The most interesting folklore

Chapter 9 The most interesting clothing culture (1)
1. The team of the Chinese nation is the sole cause of yellow

In the minds of Chinese people, yellow is supreme, which has been proven in thousands of years of history.People are most impressed by the phrase "yellow robe plus body".The one who wears the yellow robe becomes the emperor of the real dragon. Song Taizu Zhao Kuangyin was not qualified to sit on the throne of the emperor when he was not wearing the yellow robe.The soldiers of the Yellow Turban Uprising Army all wore yellow scarves on their heads. Their slogan said: "The sky is dead, and the yellow sky should stand." At this time, the sky is "yellow", which has nothing to do with other colors.Later, all dynasties paid special respect to yellow, and only emperors could paint the edge of yellow, and other people were not allowed to use yellow.During the Yongzheng period of the Qing Dynasty, Nian Gengyao made outstanding achievements, but he was sentenced to death, including using yellow baggage without permission and filling roads with loess when he went out.Yellow has finally become the ruler's monopoly crystal, and finally the subjects of the yellow world have a special admiration for yellow.

So, why does the Chinese nation insist on advocating yellow?Scholars analyze this from an academic (rather than political) perspective.Some people have suggested that yellow is a neutral color, which is between black, white, red and orange, and is the central color of all colors.This neutral color is consistent with the character of the Chinese nation, so it was chosen as a noble color.

In addition, China has been an agricultural society since ancient times, and people regard the land as the foundation, while the Chinese nation has lived on the Loess Plateau for generations, and has a deep attachment and respect for the loess land. This reverence is also a kind of yellow complex.Chinese people are born as descendants of Yan and Huang, and when they leave, they will go to Huangquan, and they will be accompanied by yellow all their lives.

2. The "popular colors" of clothing in the past dynasties are a bit louder
In the history of our country, the earliest colors used were black, white, earth red and ocher, and red was the earliest "popular color".In slavery society, blue, red, white, black, and yellow are considered to represent the five square colors of east, south, west, north, center and wood, fire, gold, water, and earth.In the feudal era, yellow symbolized holiness, authority, solemnity, a symbol of wisdom and civilization, and became the exclusive color of the emperor. No ordinary person was allowed to wear yellow clothes.In my country, black was popular in the Xia Dynasty, white was popular in the Yin Dynasty, and red was popular in the Zhou Dynasty, and this color was given an orthodox status.

During the Spring and Autumn Period, purple was popular in the state of Qi, and Duke Huan of Qi wore a purple robe, so the price of purple textile crystals soared tenfold.Confucius, who always believed that scarlet was orthodox, hated purple.The reason is that it took away the orthodox status of vermilion since the Zhou Dynasty.Qin Shihuang thought that he was the world's water virtue, and advocated the use of black.However, Emperor Gaozu of the Han Dynasty raised his troops from the south and won the victory. It was Huode Xingbang, and he advocated wearing red.

In the Sui Dynasty, white ground was matched with cyan and green to make it look calm and quiet.The society in the Tang Dynasty was prosperous, and the colors were colorful and magnificent.

In the Song Dynasty, they also liked cool colors such as blue and green, and turned to the direction of simplicity and elegance.In the Yuan Dynasty, gold and silver were widely used.

In the Ming Dynasty, there were strong colors such as crystal blue, sapphire blue, and gold.

In the Qing Dynasty, it was fashionable to imitate Tang and Song.But it is different, the color is more complex and gorgeous.

3. What is the crown uniform system in China?

According to the analysis of literature and unearthed cultural relics, the Chinese crown clothing system was initially established about after the Xia and Shang Dynasties, and it was gradually perfected in the Zhou Dynasty, resulting in a complete crown clothing system. Clothes are named according to different hats.Guanfu is divided into the following categories: Mianfu, Bianfu, Xuanduan, Shenyi, Qiufu, Mingfufu, etc.

Among them, mianfu belongs to the highest level in the crown clothing system. It is the clothing worn by the emperor, princes, and doctors when they go to court and participate in major events.According to the records of "Zhou Li·Chun Guan", there were six kinds of mianfu in the Zhou Dynasty: Daqiu, Dagon Mian, Glance (Wool) Mian, Wu Mian, Ti (Greek) Mian and Xuan Mian.Bianfu is the crown clothing second only to the mianfu. It is the attire of the emperor and princes at ordinary times.

From then on, there was a difference in the service system between the princes and scholars at the top, and the common people at the bottom.This can be seen from the bronze inscriptions of this period and the "Book of Songs", "The Analects of Confucius" and other records. The Zhou Dynasty not only had a clothing system, but also had a special post of "Secretary Fu" who was in charge of the implementation of the clothing system and arranged for the emperor and nobles. wear.In the late Zhou Dynasty, the slave system gradually disintegrated, and the feudal society gradually formed. The crown and clothing system was included in the category of "ritual system" and became a manifestation of etiquette.

4. What are the Benfu of the Zhou Dynasty?
In the Zhou Dynasty, in addition to Mianfu, there were Bianfu, Yuanduan, Shenyi, Robe, Qiu and so on.Benfu is a kind of clothing second only to Mianfu in ancient times.The shape of the Bian crown is sharp and small at the top, and wide at the bottom, like the shape of two hands of a person, which is similar to pictographs.Bian was worn by the sons of the day to scholars, and in the Zhou Dynasty, Mian and Bian were gradually divided into superiority and inferiority, that is, Mian was superior and Bian was inferior.In ancient times, there were mainly three types of Bian: Wei Bian, Pi Bian, and Guan Bian. Together with the six kinds of mianfu, they were called "Six Mian and Three Bian".

(1) Wei Bian
Wei Bian is one of the ancient ritual crowns.Wei Bianfu is the clothing worn by princes and officials engaged in war and war activities.Its crown is light vermilion in color and shaped like a leather bean.Wei Bian is also the head dress of the army's archery uniforms, such as the emperor, the minister, and the doctor performing the archery ceremony in Piyong (also known as "Biyong"), etc. It was originally a university established by the emperor of the Western Zhou Dynasty to educate the children of nobles. Take the surrounding Water is named after its shape like a wall ring. There are five schools of thought, Chengjun in the south, Shangxiang in the north, Dongxu in the east, Guzong in the west, and Piyong in the middle. Pibian.Because the white buckskin bian is the typical example, the ancestors who valued the harmonious color matching of clothing should wear white clothes when wearing the leather bian. This set of fixed collocations is often used in military etiquette such as shooting ceremonies.This set of Pibian clothing is called Pibian Sujifu.

(2) Pibian
The leather bean is used to listen to the government in front of the court. It is made of white deerskin, and the seams of the leather are embellished with pearls and gemstones. Among them, the emperor decorated the seams of the crown with twelve multicolored jades. "Zhou Li Xia Guan Bian Master": "Wang Zhipi Bian, can pick five (color) jade Jin (qf, jade decoration at the seam of ancient leather goods), Xiangdi (d1) jade ji." It can be translated as : "The emperor's skin is decorated with colorful jade in the seam of the hat, the elephant bone is the tire, and the jade is the hairpin."

(3) Guanbian
Guanbian is the emperor's field hunting attire, with a leather hat on top of the crown.Field hunting in ancient times was a productive activity with military significance and was related to sacrifices.There are a large number of field hunting records in the oracle bone inscriptions of the Shang Dynasty, and the prey obtained include mince, deer, rabbit, si, and fox.The Shang Dynasty was already a society dominated by agriculture, and field hunting was no longer a means of production for the purpose of making a living, especially in the Zhou Dynasty.According to the literature records, the functions of field hunting are as follows: one is to remove pests from the field; the other is to provide sacrifices to the ancestral temple;

6. Is Yuanduan ancient ceremonial clothing?

In addition to mianfu and huifu, Yuanduan and Shenyi are the most frequently used dresses in daily life.Yuanduan (also known as Xuanduan) is a dress that can be worn from the emperor down to the scholars. It can also be used as the emperor's Yanju clothing. It is used when meeting parents, that is to say, Yuan Duan is the ceremonial clothing of officials and sages.Yuanduan was the legal service of the country in the Zhou Dynasty.The so-called "Yuan Duan" means correctness. Its color is purple, and its sleeves are all square two feet two inches long and two feet two inches wide.This is again due to traditional Chinese thought.China has always paid attention to doing things according to rules. Everything must have a model and a model, and it cannot be surpassed at will. As the saying goes, there is no rule without rules, which has influenced Chinese clothing for thousands of years.

6. What is imperial clothing and auspicious clothing
Court clothes are the dresses worn by the monarchs and ministers in court meetings in ancient times, and they are also worn when grand ceremonies are held.Different systems of respect and inferiority, different systems of past dynasties.Sima Xiangru's "Shanglin Fu": "So (the Son of Heaven) fasted on auspicious days, dressed in court clothes, and drove by the law."

Auspicious clothes are second only to court clothes, and it is a kind of clothing worn by people of higher rank.Wearing this kind of robe, the emperor is called dragon robe, which is bright yellow, and the prince is golden yellow. The prince is second only to the prince and is a member of the royal family, so he wears blue or stone blue.

7. Did the ancients wear swords for war?

The sword is not only used in the battlefield, but also the adornment weapon loved by the ancient Chinese.During the Zhou, Qin, Han and Tang Dynasties for more than 2000 years, the style of saber has been prevalent.

From the Western Zhou Dynasty to the Spring and Autumn Period, swords were mainly used for self-defense.In addition, hanging a sword around the waist is also a symbol of status. Only nobles can wear swords, and others are not allowed to carry swords.After the Warring States period, the sword became longer, and the sword of Qin State became longer. The longer sword is good for actual combat, but it is inconvenient to pull it out from the scabbard. When Jing Ke assassinated King Qin, Qin Shihuang almost died because the sword could not be pulled out.

After the Eastern Han Dynasty, in the battle on the battlefield, the sword has been replaced by the sword, but it is still indispensable as a decorative sword.In the Jin Dynasty, dignitaries even used wooden swords and jade swords as ornaments.During the Sui and Tang dynasties, swords were divided into gold swords, blue jade swords, single swords, and double swords.Because of the prevalence of the sword, "book sword" has become an indispensable embellishment in the poems and proses of literati, and there are still many good lines about swords in modern poems.The ancients attached great importance to the ornaments on their bodies, not only to beautify their own appearance, but also to mark their status.Jade is the most important ornament.

The jade worn by the ancients mainly includes ring, heng, huang, ju, glass (y6), block and so on.Jade is originally a kind of precious ornament, which is exclusive to the rich and powerful, but in the slave society and feudal society, the rulers attached a mysterious moral color to wearing jade.In ancient literary works, the artificial color of jade is not emphasized. When it comes to adoring jade, it is used to highlight the nobility of characters or the beauty of the environment.

8. When did the ancients start wearing rings?

In China, the use of rings has a history of at least 2000 years.Judging from a large number of documents, during the Qin and Han Dynasties, women in our country generally wore rings.The ring has a different name "ring", and it is called "Yuezhi", "Notes", "Daizhi" and so on in history books.Women wear rings not only to show off their beauty, but also to be vigilant, which plays a role of prohibition.

The ring is a special symbol used by concubines and concubines in the court to avoid taboos. When they are pregnant or otherwise unable to approach the king, they put a gold ring on their left hand to forbid the emperor's "good luck". Usually, they use a silver ring. , set in the right hand.When the ring is passed down to the people, its function is not only a simple decoration. Men and women love each other and give each other gifts.

9. How did the traditional clothing system come into being?

As early as the age of myths and legends in our country, ancient humans had already created clothes. "easy?"Xi Ci" said: "Yellow Emperor Yao and Shun hung their clothes and ruled the world." "Shiben" said: "Bo Yu made clothes" and "Hu Cao made clothes". "White Tiger Tongyi?"Clothes" also records: "In the ancient times, the clothes and skins could cover the front but not the back."

Regarding the initial style of clothes, a complete piece of animal skin is generally draped over the shoulders and back, or tied around the lower body.Later, people pierced a hole in the center of the animal skin, or cut a hole on one side, and put it around the neck or draped over the shoulders. This is the earliest "pullover" and cloak.This style of clothing can still be seen in some ethnic minority areas decades ago.

At first, human beings used fur to surround the abdomen and knees first, then covered the back, and then connected the front and back with bone needles and sewed them together, thus becoming the earliest "skirt".The tube skirts of some minority women in southern my country can be said to have retained the legacy of the ancient "skirts".In ancient Chinese legends, there is a saying that the Xiling family, the concubine of the Yellow Emperor, taught the people to raise silkworms. There are also records of Gongsi in "Yu Gong".According to the existing archaeological materials, there are silk fabrics in the Yin and Shang Dynasties, and the oracle bone inscriptions also contain hieroglyphs such as clothes, clothes, and silk, which can prove that the materials and shapes of clothing at that time have become more abundant.It can be said that about 5000 years ago, my country had already formed a relatively complete clothing system in which the upper body has clothes and the lower body has clothes.

This clothing system is divided into two basic forms: upper garment and lower garment and one-piece garment.Upper garment and lower garment: The upper garment is generally composed of collar, placket, back body, sleeves, belt and other parts.The lower skirt is the skirt. In ancient times, both men and women used skirts. Later, skirts gradually became women's special clothing.Clothes system has gradually become the basic form of traditional clothing in our country.

10. Why Shangxialianshang is also called "Shenyi"

The upper and lower clothing system is also called "deep clothing system".The so-called "shen clothing" refers to a kind of clothing with the upper garment and the lower garment connected together in ancient times. It was often worn by the princes, doctors, and scholars in ancient times, and it was also the ordinary dress of the common people.Why is this style called "deep clothing"?Kong Yingda of the Tang Dynasty explained it in his "Five Classics of Justice": "Shenyi, the clothes are connected, and the body is deep, so it is called Shenyi."

Shenyi originated in the pre-Qin period. Although it is a long garment, the Chinese ancestors cut the upper garment and the lower garment separately and then sewed them together in order to abide by the clothing system that separates the upper and lower garments. respect.

Deep clothing is first of all dresses, especially women's dresses.The dresses worn by women today are also the development of ancient deep clothes.

The deep coat consists of the following parts:

Front: Refers to the front panel of the garment.

Cross collar right lapel: Cross refers to the standard neckline style of Hanfu, and right lapel means that the collar is tied to the right side of the body.The direction cannot be reversed, and the left lapel is the style of clothes worn by foreign races or the dead.

Dispel: cuff.

Chang: skirt.

Train: A skirt pattern formed by wrapping around a garment.

Shenyi has inherited the ancient meaning of the Chinese dress system, and at the same time it is convenient and beautiful. It can be used as a regular dress or a formal dress. The formality of the dress is second only to the dress made of clothes. Can be worn with deep clothing, it is a very practical clothing.

11. When did pants appear?
According to ancient books, trousers existed in the Han Dynasty, and people called them "poor dudes" at that time.According to "Hanshu?"Biography of Foreign Relatives" records that the empress Shangguan of Emperor Han Zhao is the granddaughter of the important minister Huo Guang. If there are too many belts, there will be no one who enters the harem."The so-called "poor dude" is noted by Fu Qian: "poor dude has a front and rear (crotch), and no communication." "Poor dude" means pants with front and rear crotch.Huo Guang gave birth to a prince so that Empress Shangguan could be favored by Emperor Zhao of the Han Dynasty alone, in an attempt to prevent Emperor Zhao from getting married with other concubines.It just so happened that Emperor Zhao was not feeling well by accident, and his cronies and imperial physicians all said that the emperor should abstain from sexual intercourse in order to please Huo Guang.So all the beauties in the harem wear "poor dudes" with crotch.The purpose of the flatterers is to set up obstacles for the emperor when he summons other concubines, so that only Shangguan and empress are favored.From this record, we can know that there were trousers in the Han Dynasty.

Judging from the unearthed cultural relics and handed down documents, the early Chinese trousers were all crotch trousers, regardless of gender, and they all had only two trouser legs, no waist and no crotch, and they were only worn on the shin (the calf part below the knee). Also known as "shin clothing".Its purpose is to cover the shins, especially in winter, to keep warm.

Later, the trousers gradually developed from shin coats to trousers that could cover the thighs, but at that time the crotch was still not stitched.Because in addition to the trousers, there are skirts, so opening the crotch is not uncivilized, but also convenient, so this kind of trousers is also called "drowning trousers" in ancient books.

The even trousers passed down to the Central Plains come from the northern minorities.For these nomads who have been riding horses for many years, it is very inconvenient to wear skirts to ride horses.Therefore, they began to wear crotch trousers very early.Roughly after the Warring States Period, King Wuling of Zhao promoted "Hu Fu Riding and Shooting", and the Han people began to wear crotch trousers.

It was not until the late Qing Dynasty that trousers really became the common clothes of Chinese women.Probably in the eyes of ordinary people, the legs are separated, and the slender body of women is exposed, which is not dignified and elegant, so women are restricted from wearing trousers.In the past, girls from good families and girls from brothels could be clearly distinguished by their clothes. The main difference was in their trousers.Short jackets and long trousers can only be worn by women from good families in the bedroom or boudoir, and they are embarrassed to even go out of the room. No matter whether it is cold or hot, as long as they go out of the inner room, they must wear skirts.Prostitutes are just the opposite. No matter how luxurious the materials they wear, they can only be made into short jackets and trousers. They are not allowed to wear skirts, especially red skirts, because wearing red skirts is the exclusive property of the wife of the wife, and no one else can wear them.Therefore, in the old Beijing, there was an allegorical saying that "Yaojieer wears skirts-pretending to be a good person", and Yaojieer is a prostitute. This proverb reflects the difference in clothing customs between women from good families and Yaojie in the past.

12. What kinds of body clothing did the ancients wear?
Body clothing is the most basic and important part of ancient clothing, and it is mainly divided into two basic shapes: upper garment and lower garment, and one-piece garment.Upper garment and lower garment: The upper garment is generally composed of collar, placket, back body, sleeves, belt and other parts.The lower skirt is the skirt. In ancient times, both men and women used skirts. Later, skirts gradually became women's special clothing.The types of clothes worn by the ancients mainly include deep clothes, robes, fur, shirts, jackets, jackets, half-arms, etc. worn on the whole body or only on the upper body;

Deep clothing: produced in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period.Shenyi is the common clothes of people above the "scholar" class and the dress of common people.Its characteristic is that the top and bottom are connected, the front of the skirt is covered on the right, and the hem is not slitted.Because of its deep front and back, it is called Shenyi.

Qiu: fur clothing with fur facing outwards.Monarchs and nobles wear fox fur furs and cover them with coats that match the color of fox fur.Dog and sheep furs are worn by ordinary people, and they are not worn.

Gown: The deep garment with a straight train is further developed into a gown, which is also a long garment in which the upper garment and the lower garment are integrated.There are two kinds of "gowns" in ancient times, one is called "cocoon", which is made of new silk cotton lining; the other is called "team", which is used for cotton lining.From the Eastern Han Dynasty to the Song and Ming Dynasties, from the emperor to the lower officials, all used robes as court clothes.

Shirt: During the Han and Wei Dynasties, a new kind of clothing appeared in the society. The characteristics of this kind of clothing are just the opposite of those of the gown.The gown is mainly cross-collared, while it is mainly straight; the gown is mostly double-layered, but it is a single layer; the sleeves of the gown are arc-shaped, while it is vertical; It is very spacious, and this kind of clothing is called "shirt".

Ru: short jacket.After the Eastern Han Dynasty, it was mainly used for women.It can be used not only as a shirt, but also as a jacket.After the Tang Dynasty, through the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, it has been used as women's casual clothes.

Jacket: A jacket that is longer than the jacket and shorter than the robe, evolved from the jacket.It is lined, so it is also called "jacket".If cotton wool is included in it, it is called "cotton jacket".The jacket appeared around the time of the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, and became popular after the Song Dynasty. In the Qing Dynasty, it almost became the main casual clothing for women of the gentry.

Half-arm: collarless (or lapel), double-breasted (or pullover), worn outside the long-sleeved shirt.The length of the sleeves is half of the long-sleeved clothes, so it is called "half sleeve (half arm)".

(End of this chapter)