The most interesting folklore

Chapter 11 The most interesting clothing culture (3)
At that time, when women trimmed their eyebrows, in addition to shaving off the original light eyebrows, they also had to shave their foreheads and use "Dai" to draw various eyebrow styles.Tang Xuanzong once ordered painters to design dozens of eyebrows to show his advocacy.Such as mandarin duck eyebrows, small mountain eyebrows, Wuyue (Yub, Tongyue) eyebrows, Sanfeng eyebrows, Fuyun eyebrows, fainting eyebrows, hanging leaf eyebrows, black smoke eyebrows, half forehead eyebrows, etc.The most common is the butterfly eyebrow.Zhang Ji's "Advocating Women's Ci" records "light sideburns comb broad and sweep eyebrows", Bai Juyi's "Shangyang Fabai People's Song" describes "Qingdai's eyebrows are slender" and "Don't draw long eyebrows and draw short eyebrows", etc. They all record the length, shortness, width, narrowness and shade of the thrush.Li Shangyin's poem "Stealing a mirror at the age of eight, and can draw long eyebrows" shows that Tang female thrush has reached the age of underage girls, which shows the prosperity of popularity.Thrush eyebrows in Tang Dynasty have changed in different periods.Thrush eyebrows in the Tang Dynasty were broad and thick at the beginning, but in the Kaiyuan and Tianbao years, they were still thin and thin, and the eight-character eyebrows were thin. Later, butterfly eyebrows and eight-character eyebrows were popular. In the late Tang Dynasty, makeup tended to be grotesque. At one time, sadness was regarded as strange and beautiful, and morbidity was regarded as beautiful. Sad makeup with splayed eyebrows, black lips, and bloated hairstyles are typical examples of this period.In short, the hairstyles and makeup of Tang Ren and the mid-Tang Dynasty generally tended to be diverse, natural, healthy, and lively, while those in the late Tang Dynasty tended to be abnormal, depressed, depressed, and sick.

24. What is the shape of the round neck gown?

Wrapping the toe, wearing a round-neck gown and wearing black leather boots are the common clothing of men in the Tang Dynasty, and the toe, round-neck gown and black leather boots are the most popular.

The round-neck gown, also known as the round-neck gown, is a form of clothing in which the upper garment and the lower garment are connected together, and it is connected by Hu.The difference is that the deep garment has cross collars and large sleeves, and the collar, sleeves, and front are all decorated with fringes; The upper clothes are also common clothes for officials.

The round-neck gowns at this time were also called Lanpao and Lanshan. Its most characteristic feature was a horizontal barrel placed on the hem of the traditional gown, hence the name.During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, Emperor Wu of the Northern Zhou Dynasty ordered a horizontal barrel to be added under the robes to symbolize the old system of upper garments and lower garments in ancient times.Tang Zhongshu Ling Ma Zhou once proposed to add flowers under the robe.These are made for antiques.It can be seen from this that under the influence of the traditional culture that pays attention to etiquette and rules, Chinese clothing has a strong inheritance.

25. Did Futou only exist in the Tang Dynasty?
Futou is a major feature of men's first clothes in the Tang Dynasty, also known as "folding the upper scarf", which is a kind of scarf used to wrap the head.As early as the Eastern Han Dynasty, it was popular for men to wrap their heads with scarves and silk.After the Wei and Jin Dynasties, scarves became more popular and almost became the main first clothing for men.In the Northern Zhou Dynasty, this kind of scarf was modified and processed, and four strips, or four corners, were cut out. Two of the straps are tied to the back of the head, and the other two straps are tied to the head, making twists and turns.

The Futou in the early Sui Dynasty basically inherited the system of the Northern Zhou Dynasty, but with a full black ropa facing backwards, which is relatively simple and relatively short in appearance.From the end of the Sui Dynasty, a "scarf" was added under the Futou to buckle the hairdo and wrap it inside the Futou. Its function was equivalent to a wig, so that the Futou could be wrapped in a fixed shape.

The two feet of Futou have different shapes in different periods.In the early stage, it looks like two belts, which hang down naturally from the back of the head, or to the neck or to the shoulders.Afterwards, the feet were gradually shortened, and sometimes the feet were bent upwards and inserted into the knot behind the head. This style was more common in the middle Tang Dynasty.Because the feet of these Futou are made of light and soft materials, they are collectively called "soft-footed Futou".

The emperors of the Five Dynasties often used the "Chaotian Futou" with their feet upturned.At this time, officials from all over the country created many new styles, some with feet upturned and then folded down, some in the form of banana leaves, some like round fans, some with lacquered gauze, and some with the feet of the Futou widened left and right. There are more than one foot, named "Dragon Horn", some are one foot long left and right, forming a straight horizontal line, no longer upturned, etc.So far, the general form of the Futou has been basically determined.

26. Is cloud shoulder a kind of clothing?
Cloud shoulders are an important costume in ancient times.Aristocratic women have been seen wearing cloud shoulders in the murals of the Tang Dynasty in Dunhuang, and there were already cloud shoulders in Guanyin Township in the Sui Dynasty.In the Yuan Dynasty, cloud shoulders became more popular. Aristocratic men and women used the "Sihe Ruyi" large cloud shoulders, and it was designated as the style of officials and riches. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, it was only used by women.

The main function of cloud shoulders is to enhance the decoration of the shoulders and highlight the head and face, but the actual function is very small.After the Qing Dynasty, cloud shoulders have disappeared from daily clothing, but women still use cloud shoulders in grand occasions such as wedding banquets and funerals, becoming a symbol of traditional dresses.During the period of the Republic of China, only rural brides kept cloud shoulders in their wedding attire.Today, cloud shoulders can only be seen in dramas.

27. What is the eight-treasure pattern?

The weaving, dyeing and clothing in ancient my country generally paid attention to the auspiciousness of the patterns.During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, clothing patterns such as "eight treasures" and "eight auspiciousness" were popular to symbolize good luck. "Eight Treasure Pattern" is to select eight kinds of auspicious patterns from coral branches, gold and silver ingots, ten thousand volumes of books, rhinoceros horns, double victories, ancient coins, orbs, Ruyi heads, autumn leaves, and conchs, etc., with blessings The meaning of seeking auspiciousness. The "Eight Auspicious" clothing patterns are mainly composed of eight auspicious patterns, such as the umbrella, the sky cover, the lotus, the double fish, the pan length, the Falun, and the conch, which symbolize good luck.

The reason why ancient people often used "eight" objects to match pictures is because ancient people used "eight" to symbolize the entire time and space of up, down, left, right, east, west, south and north. The pattern of "eight auspiciousness" symbolizes the "auspiciousness of the eight directions" and the "treasure of the eight sides".

28. What is the meaning of the group flowers

Tang, Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties were very popular with group flowers, that is, various group-shaped patterns on clothing materials.Lu You, a poet of the Song Dynasty, said in his poem "Miscellaneous Titles in Zhaizhong": "Take the brocade brocade from the west in leisure, and carry the ink flowers from the Southern Tang Dynasty on your back." It seems that the group flower has been popular as early as the Tang and Song Dynasties.

When describing the python robes in the late Qing Dynasty, an ancient book said: There are many names of tuanhua, including two dragons and tuanguang, arched wall-shaped ones, auspicious grasses and tigers, tuanhes and songhes, peonies, and two dragons. The ones playing with pearls include those of Jiangshan Wandai, pine, bamboo and plum, and those with the characters of longevity and longevity. These patterns all have auspicious, good and beautiful meanings.For example, pine, bamboo and plum are used to describe the three friends in cold weather, Songhe and Shou are used to describe longevity and prolong life, and phoenix peonies are used to describe wealth, honor and auspiciousness.

In addition to this kind of group flower, there is also a popular clothing pattern called "Tianxiale", that is, there are ears of grain hanging on both sides of the lantern, and bees are flying under the lantern, implying "five grains (bees) board (lamps)".

29. What is a phoenix crown, what is a Xiapei
The phoenix crown is the most solemn ceremony crown in the women's clothing system in the Ming Dynasty.It is made of wire mesh, decorated with emerald phoenixes, and hung with a crown of jeweled tassels.The origin of the phoenix crown can be traced back to the Qin and Han Dynasties at the earliest, when the phoenix crown had become the prescribed dress for the empress dowager, empress dowager, and empress.There are generally two forms of phoenix crowns in the Ming Dynasty: one is worn by concubines, and there are dragons on the crown besides phoenixes, such as the empress's phoenix crown, decorated with nine dragons and four winds; the other is the colorful crown worn by ordinary women. It is not decorated with dragon wind, but only decorated with flower hairpins, but it is still called phoenix crown by custom.

The prototype of Xiapei first appeared around the Southern and Northern Dynasties. It was shaped like two colored ribbons. When in use, it was wrapped around the head and neck and hung on the chest, with a gold and jade pendant hanging down. This kind of pendant is very similar to the "head face" worn by women of the Yugur nationality in Northwest China.Judging from the regional age and the relationship between contacts, it should be related to the customs of northern ethnic women's clothing.

After the Sui and Tang Dynasties, this kind of pea was used in daily clothes and dance clothes. In Song Dynasty, it was used as etiquette and became an indispensable part of the image of empress and concubine dresses. Because its embroidery patterns are beautiful like rosy clouds, it is named Xiapei.The image of Xiapei can be found in the "Portrait of Emperors and Empresses of Past Dynasties" handed down from generation to generation.Its style is similar to the cape and silk of the Northern and Southern Dynasties and Tang Dynasty.But the Xiapei material is relatively thick and straight, with a slightly wider upper end and a slightly narrower lower end embroidered with cloud and wind patterns. At the sharp corner of the lower end of the Xiapei, there is a round ornament called the pendant.

The Ming Dynasty inherited the Xiapei system of the Song Dynasty, and also used Xiapei for the dresses of married women, and made detailed regulations on the color and pattern decoration. Generally, the Xiapei was worn on the big red sleeve shirt, and it was embroidered in dark blue.The difference of Mingfu crystal level is mainly reflected in the ornamentation: the first crystal and second crystal Mingfu Xiapei are embroidered with Yunxia Zhai pattern (that is, long-tailed pheasant); the third grade and fourth crystal Mingfu are embroidered with Yunxia peacock pattern; the fifth crystal Mingfu is embroidered with Yunxia mandarin duck pattern; The sixth-grade and seven-crystal women embroider clouds and practice magpie patterns; the eight-crystal and nine-crystal women embroider twine patterns.

30. What is the meaning of twelve chapter patterns

The pattern on the mianfu is to paint the sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, and Chinese insects on the clothes, and embroider Zongyi, Zao, Fire, Fenmi, Fu, and Fu on the clothes.Pattern patterns are based on realistic imagination.The implication of the twelve chapter patterns embroidered on clothing is as follows:

Sun: Choose its bright, a round red sun with a black bird or a three-legged bird inside, which symbolizes that the monarchy is illuminated by the Yangde of heaven, giving light to the world and nurturing the growth of all things.

Moon: Whichever is the brightest moon, there is a jade rabbit or a toad or a frog inside. The jade rabbit symbolizes the peace that God bestows on the world; toads or frogs are female, representing fertility.

Stars: Whichever it is, the three blue and white dots are connected with a line to form a three-star pattern, which symbolizes the longitude and latitude of the sky, the seasons of the four seasons, and makes the world know the seven politics ("Shangshu Dazhuan" contains: spring, summer, autumn, winter, astronomy, geography, humanity).

Mountain: Whichever is the most important, symbolizes the respect of the king and comforts the Quartet.

Dragon: choose its god, good at change and able to call wind and rain, which symbolizes that the king is good at change when teaching according to the situation.

Huachong: Take its article (literature, pattern, pattern), Huachong is a pheasant, and it is also said that pheasants have the essence of honesty (integrity), and because of its beautiful patterns, it means that the king has the virtue of writing.

Zongyi: Take its courage, strategy, loyalty, and filial piety. Zongyi is a container for wine in ancient ancestral halls and temples. It is a long-tailed monkey with a large body, yellow and black, and its tail is several feet long).Take the bravery of the tiger, and the loyalty, filial piety and strategy of the hero, to express the meaning of bravery, strategy, loyalty and filial piety.

Algae: Whichever is clean, algae are aquatic plants, which symbolizes cleanliness and cleanliness.

Fire: take its light, which means light, and the flame is upward, leading the crowd to obey the will of heaven.

Fenmi: whichever is used, it is white and can nourish people's lives, which symbolizes the emperor's virtue of helping and supporting the people.

黼: Whichever one is broken, painted in the shape of a golden axe, symbolizing the emperor's decision.

(End of this chapter)