Practice being alone: ​​when I started to love myself

Chapter 11 Ending: Fingerprints of Destiny
When the year was about to pass, I decided to go to see the highest mountain in the world.It seems that only in this way can we draw a good end to this willful year.

Autumn travel.My heart is heavy, like an apple that is about to ripen.Looking at the past, there is hope in everything.

set off
The taxis in Tibet are scrolling through an advertisement: There is no faraway place in the world, and the world is a paradise.

It is even more meaningful for someone like me who has come from afar to read it.The street outside the window began to wake up at 9 am, and the noise of the city was no different from any city I have ever passed by.

Except for altitude.

The high reverberation makes the heart beat faster, the tinnitus continues, and the passage of time seems to have an unclear rhythm.The sky on the plateau will not officially go dark until about 10 o'clock.So I counted the passing of the day by unfolding and putting away the water supply bowl in front of the Tara statue in the hotel.

I never knew that there is so much rain in Lhasa, the City of Sunshine. In the evening, it often looks like it rains into autumn.

Driving through the square in front of the Potala Palace, there is a feeling of passing through a textbook.I am too familiar with the grandeur of the front of the Potala Palace. It turned out that from the side view, the Potala Palace in the twilight is beautiful and lonely, like a pensive side, waiting for the person I love.

Before departure, go to the Jokhang Temple to pray.Princess Wencheng used Chinese Fengshui theory to suppress the door of evil ways, and the story of using goats to carry mountains to fill the lake to build the Jokhang Temple has been passed down for a long time. It also created a Tibetan Pingchuan-style temple pattern, and has a special status in Tibetan Buddhist areas.The 12-year-old Sakyamuni Buddha statue, which was preserved after the war in the temple, is one of the three statues of Sakyamuni in the world. It was drawn by Sakyamuni himself, depicting his appearance when he was 12 years old.Looking at this gilt bronze statue in the dimly lit main hall, I can't believe that so many years have passed.Today, Tibetans travel thousands of miles to bring hot buttered tea to worship, just like they did more than 1000 years ago.

The most touching thing is the Tibetans kowtowing at the entrance of the Jokhang Temple and outside the courtyard wall. They are so focused, their clothes are torn, and their faces are covered with dust and frost. They have already ignored the material enjoyment of the world.I can't imagine any worldly desire worthy of such piety, but it is superficial and futile to measure the depth of belief by whether the wish is fulfilled or not.

Ask the aunt on the street corner to buy mulberry branches and throw them into the White Pagoda, wishing all those who travel far away will have a safe and smooth journey.

In the early morning of the third day, I stood on the slope at the entrance of the hotel and looked out at the continuous Cangshan Mountain.Looking back at the SUV that was going to follow me to the Everest base camp, it must have looked thoughtful in the eyes of others.In the middle, we will pass through the Karola Glacier, the Gyatsola Pass, and the Washboard Mountain Road with an average altitude of 5200 meters and a round trip of more than 200 kilometers.

We both belong more to the city, and we're both curious about each other's limits.So this journey must be full of wit and wit.

through
The car left Lhasa, passed the source of the Yarlung Zangbo River, and after tens of kilometers of gentle expressway, it was the way up the mountain.

Gradually rising altitude and more and more frequent hairpin turns began to show their power on people and cars, and the sound of the engine was like a long snort.As we drove into the mist, the bells of the sheep disappeared, replaced by a herd of yaks, standing silently on the steep hillside, ignoring the passing vehicles.

Before seeing Yamdrok Yumco, the first thing I saw was Gangbala Pass at an altitude of 5030 meters, which was covered with colorful prayer flags.Tibetans believe that the wind will blow the blessings on the prayer flags to where the wind can reach, so they hang the prayer flags between the valleys despite difficulties.

Yamdrok Yumco is the largest inland lake at the northern foot of the Himalayas. Along with Namtso and Manasarovar, it is one of the three holy lakes in Tibet.Overlooking the Yanghu Lake at an altitude of 4441 meters through the erratic clouds and mists, it is like looking down on a dreamland.Between the blue-gray mountains, the bright blue-green water has a life of its own, reminiscent of words like "the eyes flow".

Rest in the parking area, check the engine and tires, everything is fine.The sudden wind blows away the clouds and mist, and Yanghu Lake stretches towards the sky like blue coral branches, and at the end of the lake and mountains is the snow-covered Ningjin Kangsha Peak. This 7206-meter-high snow peak is majestic and steep. One of the four sacred mountains.

The clouds soon gathered again, and rain began to fall along the way from Yanghu Lake to Carola Glacier.On the way, we had lunch at the Lhasa restaurant in the small town of Langkazi. The dishes were very rich, including dried beef, potato stew, cold tomatoes and fried rice with eggs.The altitude difference of more than 2000 meters in the morning finally showed its power. As soon as I sat down at the dining table, I heard the buzzing of my temples. It was the sound of blood flowing through the blood vessels at a high speed. A few simple steps can also make me fully understand what it means to walk hard .The world seems to be separated by a layer of membrane, and everything outside of this body is a bright dream. In the dream, there is a handsome boy, rain that comes when it is said, and clouds that disperse when it is said.The owner of the restaurant is familiar with the way, and he brought butter tea neatly. After drinking two cups, he felt that his hands and feet belonged to him again, and his heart returned to his chest.

After this meal, we will cross the 4330-meter Smila Pass and arrive at the continental glacier: Karola.

The famous National Road 318 was in good condition, the rain stopped half an hour later, and the Carola Glacier was in sight.

The Karola Glacier originated from the dangerous Jingangsang Mountain. She gave birth to more than 100 glaciers, and the largest area is Karola, covering 9.4 square kilometers, backed by the sacred mountain Naiqinkangsang.Facing the hurricane between the glaciers, the car overcame the slippery ground, drove over a 30-degree slope, and came under the ice sheet.The dazzling white ice cap hangs vertically from the gentle top, with a stern aura, like a giant beast ready to go, standing on the edge of the valley, it seems that you can still hear the crisp sound of ice melting and cracking echoing in the well-defined serac forest. .

With the intensification of the greenhouse effect, I don't know how long this ice and snow monster can stay on the black mountain rock.It looked helplessly and silently at these tiny human beings who came to it in shock and then left in a hurry, enduring the harm and fate they brought.

Because of the rain, the sky darkened quickly, and we did not stop for the rest of the journey.After passing Gyantse, the night was like a black curtain that suddenly fell.The pink Gyantse Castle passed by in a hurry outside the car window, and what greeted us was the transfer station of the night: Shigatse.

The heavy rain in Shigatse lasted all night, which is much better than Lhasa.Behind the shadows of the mountains came horizontal lightning.The local people say that this is because there are no evildoers in this land, so the lightning will not fall.

Such weather conditions are likely to miss the opportunity to overlook Mount Everest at the Gyatso La Pass.In addition to admiring the mountains in the rain, I can only pray secretly.

After passing the 318-kilometer monument on National Highway 5000, prayers were heard and the thick clouds cleared.When we arrived in Latse, the sky was clear and the sunlight was as sharp as the most famous Tibetan knife here.

The road ahead still greets us with endless winding mountain roads.However, the weather on the plateau is fickle. When we arrived at the Gyatso-la Pass at an altitude of 5253 meters, thick clouds gathered again, and the prayer flags fluttered in the cold gray mist.

Arrived in the small town of Tingri in the evening, the whole town was full of wind and dust, and there was no electricity or hot water in the hotel.As soon as the car was parked, the mountains quickly disappeared into the dark night, and the temperature dropped sharply.I lighted the candles carefully, and found that my heartbeat increased every step I took. I had to pile up all the quilts I could find on my body, and try to sleep as much as possible to cope with the difficult road conditions tomorrow.

The next day, I ate an indescribably delicious breakfast in the dark, and set off before dawn.After crossing the border defense, we were greeted by more than 110 kilometers of intestine-like winding mountain roads. The road conditions can only be described as extremely poor, and the crisp sound of gravel hitting the car can be heard constantly in the flying dust.The average altitude of this gravel road is 4800 meters. We want to pass as soon as possible to reduce the torture, but we must also pay attention to the speed of the vehicle to protect the tires and suspension system. Between this contradiction and struggle, the sky is bright and the sun is shining. We are like breaking free from gravity. After driving out of the darkness, I suddenly felt a lot easier.

After about three hours, we finally arrived at the Mount Everest viewing platform at an altitude of 5200 meters.It happened to be September 9st, the day when the school started, and my Cheru and I, as nervous and naive students, withstood the most difficult first test and handed in a passing answer sheet.

In the distance, Mount Everest is so pure and dazzling in the morning light that a ray of cloud on the mountainside seems to be her sighing.Eyes adapted to the light, and gradually recognized Lhotse Peak, Zhuoqiong Peak, Makalu Peak, and Zhangzi Peak next to them.

I don't know if it was because of the high reaction or the excitement, but at that moment my heart beat out of control, and my chest was about to explode at any time.I know exactly what it takes to stand on top of the world, but at this moment in the golden morning light, facing the biting cold wind, I imagine the people who first named these mountains, how they pondered and scrutinized, looking for the right words, as in A star of the exact shape was plucked from the starry sky.Let later people feel happy and sacred when they say the names of these distant mountains one by one.

And I, who came here after a long, long time, feel so fortunate that there are still such magnificent scenery in this world that are worth traveling thousands of miles and going through hardships.

arrival
What follows is the last and most difficult part of the journey: the journey to Everest Base Camp.

The dirt road between cottage villages seems to be more suitable for cattle and horses. The gravel and shallow pits make the road surface like a washboard, and no thick gloves can resist the pain caused by the vibration to the hands.And our car fights against such difficult road conditions with the performance of an urban SUV, maintaining its reputation.When climbing hills and entering corners, the engine is stable as usual.I looked at the sky in the distance, and I just wanted to reach the base camp before the thick clouds swept in from a distance.

The sky on the plateau is really like destiny, simple and clear yet unpredictable.

When Mount Everest finally appeared at the end of the mountain road, I was much calmer than expected.The sentries registered their identity information, explained the precautions, and the prayer flags flew in the wind.

This road is like this, as if traveling through thousands of rivers and mountains, I just look at it, then turn around and say goodbye, and return the same way.There is always a distance of eight kilometers between me and the third pole of the world. Perhaps this is the closest we have been in this life.

bid farewell
On the way back, we passed a small village. There was a stone garden at the entrance of the village. The walls were built of stones. Inside was a sea of ​​snow-white and crimson flowers.I will never know who this garden belongs to, but the traces of layers of care are unmistakable in the twilight.Reminds me of those love stories in the city, which have gone through many twists and turns, and finally ended in a mess, quietly, without the soil to cultivate the water and soil, which is straightforward.

Looking back on this journey, it may be due to altitude sickness, or the fatigue of the journey. My mind often goes blank, and I can’t remember why I have to go through such troubles. It’s like I can’t remember where to put my sunglasses.But maybe it is the most correct thing to do so hard without remembering the reason.

On the way down the mountain, the tires were cut by sharp stones, and the sky was getting dark. While waiting, I sat on the suitcase and watched the rain in the valley. The rain hung between the mountains like a curtain.Heavy rain on the left hand, sunny day on the right hand.

All the way silent, he suddenly came up behind me and said: Look at the lines on that mountain, do they look like fingerprints?
This stranger who accompanied me to see the highest mountain in the world.

I nod.Together we watched the Himalayas spread in the twilight and the mist rise from the Brahmaputra Valley.

I insist on traveling all these years, not looking for the pleasure brought by unfamiliar scenery or the comfort given by a short escape.

I'm asking for a little distance, like taking a step back and looking into a mirror, so that what's inside of me can be clearly seen.

Just like at this moment, I see mountains and rivers stretching into the palm lines of fate, which is what the rest of my life looks like: the sun seems to never set, villages are guarded by mountains, and common people are blessed by gods.

And I finally met you.

Everything is so simple, clear and open.

(End of this chapter)