You are the april day of the world

Chapter 32 Jinfen Ancient Architecture Preliminary Investigation Record (1)
Go to summer to take advantage of the summer vacation and make a trip to Jinfen.The Yudao River outside Fenyang City is an excellent place to spend summer on the right side of the mountain; the land is located at the foot of Baibiao Mountain, because there is a "horse running spring" in the head of the god, since Song Taizong's horse kicked out the sweet spring, it saved the thirsty The three armies, this spring has never stopped flowing.For thousands of years, it has provided the driving force for dozens of mills along the river, until the electric mill established the center of Shanxi flour industry in Pingyao. The mill has also become a summer villa for many foreigners.

Speaking of the summer vacation places for Chinese people, which one is not the world opened by foreigners, such as Beidaihe, Guling, Moganshan... So Yudaohe is no exception.In fact, last year the Yudao River escaped the summer heat, except for a professor who married a British wife and us, all of them were foreigners who preached in the interior of Shanxi.In those short ten days, it made people feel like "there are so few people".

Based on the Yudao River in Fenyang, we have made many trips to neighboring counties, and we have stopped in eight counties, namely Taiyuan, Wenshui, Fenyang, Xiaoyi, Jiexiu, Lingshi, Huoxian, Zhaocheng, the distance between Jiexiu and Zhaocheng is more than [-] miles. Because the Tongpu Railway is being built on the mountain, and many sections of the road have been destroyed, most of it is on foot. The taste is particularly strong.There is at least two centuries of difference between living in the wind and rain, and living a rough and simple life for two weeks, compared with ordinary cities.There are no less than thirty or forty ancient structures that we have visited, relics from the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, and we have encountered them everywhere. Now we only choose to record them.

Fenyang County Yudaohe Longtian Temple

In our residence, there are several small temples on the two walls of the Yudao River.The real temple on Dongyan is famous for its beautiful scenery.The Longwang Temple in Shentou has enjoyed thousands of years of fireworks because of the horse running spring. In front of the main hall, there is a blackened Song stele. As a guarantee of this era, this stele is the only "ancient artifact" in this temple.There is a Guandi Temple at the south end of Xiyan, which has been built several times and has mixed styles, which is very interesting.Although there is nothing amazing about the age or structure of the Longtian Temple in the north, it is beautiful and neat, and we can regard it as a representative work of small temples in the south of Shanxi.

The Longtian Temple is on the West Rock, facing south. Its east facade, the back of the verandah, the bell tower and the surrounding wall form a long silhouette.Under the shade of the setting sun, it can most arouse the interest of passers-by along the stream.The vision of temples in Shanxi has two characteristics, no matter how big or small: one is the three-dimensional organization, which is beautiful in balance, and the parts are uneven, and the size depends on each other, which is just right from any point of view; The color is pure and smooth, mostly reddish yellow, drunk with the hills and plains in the eyes, and it is so gorgeous, especially when the sun sets, the bricks and stones are dyed, and the far and near are bright red, which is very beautiful.On these two points, Longtian Temple is no exception.Outsiders in the valley have not known its name for 30 years, but according to this impression, it is not without reason that this temple is called "Sunset Temple".

There are winding paths up and down the earth slope around the temple. The slope is isolated like an island, far away from the villages.

There used to be a piece of pines and cypresses in front of the temple, but now there is only one old pine standing alone, silent like a guard.The gate of the temple is locked every day, and when it is rarely opened, if you meet an old man plowing outside the gate, you can temporarily borrow the rusty key and come in and out at will. Originally, most of the places in this area do not pick up lost things on the road, and do not close their doors at night, so the so-called key is only a nail. And a formal custody procedure.This phenomenon can also represent the preservation situation of many other large and small temples in the interior of Shanxi.

There is no one in the temple, and the vines and grass are shining in the evening, accompanied by the stone steps of the hall, quiet and mysterious, just like in the painting.The hatchback is a "kiln" with a flat roof and brick steps to climb up. When the weather is fine and the sun is beautiful, the surrounding scenery can be seen.The mountains in this area are gentle and tend to connect the east and west areas of the Fenhe River; looking at the peaks and peaks of Mianshan Mountain from a distance, it looks like haze from the sky; , Layer by layer, it seems to be artificial; farmers often build holes to "dwell in caves" and cultivate them.The terracotta soil of wheat and millet is horizontally layered with red and green. The holes on the cliffs at each level look like parallel bridge holes from a distance, and the scenery has its own special charm.Among the poplar clumps along the stream, earth-built flat house courtyards and mills are dotted, which are more scattered and lovely.

The plane layout of Longtian Temple has a very long north-south center line, and a mountain gate is built on the south wall.There is no lighting wall inside the door, but it is the back of the theater building.The temples we have seen in the south of central Shanxi are mostly attached theater buildings, and there is no protruding stage in the layout.The lower part is a solid pedestal, and the upper part has three walls, one of which is open, facing the main hall, which is the stage.

There is a row of mountain pillars in the middle of the platform, which can be divided into the front and back stage when it is ready to hang the curtain.On the left side of the building, there are more than ten stone steps to go up and down.In Longtian Temple, this theater building is blocking the entrance of the mountain gate to form a large screen wall.

Turning around the theater building, the courtyard is very deep. To the north of the building, there are bell and drum towers on the left and right, and a small archway in the middle.The north of the courtyard is the main hall, and the left and right side rooms are three brick cellars each.Cave dwellings are still prevalent in the rural areas of Shanxi. Brick-built kilns (that is, coupon holes) are popular in folk houses, and kilns are often built on the hatchbacks of temples for monks to live in.The kiln roof platform can go up and down from the steps outside the kiln.This point resembles the stacked earthen houses of the Mexican Red Seals, with the beauty of three-dimensional stacking organization.The Bell and Drum Tower also uses the kiln that issued the coupons as the lower platform, and a wooden square pavilion is erected on it. There are also brick steps outside the platform, attached to the foundation wall, and the square pavilion can be climbed.The whole building is mainly made of bricks, which is different from the wooden bell and drum towers in other provinces.

There is an open hall outside the front porch of the main hall, which is called "food offering shed" immediately in front of the porch.This structure is actually a rolling shed-style corridor, with walls on the two mountains and open spaces between the front and rear eaves and pillars, without decoration and walls.Its function is already very clear in the name, so there is no need to explain it.In other provinces, it is called the sacrificial hall or the front hall, which is quite far from the main hall, and it is not open. This offering shed is really another interesting way of sacrificial hall.

The main building in Longtian Temple is the main hall.There are three halls, with a corridor in front, and statues of Longtian and his wife inside.According to the stele of the 12th year of Qianlong in the Qing Dynasty under the corridor:

Those who are dragons and heavens are also Jiexiu Ling Jiahou.Gong (taboo) Hun, in the first year of Emperor Hui of Jin Yongxing, Liu Yuanhai... captured Jiexiu, Gong... died and kept his chastity, worthy of the blue sky.Later generations...so built temples to worship,...like gods erected shrines, and the construction began from then on.

In this small main hall, "the front porch has no porch behind", this is a common practice in Shanxi. Huge buckets are used under the eaves of the front porch, but very small or even no one is used for the back eaves. Outside, it is something that has never been seen in Hebei Province, especially when viewed from the side, it is quite strange.

As for this hall, according to the 12th year of Qianlong's "re-increasing the inscription on the Longtian Temple":

According to the records of Liang on the main hall, it was rebuilt by Dinghai in the Yuan Dynasty ([-] AD, the seventh year from Emperor Shundi to Zhengzheng).There are three small rooms in the main hall, one food shed, two eyes from the east and west kilns, two small rooms beside the hall, and three music buildings. ...... Jiugong remodeling, including three main halls, three food sheds, six eastern and western kilns, six eastern and western rooms next to the hall, and one gate opening... a small amount of money is reserved for the bell and drum towers of the future archway. ...So we know that although the buildings of Longtian Temple were rebuilt in the Yuan Dynasty, what we see now are all new structures added by Qianjia.

The structure of the hall, according to the big wood, is built on a hanging mountain, because the heads of the purlins protrude far beyond the center line of the column; Move it out to seal the purlin head.This practice was also absent from official buildings in the Qing Dynasty.

The buckets on the front eaves of this hall are of great weight, and the height of the buckets is about a quarter of the height of the columns;Be careful to use a 45-degree slope for the left and right stigmas and the tween shop.There is a slight curl on the column body: the forehead of the appendix is ​​in the shape of a moon beam;Many of these features can only be seen in Hebei Province in buildings built before the Song and Yuan Dynasties; but in Shanxi, they can be found everywhere in the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties. The Dingtou (known as Queti in the Qing Dynasty) on the pillar is carved into the shape of a dragon's head and an elephant's head.

The cross-section of the beams used for the beams in the hall is also smaller than the official regulations of the Qing Dynasty, and the structural parts such as the hump, the wood, and the fork are all retained from the ancient methods, which are not seen in the Qing Dynasty.

The oldest part of the whole hall is the plaque in the main hall, which says:
The head, band, and tongue of this card are all very peculiar, different from ancient and modern custom-made, I don't know if it is original, although the age of the card face is unquestionable.

Chongsheng Temple in Daxiang Village, Fenyang County is on the highway from Taiyuan to Fenyang. When you reach Fenyang, you can see a huge temple rising more than [-] meters southeast of the road, with far-reaching eaves and four corners made of bricks. Supported by pillars, attracting attention.From the east of the main hall, enter the north gate of the village, go southward along the east wall of the temple for a long distance, and then arrive at the gate of the temple.The scale of the temple is huge, and there are six gates in total.Inside the mountain gate is the Tianwang Gate, inside the Tianwang Gate are the Bell and Drum Towers on the left and right, behind the Tianwang Hall, behind the Tianwang Hall are the Front Hall, the Main Hall (Pilu Hall) and the Back Hall (Seven Buddha Hall).Except for the first entrance courtyard, each courtyard has left and right rooms. In terms of layout, it is completely in the style after Ming and Qing Dynasties, and in terms of structure, almost all entrances have different characteristics, from the early Ming to the late Qing. The styles all represent "attendance".In addition to the building itself, there is a statue tablet in front of the corridor of the main hall, which was relics of Tianbao three years in the Northern Qi Dynasty.

The stele in the first year of Hongzhi (AD [-]) in the middle of the Hall of Heavenly Kings says:

Daxiangli is under the Bu Mountain... In ancient times, She Chaji was born in the third year of Daqi Tianbao (AD 11), and in the fourth year of Dayuan Yanyou (AD [-]). The apse was built and decorated by imperial order. Cizun, with the inscription Chongsheng Zen Temple on the forehead, gradually became a large-scale... Daming Xuande Gengxu ([-] A.D. [-]th year), with a vertical nave, corridors and verandas, and thousands of trees in Zhou Zhi. ... In the [-]th year of Yiwei, Chenghua period of the Ming Dynasty ([-] A.D.), ...the Heavenly King Hall, the Garanyu Temple, and all the halls were constructed... According to the current situation, there is still a front hall between the Heavenly King Hall and the middle hall. There is still a bell tower and drum tower in front of the Tianwang hall, which is not mentioned in the inscriptions.But the so-called "planting thousands of trees" does not exist at all.

There are three gates, the most unremarkable; under the eaves, there are one bucket and three sheng buckets, the balance is very small, but the layout is still sparse.

There are three Tianwang gates, with oblique screen walls and Ye gates on the left and right.The balance of fighting is quite large, and the layout is also sparse.Each room uses a tween shop to make two flowers, and the corner columns are slightly raised, which is indeed ancient at first glance.But the exaggerated carvings on each head immediately indicate its later age.Moon beams are used for the internal beams of Tianwang Gate.However, due to the unusual shallowness of the front and rear corridors, the arrangement of the buckets on the front and rear eaves has a special structure, forming an interesting section; The lotus column makes the eaves stick out of the wall.

Behind the Tianwang Gate of the Bell and Drum Tower, there are Bell and Drum Towers on the left and right. Among them, the Bell Tower has an exquisite structure.

There are five halls of heavenly kings, which were built in the 11th year of Chenghua. The stele of the first year of Hongzhi stands in the middle of the hall;The bucket is quite big, so be careful to use a tween shop to make two flowers, and use one flower for the next time, which is majestic and ancient.

There are five front halls, which are probably the latest buildings in Chongsheng Temple. They are in the style of buckets, and the tops are entrusted to replace each other. In front of the backing boards, there are all kinds of Bogu, and the carvings are extremely fine. Regular in both structure and carving.

There are three side halls in the east and the west in the front hall, and there are several points worth noting.On the cross-section, the front and back are uneven; just like the main hall of Longtian Temple in Yudaohe, "there is no corridor behind the front porch", and the front porch uses a huge bucket, while the back porch uses a small bucket, making the sides uneven. Qi Xiang.The arrangement of the buckets is also sparse, and each room is made of a tween shop.Although the jump is only one jump, it is supported by a short real paddle in the form of a wooden stand under the high rise and the dirt road, as seen in the Haihui Hall of Huayan Temple in Datong and the top floor of the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda; Intersecting in the shape of extremely thin wings is something he has never seen before.The most peculiar thing is the connection method between the forehead and the column head. One part is cut off from both ends of the forehead, so that the upper part of the forehead rests on the column head, and the lower part intersects with the column. The function of both.Under the forehead, there is a smaller square, which grows a little longer, and the stigma is inserted in the center as a replacement. It may be something called "Chuo Mu Fang" in Volume [-] of "Zao Fa Shi".

The main hall (Pilu Hall) is probably the oldest structure in Chongsheng Temple, and the middle hall built in the fifth year of Xuande, Gengxu, etc., as recorded in the stele of the first year of Hongzhi in the Ming Dynasty refers to this.The hall is built on a hard mountain, "there is no corridor in the front and no corridor in the back", and the front eaves are made of huge buckets, and the front and back are not even.The arrangement is arranged in buckets, and each room only uses a tween shop to make one flower.There are two jumps before and after each, copying the single sheet and raising it down, rebuilding it, raising the tail upwards obliquely to connect the seam.Beware of tween effects at 45-degree angles.The forehead is very small, and there is a wide square on it. Everything is still like the ancient system.Beware of the two pillars in the middle, octagonal, this kind of pillar is often seen in brick pagodas and stone carvings in the Six Dynasties, Sui and Tang Dynasties, but it is made of wood, which is the only example we have seen.The eaves protrude quite far, but only rafters are used without flying rafters, which is the first time it has been seen in such a large building.

At the west end of the front porch stands a stele with statues of Ren Jingzhi and others in the third year of Tianbao in the Northern Qi Dynasty. There are two layers of statues on the Yang of the stele, with one Buddha and two Bodhisattvas carved on each side, and one Buddha on the forehead.The heavenly kings are engraved on the left and right sides of the upper niche, slightly resembling the two heavenly kings of Longmen.There are two lions engraved under the seat; dragons are engraved on the top of the stele, all of which are of the best quality, and the inscriptions on the bottom are even more powerful and ancient.It's a pity that the Buddha's face has been destroyed, and the writing on the inscription of the stele has also peeled off.Gu Tinglin visited this stele in Fen in the early Qing Dynasty and saw Mr. "Jinshi Wenji".

Finally, there are seven halls of seven Buddhas, which are the largest buildings in the temple and can be seen from the road.According to the stele "Records of Enhancing Chongsheng Temple" in the 20th year of Wanli in Ming Dynasty, it was "started in the 12th year of Wanli and completed in 20th year". Undoubtedly, this late Ming structure has replaced the original building in the fourth year of the Yuan Dynasty. In terms of all balances, this Ming building still retains many ancient virtues; for example, it is sparse and bright, with far-reaching eaves, and it still shows some majestic spirit.But the ministries themselves do their best to carve and embellish.The outer eaves bucket has a lot of raised mouths, and it is very curved; the carvings on the head are exquisite; , The concentration point of the load (the main building part) is actually made into a fragile and delicate pattern; the craftsman's tricks have harmed the good building, and so far, it is really regrettable.Although from the perspective of the carver, these are exquisite skills, it is a pity that they are too unreasonable. Using the building as a venue for selling skills, the result is too small to lose the big. This majestic hall will always be humiliated and bowed in art. .

The flower heart on the lattice fan of the Hall of Seven Buddhas is exquisite and unusual. It is a mixed pattern of water chestnut flowers and ball patterns.

Guoning Temple, Xinghua Village, Fenyang County

Xinghua Village is an ancient village for producing Fenjiu, which is very close to Fenyang.The main hall of Guoning Temple can be seen from the road.The hall has double eaves, and part of the upper eaves and rafters is damaged, exposing the eaves and the archway. From a distance, it looks like the building with double-layer architraves seen in the depictions of the Tang Dynasty, so it arouses great interest and hope for us. We didn't know until recently. It is the only one left in a huge temple site, an extremely irregular main hall; the front eaves collapsed, and the eaves and purlins fell suddenly, which gave people a misunderstanding of extravagance.The stele in the 28th year of Qianlong in the corridor says: "The imperial edict was given to Zhenguan in Tang Dynasty, rebuilt in Song Dynasty, and repaired in Ming Dynasty."

The existing buildings were rebuilt around Ming Dynasty.

In Shanxi, there are many buildings of the Ming Dynasty, of all shapes and styles.The floor plan of the main hall is roughly square (see Figure [-] on the next page), and the partitions of the double eaves and gold pillars are not aligned with the outer eaves and inner pillars.In terms of structure, this hall is very unique. The internal beam frame, the two mountains put the Caibu Jin Liang on the Shun Liang after a complicated collusion, and the Cai Bu Jin supports the two mountains Shun Pa Liang (or Big Angwei), a novel French style that has not been seen elsewhere.

As for the buckets in front of the lower eaves, they are restlessly placed on the capitals of the pillars, resulting in emptiness on the pillars. The practice is wrong and greatly violates the structural principles, which is rare in old buildings.

Kaizha Town, Kaizha Town, Wenshui County is not on the road. Turning east from the road, it follows the mountain and bends slightly downward. Because there are streams and big trees, the temples, villages and alleys are all hidden and not easy to see.The scale of the temple gate is very large, and the paint is peeling off.The courtyard is surrounded by ancient trees, with thick shade everywhere, and the smell is extremely serious.In addition to the main hall in the north and the music tower in the south, there are two halls in the east and west, both of which are facing south and juxtaposed with the main hall. The temple is deep, especially because the roof of the main hall rests on the mountain and faces forward. It is exquisite and ancient, like a pavilion in a painting.The roof rests on the mountain and the mountain faces forward. This is a very common system in the Song Dynasty. It is still widely used in Japan. However, in China, after the Ming Dynasty, except for the corner towers, this practice is no longer common.The Mani Hall of Zhengding Longxing Temple was built in this way, and from the other structural parts, we know that it is from the early Song Dynasty.As far as we have seen other buildings resting on the mountain, there are two temples in the Yuan Dynasty, both in Zhengding.In addition, it can be seen again in the main hall of the Holy Mother Temple in Kaizha Town, Wenshui.

The plane of the hall is in a convex shape (see Figure [-] on the previous page). The rear part is a square hall with three rooms, and the roof is suspended from the mountain; The mountain faces forward.

In the back of the fight, one jump is raised single, and the Baosha is raised twice, the arrangement is very sparse, with only one flower in the tween room.Ang did not provoke the rear end, but the structure of the bucket still has absolute functions.Above the playing head, the supporting head sticks out, and the carving is slightly like a cloud head of hemp leaves. This can be said to be the beginning of the Qing style of pointed beam head.The frame of the Xieshan part in the front is fully supported on the bucket, and the structure is precise, which can be called top grade.The structure and structure of the Guandi Temple in front of the Zhengding Yanghe Tower mostly have the same characteristics as this one.But the interior wood here is very rough, showing a simple impression.

Although the front of the Baosha looks like three rooms, it is actually only one room. There are corner columns instead of flat columns, and columns (or hugging frames) are used instead.The usage of the frontal and side fangs is slightly different, which is also a point that should be noted. The frontal fangs are used on the side fangs, but the front is not used; the height of the frontal fangs is the same as the total height of the side fangs and the general heights. , which is also uncommon.

As for the age of this hall, there is a stone inlay in the 20th year of the Yuan Dynasty (AD [-]) on the front wall, and the inscription says:

The Fu Temple was built near Xixi in the Yuan Dynasty, and it is unknown what generation it was...Later, the temple will be built here...When Liang Shu was a long live man, the sky would be ten years old and the moon of spring... Today, Zhang Ying, a stonemason, is proud of the years Deep, seeing the replacement of the pillars,... Fearing that the future will be unknown, I vowed to engrave a stele. ... Carved stone is like this.Judging from the shape, the temple must have been built before the Ming Dynasty, and because it has many similarities with Zhengding Guandi Temple, it can be concluded that it belongs to the Yuan Dynasty.

(End of this chapter)