The most interesting folklore

Chapter 10 The most interesting clothing culture (2)
Skirt: The main dress of ancient women.From the time of King Wen of Zhou to the Qin Dynasty, the scope of wearing skirts expanded, and in the Han Dynasty, skirts were more common for women.Skirts began to become the main clothing of ancient women.

Trousers: The main clothing worn by people's lower body, originally written as "丹" or "装".Ancient trousers only had two trouser legs and no front and rear crotches.After the Warring States period, the crotch pants appeared.

13. What are the headdresses of ancient women?
There are also ornaments such as hairpins, hairpins, hairpins, and combs on the heads of ancient women, which can not only fix the bun, but also have a decorative effect.There are many forms of ancient hairpins, made of stone, bamboo, jade, bone, gold, silver and other materials, in the shape of long strips, mainly used to fix hair buns.

Ji is a headgear used to bind hair in ancient times.Ancient women often used hairpins to fix their buns.In ancient times, when a woman reached adulthood, she tied her hair up with a hairpin, so the hairpin also refers to a woman's coming-of-age ceremony. "Rites?"Scholar's Hun Li": "When a woman is married, she is called the word of ceremony." Zheng Xuan's note: "Ji, the gift of a woman, is like the crown of a man."

Hairpins are developed from hairpins. They are long needles used by the ancients to tie hair buns or crowns. They can be made of metal, bone, jade, etc.Later, it specifically refers to jewelry for women's hair.

Hairpin, a kind of jewelry composed of two hairpins crossed together.It is used to tie the hair, and it can also be used to pin the hat on the hair.The thick end of the hairpin is called Fengchai, and the one shaped like a swallow is called Yanchai.There is a difference between hairpins and hairpins. Hairpins are made into one strand, while hairpins are generally made into two strands.

The grate can be used for combing hair and can be inserted into the bun. The poor are mostly made of bamboo and wood, while the rich can be made of gold, silver or ivory.In the Tang and Song Dynasties, women liked to put five or six grates on their heads, mainly for decoration.The grate is different from the comb. The teeth in the middle of the grate are relatively densely spaced, while the teeth of the comb are relatively sparsely spaced.

Ancient women often put silver hairpins on their hair, and there are various hairpin designs.It is generally believed that hairpins play the same decorative role as necklaces, earrings and other jewelry.But in fact, the earliest use of silver hairpins was for women to carry them with them as self-defense weapons. In many ethnic groups in China, hairpins have this purpose. For example, women of the Li nationality use silver hairpins as amulets because they think Evil spirits are afraid of weapons, utensils and ornaments made of silver, copper, iron, tin and other metals.At the beginning, Hakka rural women carried some short and sharp iron tools with them for self-defense. Because the hairpins were placed on the hair, it was convenient to deal a fatal blow to the opponent in an emergency, so they gradually changed to hairpins made of silver.

14. Was the Chinese clothing system established in the Han Dynasty?

China's complete clothing system was established in the Han Dynasty.The rapid development of dyeing and weaving techniques, embroidery techniques and metal techniques in the Han Dynasty promoted the changes in clothing decoration.

In the 200 years of the Western Han Dynasty, the "deep clothing system" was implemented for clothing, which was characterized by a cicada-like crown, red clothes, a field-shaped collar, and red shoes.The shape of the deep garment is that the upper garment and the lower garment are connected and sewn together. The middle garment for sacrificial clothing should have a black border, and the middle garment for court clothing should have a red border.

In the Eastern Han Dynasty, wearing black clothes must be accompanied by purple silk decorations. There are not many men wearing dark clothes. They are generally straight-leg clothes, but they cannot be used as formal dresses.This kind of clothing is long and wide, and there is basically no difference in style between officials and civilians, but in terms of materials and colors, it can clearly show the difference in grade.The history books list more than [-] kinds of dresses, court clothes, and regular clothes for the emperor and his officials, and the grade differences on the vats are already very obvious.

Working women in the Han Dynasty always wore short jackets on top, long skirts on the bottom, and long hanging belts on their knees.The common clothes of laboring men are jackets on the upper body, calf-nosed trousers on the lower body, and a sarong around the clothes. This kind of attire is the same for labor slaves, serfs, merchants, and scholars.

What are the ornaments of women in the Han Dynasty? The ornaments of women in the Han Dynasty are also gorgeous and colorful, including combs, crowns, neck ornaments, arm ornaments, and finger rings.

① Comb: refers to a kind of decoration that inserts a comb or grate on the head.This kind of decoration has appeared in ancient China, and it has also appeared in many dynasties.

② Step-shaking crown: flower-vine-shaped and tree-shaped gold ornaments on the top of the crown, which can be shaken when walking.

③ Necklace: A necklace made of agate beads was unearthed from the Western Han Tomb in Hepu, Guangxi.An exquisitely processed gold necklace was unearthed from the Eastern Han Tomb at Wuli Pai in Changsha, Hunan Province. It consists of 193 gold beads in three different shapes and a gold pendant in the shape of a flower spike.

④ Arm ornaments: The arm ornaments of the Han Dynasty discovered today are mainly jade rings and gold, silver, and copper bracelets from the Western Han Dynasty unearthed from the tombs of the Dian kings in Shizhai Mountain, Jinning, Yunnan Province.Unearthed from Lijiashan, Jiangchuan, Yunnan, there are copper inlaid turquoise bracelets.Unearthed from the Eastern Han Dynasty Tomb at Wuli Pai in Changsha, Hunan Province, there is a rope-shaped bracelet made of many fine gold threads intertwined.

⑤ Rings: During the Han Dynasty, rings were made of gold and silver. Many objects were unearthed in Changsha and Liling in Hunan, Guangzhou and Zengcheng in Guangdong.

15. What are the main names of crowns in the Han Dynasty?
The crown and hat are one of the important signs to distinguish the difference between grades.There are many titles of crowns in the Han Dynasty. "Book of the Later Han Dynasty?According to Yufu Zhi, the crowns of the Han Dynasty include: Mianguan, Changguan, Weimaoguan, Pibian, Juebian, Tongtianguan, Yuanyouguan, Gaoshanguan, Faguan, Wuguan, Jianhuaguan, Qiaotuguan, There are as many as 20 kinds such as Qufei crown, Quedi crown, Fan Kuai crown and Warlock crown.Here are just a few.

① long crown.A sacrificial crown, with bamboo skin as the skeleton, covered with a kind of yarn, the top of the crown is flat, narrow and long.

② Tongtian crown.The crown ornaments with iron wire as the beam, framed with fine silk cloth, and decorated with "mountain" and "shu" attachments appeared in the Warring States Period, from Qin to Han, through Tang and Song Dynasties, and continued to be used until Ming Dynasty.Nine inches high in the Han Dynasty, the emperor wore this crown and coronation board.The emperor often wears it on occasions such as the moon is full of officials and congratulations.

③Travel crown.The shape is like a crown to the sky, with a stretching tube horizontally in front and no mountain description.There are five seasons of clothing worn by the kings that are commonly used, namely spring green, summer red, season summer yellow, autumn white, and winter black.In the Western Han Dynasty, there were four seasons clothes, spring green, summer red, autumn yellow, and winter soap.

④ Jinxian crown.The Jinxian crown is a crown of scholars with a height of seven inches in the front, three inches in the back and eight inches in length.The length here is the length of the hat beam, and the number of beams is used to distinguish the high and low status, civil servants and princes Sanliang, doctors Erliang, petty officials below the doctorate and private students Yiliang.The hat beam is connected to the hat brim which is seven inches high in the front and three inches high in the back, forming a slope with a high front and a low rear.

⑤ crown.It is worn by law enforcement officials, also known as Xiezhi crown.Xiezhi is a legendary unicorn that can distinguish between right and wrong, right and wrong. During the Spring and Autumn Period, the king of Chu liked him for his discernment, so he used its physical characteristics as a crown decoration.After Qin conquered Chu, he bestowed this kind of crown decoration on Yushi, and it became the crown decoration of law enforcement officers.

⑥Wu Guan.Wuguan is a ritual crown worn by military officials at all levels or attendants and eunuchs following the emperor.Wubian big crown: also known as Zhao Huiwen Gongguan, is a kind of Wuguan in the Qin and Han Dynasties; cuckoo tail crown: a cuckoo tail is inserted on the left and right sides of the crown.This crown is mostly used by military officials such as Taiwei (the highest official in charge of military affairs in the Qin and Han Dynasties) and Wei Wei (the official who commanded guards to guard the palace in the Han Dynasty).

16. What happened to the golden jade dress
Jade clothing refers to the funeral clothes woven from jade pieces worn by ancient emperors and nobles after their death.According to the different materials used in weaving, it can be divided into three types: gold-threaded jade clothes, silver-threaded jade clothes and copper-threaded jade clothes.According to relevant documents, the emperors of the Han Dynasty wore gold-threaded jade clothes after their death, and other nobles wore silver-threaded jade clothes and copper-threaded jade clothes according to their status.

So far, archaeological discoveries in our country have found 9 jade garments with golden strands, of which the two unearthed from the Han Tomb in Lingshan, Mancheng County, Hebei Province in 1968 are the most well-preserved.The golden hazel jade garment looks like a human body and is divided into five parts: head, jacket, trousers, gloves and shoes, all of which are made of jade pieces and then woven with gold thread.The jade clothes unearthed from the Mancheng Han tomb were worn by the son of Liu Qi, Emperor Jing of the Western Han Dynasty, Liu Sheng, King Jing of Zhongshan, and his wife Dou Wan, and are now stored in the Hebei Provincial Institute of Cultural Relics.The excavation of the "Golden Jade Clothes" from the Han Tombs in Mancheng filled in the incompleteness of such items in previous archaeological excavations, and provided valuable material materials for the study of the funeral system of the Han Dynasty.The complex production process of the "Golden Jade Clothes" reflects the superb level of jade craftsmanship at that time, and also provides a correct dating basis for the study of jade history.

In addition, in 1970, a silver-threaded jade garment was found in the tomb of Liu Gong's descendant in Pengcheng, Xuzhou City in the Eastern Han Dynasty, and it is now stored in the Nanjing Museum.

A total of 12 copper-threaded jade garments have been discovered so far, all dating from the middle of the Western Han Dynasty to the late Eastern Han Dynasty.What are the characteristics of Wei and Jin clothing? Although Wei and Jin clothing retains the basic form of the Han Dynasty, there are unique and prominent features in terms of style. This is closely related to the creative ideas of art crystals and handicrafts at that time. Sex is more obvious.

Persian patterns and patterns were introduced to China through the "Silk Road" in the sixth century A.D., which had a considerable impact on textiles, clothing and other decorations at that time, resulting in changes in hierarchical clothing and a great blend of ethnic clothing.During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, it was stipulated that red was worn in the palace, purple was often worn, and white was worn by ordinary people.At this time, the clothes are still mainly waxy and skirts, and fur is informal clothes.In the Jin Dynasty, in addition to the scarves that were used by the society, men with official positions also wore small crowns, and the lacquer sarong crown with a gauze cap was originally made by warriors in the Han Dynasty. Later, it was not only used by male officials. , It is also popular among the people, and it is unisex.

The crown and hat have been replaced by the scarves used by literati, such as folded corner scarves, water chestnut scarves, purple lun scarves, white lun scarves and so on.

17. What are the auspicious ornaments of the ancients?
The ancients of our country paid great attention to wearing auspicious jewelry, which was popular not only among ethnic minorities, but also among the Han people. People wanted to use these ornaments to ward off disasters and avoid evil spirits and seek well-being.

Han people wear many kinds of ornaments, including sachets, flower belts, anklets, bracelets, earrings, rings, hairpins, cap flowers, necklaces, dragon and phoenix crowns, brooches, etc. Most of the jewelry is made of gold, silver, jade, emerald, etc. made.People think that these things are valuable and can ward off evil spirits. Children often wear "longevity locks" to seek health and longevity.

Miao women like to wear silver ornaments. There is a kind of silver horn ornament that is more than one meter long. On its front, there are auspicious patterns such as "two dragons grabbing treasure" and "two winds facing the sun", symbolizing wealth and auspiciousness.

Tibetan women like to hang necklaces on their chests with small Buddha statues or fetishes inside. They believe that wearing these things can get the blessing of the gods and turn bad luck into good luck.Children of the Dong nationality often wear silver "arhat hats". Generally, there are two layers of decoration on the brim of the hat, with eighteen arhats embedded in the upper layer and eighteen plum blossoms embedded in the lower layer.They believe that if children wear arhat hats, evil spirits and monsters will not dare to disturb them, so that children can grow up healthily.Yao women have a lot of decorations, including hairpins, brooches, phoenix crowns, earrings, collars, rings, bracelets, etc. Most of the jewelry they wear is silver, because they believe that silver symbolizes light and righteousness, and can make evil spirits fear. Make the wearer safe and auspicious.

19. Why did women in ancient times like to wear ears?
There are many modern women who wear earrings to show their beauty. This love of beauty has evolved from the custom of thousands of years, but the ancient women wore pearls and jade, which are collectively called earrings.

Filling as an ornament has a long history, probably dating back to the primitive period.Although people in primitive society are accustomed to sharing objects (including people), they often show off their own abilities.Men often hang the horns or teeth of wild animals on their bodies to show their might; women wear the fruits of their labor on their heads to show their beauty.Later, some jade and metal devices appeared, and women used them to make ornaments to dress themselves up.Filling is the brightness of these accessories, nitrogen.

Some people say that tata is loved by women, but it originally came from the cruelty of women in slave society.It is said that in ancient times, women were allowed to be bought and sold like livestock. In order to prevent the bought women from escaping, the slave owners forcibly put iron rings or other objects on the women's ears.Who would have thought that these things would produce unexpected effects when worn on women's ears, making people look more aesthetically pleasing.Some noble ladies also imitated, embellishing pearls, jade, etc. in their ears.

Filling can heighten the beauty of women, which is an objective factor for filling being popular in the world.But things are not so simple, in different times, it also has different connotations.There are data to prove that in the Han Dynasty of our country, only queens, concubines and noble ladies could wear them, and ordinary women should not get involved easily.

Some folklore experts also believe that the earliest appearance of filling block did not come from the Huaxia women in the Central Plains, but from some minority women in the south.Later, the scholar-bureaucrats of the Huaxia nationality in the Central Plains borrowed the padding and put it on the ears of their wives.At this time, the body is a symbol of women's virtue, and its external beauty has been sharply reduced.

It seems that the root of the stuff that ancient women loved is quite complicated.

19. Are clogs shoes made of wood?
Clogs are wooden shoes.In the age of ancient legends, clogs were invented.When Dayu was controlling the water, he nailed wooden stakes on the soles of his shoes when he encountered mountain roads, which should belong to a form of clogs.

According to legend, in the Spring and Autumn Period, Chonger, the son of the Jin State, wandered abroad for 19 years due to domestic turmoil. After returning to the country and taking the throne, he rewarded those who had shared the joys and sorrows with him.But Jie Zhitui refused to accept the salary, hid in the mountains, and repeatedly urged him to come out of the mountain.Unable to do so, Duke Wen set fire to the mountain, thinking that he could be forced out of office, but Jie Zhitui hugged a tree and burned him to death.Afterwards, Duke Wen felt sorry for it, so he made clogs out of the tree as a souvenir.

In the Six Dynasties, it became a fashion for nobles and dignitaries to wear clogs, and the height of clogs was increased.

In the Song Dynasty, the elders in Bianjing generally wore clogs, and when ladies got married, colored clogs were indispensable in the dowry.

20. What are the color systems of official uniforms in ancient times?
Official uniforms began to be worn in different colors, starting from the Tang Dynasty. Generally, purple robes with three crystals or above wear gold fish bags;Officials with high positions but low crystal ranks must still wear the original crystal.If he is a prime minister but not below the third grade, his official title must be given a purple gold fish bag, and the governor of the state will wear scarlet robes regardless of his rank.This kind of clothing color system was not completely abolished until the Qing Dynasty, and only the top of the hat and the supplementary clothing were graded.

In short, the official uniforms of the Qing Dynasty were blue in principle, and only used in crimson during celebrations. The outer coats were usually red and blue, and black was used for plain clothing.

21. How did ancient people make up
Make-up as a method of beauty has existed since ancient times.In the pre-Qin period, people already knew how to make up, and in the Qin Dynasty, some people used to draw eyebrows and paint red on the face to make up.After the Han Dynasty, women's make-up was very common, and make-up crystals also developed accordingly.At that time, not only cosmetic powders could be made, but also pigments could be produced specially.

With the development of society, some aristocratic women are no longer satisfied with ordinary makeup. They paint various patterns on their faces, or paste emerald beads and gold platinum carvings on their faces as "makeup". .Most of the patterns and patterns pasted on the makeup are on the forehead, between the eyebrows, on the cheeks, and on the sideburns, and are called Huauran or Huazi.This kind of makeup was most popular in the late Tang Dynasty.

Make-up was popular among women in Tang Dynasty, and many names of make-up appeared, such as reminder make-up, red make-up, Xiao make-up, drunk make-up, tear make-up, peach blossom make-up, fairy moth make-up, blood halo make-up and so on.

In ancient times, most of the makeup people were aristocratic women. Most of the makeup was done with the help of maidservants. It usually took a while, sometimes it took half a day to finish, while folk women mostly did their makeup carefully when they got married.

22. When did the skirt appear?

Skirts have been around since the invention of textile technology.According to ethnological data, as early as in the primitive society, people surrounded the lower body with a piece of square cloth, which can be regarded as the initial shape of the skirt.

In the Wei and Jin Dynasties, both men and women generally wore skirts.In the Jin Dynasty, there were many kinds of skirts, such as red gauze double skirt, Danbi gauze double skirt and Zibi gauze embroidered tassel double skirt.

After the Tang Dynasty, skirts gradually became a special decoration for women, and often became synonymous with women, such as "skirts".

In the late Yuan Dynasty, women took plain as the popular color of skirts.

In the Ming Dynasty, pleated long skirts were the main style, and red was popular.

After the Manchurian customs, cheongsam became fashionable for a while.However, Han women still wear skirts as dresses. Whenever there are weddings and funerals, or visits by relatives and friends, even those who usually only wear short jackets and trousers should wear a long skirt over the trousers, so as not to be considered impolite or not grand enough.

"Being prostrate under the pomegranate skirt" is a common saying that refers to a man falling in love with a romantic woman.The origin of this proverb is related to Tang Minghuang and Yang Guifei.

It is said that Concubine Yang liked pomegranates very much. For this reason, Tang Minghuang planted many pomegranates near Huaqing Palace for her to watch.Tang Minghuang liked to see Concubine Yang drunk after drinking, and often got her drunk to appreciate her charming appearance.The pomegranate can sober up, so Tang Minghuang often peeled the pomegranate and fed it to Concubine Yang after watching it.The ministers of the DPRK and China couldn't see this very much, and complained to Concubine Yang Guifei every day, and Concubine Yang Guifei was very unhappy about it.

One day, Tang Minghuang invited his ministers to a banquet, and invited Concubine Yang Guifei to play music.Concubine Yang Guifei deliberately broke a string when the melody was playing at its most exciting, so that the melody could not be played any longer.Tang Minghuang hurriedly asked what was the reason, and Concubine Yang took the opportunity to say that because the minister who listened to the music was disrespectful to her, and the god who composes the music, she complained, so she broke the string.

Tang Minghuang believed her words very much, so he made a decree: From now on, no matter the general or minister, anyone who sees the concubine must kneel and worship, otherwise he will be killed.From then on, when the ministers saw Concubine Yang Guifei, they fell to the ground in fear and fear.

Because Concubine Yang always likes to wear skirts embroidered with pomegranates, those ministers used the words "prostrate to the pomegranate skirt" to joke in private.

23. What are the eyebrow decorations of women in the Tang Dynasty?

Tang female thrushes are in various poses and with different expressions.Women in the Tang Dynasty thickened their eyebrows with blue and black pigments, which was called "Dai Mei".

(End of this chapter)