rain like the misty water, let the air float the air. Hot air, you can't help but you want to pull it out wholeheartedly.

This makes the Blue Square, he didn't go to Los Angeles, but came to Hawaii. He needs a holiday, "love crazy" and "degree and excitement / love 5" continuous shooting, in nearly four months, there is no space, a work is spiritual. Overdraft, a piece of work is the consumption of physical strength. It is like the riser of mountain cars. It is really exhausted. He needs to let the tight spirit relax, and then you can re-enter the job.

More importantly, he needs to slow down, enjoy the scenery of life.

Surf is a very wonderful thing, it seems to be integrated with the sea, and it seems to be driving the waves, the whole person is soaked by the magical mystery of nature, and the wind, the wind, the water, the flowing waves The pull-pull pull, everything is so wonderful, only the rhythm of the waves can only enjoy the freedom on the surfboard.

Just now, that is the first time he finished the entire wave, there is no error, no mistakes, no flaws, from the rising period of the waves, the whole wave disappears, and the process of surfing is done; and just now Still a big waves nearly six meters.

This is different from rock climbing, and it feels a very different limit, but the smoothness and enjoyment of freedom is similar. Blue Rise finally understood why some people were so passionately surfing, and they participated in it every day, and they were not tired. He has also begun to love this movement.

" ", not only Paul and Andre, other surfing friends have also applauded, giving praise for Blue Li.

Here is the east bank of Wahu, compared to the private surfing, real surfers know it. If said that the North Shore of Wahu is a professional player's resort, then the eaveshore is a paradise for amateurs.

The waves here are huge enough, but they are not as dangerous as the cylindrical huge waves in the north bank. Occasionally, you can also encounter the top large waves of the five, six meters, for intermediate, advanced amateur players, but it is still right. .

Blue Rich and others are here not a singleer, sitting on the sea, floating more than a dozen surfboards, sitting on the surfers of different ages. When there is no surfing, they will choose to rely far, restore physical strength; but are ready to continue surfing, they will slide to the waiting area in front, start waiting.

Blue rites have no modest, but have made a shady curtain of a stage play, and then returned to Paul and Andre.

Andre used the right hand to gently patted the palm of the left hand, almost no applause, just made a handset, express tribute, smell, "Sure enough, Blue Rich is still blue."

When they are not the children in Eaton; but they will meet again, Blue Rich is still stunning, and admire.

The last freehand climbing has been over for a few months. I didn't think two people actually reunited again in Hawaii, and still in the surfing paradise. After staying away from the aristocratic circle of London, two people found together, and the bridge of friendship was again re-built.

Blue Rise said smiling, "But Andre is no longer the Andre."

This sentence will make two people show a shallow smile. Andre bends down the waist, wet the arms with the sea, combing messy heads to the back, avoiding the hanging hood to block the horizon, and then said to Paul and Blue Rise, "I have out."

After that, Andre started with both hands paddles, went to the front area.

"I have seen it before, the whole person is rolled into the waves, and it is necessary to sprint in the inner wall of the waves.

Blue Li depicts Paul, when he watched the film of "extremes" in the first generation, I appreciated the style of surfing. I actually participated. I feel more exciting than I imagined, but it seems to be on the movie. Difference.

Paul immediately responded. "That is the tubular huge waves, it is the most difficult. Just like you said, you need to fight the gravity of the heart, need to form inertia, not only the balance, not only a balanced problem, but it takes a high skill. "For surf, Paul is the teacher of Blue Rise." I used to go to the north bank to challenge once. Wow, the experience is really unbearable, and I'm going to be green, it seems to be beaten for two days and two nights. "

The vivid description made the blue rites laughed, "I said like this, I am a little curious. Is there a professional surfing contest in the north shore? How? Do you want to open an eye in the past?"

Grasp the moment every moment, cherish every moment now, deduct your life. Different colors. This is true to live.

295 dog

The sunset beach located in the north bank of Oahu is now the most famous tubular huge waves gather. Every year, there are countless tourists who have been brave, or they leave a figure in this tour, either jump to try to try The legendary tubular huge waves is either a special trip to dress / force the sun to be beach equivalent to the director's Stanley, Kubrick, pretend to be a deep must-have.

Therefore, for many real masters, they are tired of sunset sand, along the North Coastline, walk all the way, and find three, four hidden beaches, enjoy the private space of no people. However, for commercial competitions, it is a good game.

The surf match is usually starting at 8 o'clock in the morning, and it will start until three in the afternoon. It is because the weather is not surprising after the evening, the waves tend to be more dangerous, not suitable for surfing; second is because it is necessary to surf the surfing time, because every row is suitable for surfing, the player must wait, So each player can get 30 minutes of waiting time, plus the middle rest time, and the game will inevitably be longer.

When the Blue Gifts arrived in the sunset, it was already ten o'clock, but the parking space near the beach is already full. Today, I am responsible for the driver's Andre, I have to get around for a while, this is the far end Under the palm trees, I found a vacancy, successfully put the car, and then three people walked toward the game.